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Driving Safety and You......
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wagon r
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:40 pm
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Heads Up for a Safer Journey


We tend to call them headrests, but they have a proper title: head restraints.

And they have an important, if unglamorous, safety role – they protect the driver, and the passengers from a potentially nasty injury.

The problem with calling them headrests is that it makes them sound like some sort of comfort zone for drivers.

During the last 40 years a lot of work has been done to improve passive safety features in the car, from crumple zones to air bags. And if used properly, head restraints can be an important addition.

But there’s the rub: quite often they are ignored. In a recent survey just six per cent of drivers were found to check their head restraint before beginning their journey, or demonstrate that they knew the correct position.

We should take a moment before each journey to check that the top of the head restraint is level with the top of your head. Too high is as bad as too low.

Encourage your passengers to do likewise. A correctly-positioned head restraint may save you, and them, nasty injuries.

In the UK the single most common crash is the rear collision. Many rear impact accidents result in a neck or spinal injury. The head restraint plays a key role in protecting you from injuries, particularly whiplash.

You also need to remember that head restraints can impair vision to the rear, and so should make sure when manoeuvring and reversing that they are not obstructing you.

Not all head restraints are adjustable, but where they are, take care to ensure that they are placed high enough to stop the neck going backwards in the event of a collision. The head restraint should be level with the top of the head for maximum safety. Remember, it is there for your safety, not to help you nod off at the wheel!



info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:55 pm
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Belt up in the Back


Plans to introduce mandatory child seats this year linked to the age of the children have served to remind us how important it is that children have the appropriate restraint.

Check that your car seat has been installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions

Then, each time the child is strapped in, check again that the seat belt securing the seat is still fastened and hasn’t been accidentally tampered with.

A comfortable child is more likely to enjoy the trip, so it is worth checking that the shoulder belt of the seat should lie across the middle of the chest and shoulder, not the neck or throat.

Never tuck the shoulder belt under the children’s arm or behind their back. Where you have a lap belt fitted, it should be low and snug across the thighs, not the stomach. Also try to ensure that your child is small enough to sit against the seat back with the legs bent at the knees and feet hanging down; they should be able to stay in this position comfortably throughout the trip.

Consider using a booster seat where appropriate. Small babies should be placed in an appropriate size baby seat beginning with the first ride home from the hospital. Due to the risk of serious injuries, or even death, it is essential that the rear facing car safety seat is never used in the front seat of a car that has a passenger airbag. Generally the safest place for a child to be is in the back seat.

Children should never be left alone in a car, whether they are in their car safety seats or not.

Temperatures can reach deadly levels in minutes and children have died of heat stroke while locked in the car.

Child locks on the rear doors are a good idea when the children are young and provide you with additional reassurance.



info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.


Last edited by wagon r on Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:00 pm
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A Turn for the Worst

Have you ever found yourself braking in a bend simply because it was sharper than you originally thought? If you have then you should consider how you actually go about assessing the severity of bends, because if you get it wrong, the consequences are potentially serious.

It is not just novice drivers who get caught out on the bends though in the jargon, it is here that most single vehicle accidents take place.

There are a number of clues we can take from the environment to help us. The most obvious are the road signs and markings, but there are other less obvious ones: the line of the trees, hedges, buildings, street lights or telegraph poles (although remember that sometimes telegraph poles run through fields, so dont follow them!).

The actual width of the road can be a factor because the narrower it is, the less space you have to manoeuvre. Skid marks on the road are an indication of past mistakes. The position and speed of other traffic can also provide you with valuable information. Another particularly useful way of assessing a bend is to use the limit point analysis.

The limit point is the furthest point which you can see, i.e. where the left and right hand sides of the road meet. To use this technique simply ask yourself is it getting further away? If it is and you can see further ahead, then your speed should be fine. On the other hand if it is getting closer, then you could continue to reduce speed until the limit point begins to move with you and your view opens up again.

This technique takes a bit of practice but it will help you to link your speed with your range of vision and allow you to stop in the distance seen to be clear.




info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:07 pm
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Don't take on that Tailgater


Drivers who “tailgate” – drive too close to the car in front – are a menace. They probably don’t realise how intimidating their habit is. The most benign interpretation is that they are simply trying to indicate to the guy in front that they want to get past. That’s all very well, if the person in front has somewhere to go – but that isn’t always possible. Other lanes may be busy too, and it isn’t always an option to remove yourself instantly from the path of the tailgater.

Yet statistics tell us the single most common crash in the UK is the classic rear end shunt. So what can we do to avoid it?

The easiest thing to do is remove ourselves from the problem. Aim to change lanes on the motorway or dual carriageway, but only when it is safe to do so. Clearly indicate your intention to pull over. That way you can let the tailgater get past you, even if he or she is driving too fast for the conditions and/or breaking the speed limit.

Don’t be tempted to impose the speed limit on somebody who is clearly hell bent on breaking it.

And if you choose not to let the tailgater past, there is a danger that he will try to “undertake” you, posing an additional risk for other road users.

We are often asked what can you do if you’re being tailgated in a 30mph zone on a single carriageway?

Pulling over here may not be practical either. But do not be intimidated into speeding up just because somebody is right on your back bumper. Instead, create an additional stopping distance between you and the vehicle in front so that you when you do brake, you can do so smoothly.

Think of yourself as adding a little “buffer” zone for the tailgater, whether he appreciates it or not.

When the time comes to brake, you can do so gently, giving a clear signal of your intention via your stop lights. The more time your stop lights are on, the more time the tailgater has to register that and pull back.


info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:31 pm
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How not to Skid


If you are still scraping ice from your windscreen in the morning, the potential danger of ice on the road remains. Ice makes driving particularly hazardous and many drivers are still caught out at this time of year because they fail to “read the road”. Bends, hills and parked vehicles are all suddenly more difficult to negotiate.

What causes a skid? Many people blame poor road conditions, but that isn’t true; a skid is almost always the result of a driver’s actions. If you have ever been in a skid, you will probably remember that you were either changing speed or direction - or both - just before you started skidding.

You have a limited amount of tyre grip available and your vehicle will skid when one or more of the tyres loses normal grip on the road. Using the brakes, accelerator and steering applies a force that can cause a skid if it overcomes the force that keeps the tyres gripped on the road surface. And it takes much less force to break the grip of the tyres on a slippery road surface.

The forces that can break the grip of the tyres on the road and cause a skid are:

- excessive speed for the conditions

- coarse steering combined with a speed that isn’t in itself excessive

- braking suddenly or harshly or heavy acceleration.

Minimise the risk of skidding by taking note of the road and weather conditions. Motorcyclists do this automatically, but car drivers tend to just scrape the windscreen and then set off without acknowledging that the road surface may be less than perfect in places.

When the roads are slippery, use the controls – brakes, steering, and accelerator gently, to avoid skidding: it’s far easier to avoid a skid than correct one. If you do start to skid, your first action should be to remove the cause.

If excessive speed is the cause (it’s the most common one) take your foot off the accelerator and steer smoothly in the direction of the skid until the tyres regain their grip, then steer back onto your intended course. In icy or wet conditions, get into the habit of doubling your normal following distance


info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:44 pm
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Under Pressure, Don't forget Your Tyres


We all know that tyres are among the most unfashionable items on the car. But that doesn’t mean that we should ignore them.

We do so at our peril. Those few square inches of rubber that keep us in contact with the road may only be the size of a credit card. But rain or shine, that is all that comes between the car and the tarmac.

There’s an old saying: the brakes stop the wheels, but the tyres stop the car. It stands to reason that they can’t do that job properly if you ignore them. Yet a recent survey showed that is precisely what we do: seven per cent of motorists admit that they only check their tyre pressures and the tread depth once a year.*

Under-inflated tyres wear far more quickly than they should. Tyre technology means that they are far better engineered than they need be. But that also means that they are expensive things to replace and why run the risk of a blowout in the meantime?

Industry experts claim that a twenty per cent reduction in pressure can shorten a tyres useful life by up to 30 per cent. Tyre waste is a major environmental headache. And checking that the pressure is correct for the car (including the loading) can also make a considerable impact on your fuel bill over the course of the year. The extra drag of neglected tyres will mean that each fuel tank is three per cent less efficient. That wasted fuel means more CO2 in the atmosphere

Don’t be tempted to add a few pounds per square inch. Over inflated tyres can cause poor vehicle handling, reduced stability in braking, cornering and reduced grip.

The IAM recommends that you check your tyres for wear, damage and pressure at least once a month. If you pick up a nail, or damage the sidewall on a pothole or a kerb, you may be able to save the tyre before it’s ruined.



info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 4:30 pm
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When Backwards is Best


In a car park, do you reverse into a parking space and drive out, or drive in and reverse out? The next time you are in a car park, have a look around and see how many people reverse into the space. You will probably find that most people actually drive in and reverse out. There is no doubt this may be safer/more convenient if the spaces are angled, when you have to load/unload items from the boot or if it would cause inconvenience to other road users.

On the other hand, reversing into the space provides you with several advantages. The first of these is that it is safer to reverse into somewhere you can see into (the parking space), rather than reverse out, into somewhere you can’t (the line of moving traffic). Many people find that it takes them a few minutes to settle into “driving mode” when they start their journey. Therefore it doesn’t make sense to undertake a potentially high risk manoeuvre such as reversing when you are not concentrating fully. It is also easier to control a car going forwards, rather than backwards when the car is first started and the automatic choke is activated. The reduction in wear and tear on you and the car is useful too – plus the fact you can pull away immediately while the engine is cold, rather than labour it doing a reversing manoeuvre.

From a security point of view, reversing close to an object such as a wall can make it more difficult for thieves to access your boot. If you need to exit a parking space quickly for personal security, driving out provides you with better acceleration and improved vision.

Over the next week why don’t you try reversing into a parking space? You may find it helpful if you have electric mirrors, to lower your left (nearside) mirror as this will provide you with a guide to your lateral position. Another option where all the spaces run in parallel rows is to line your car up with the space in front and reverse back in a straight line. This should automatically position you in the centre of the space.


info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:43 am
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Heads Up For A Safer Journey


We tend to call them headrests, but they have a proper title: head restraints.

And they have an important, if unglamorous, safety role – they protect the driver, and the passengers from a potentially nasty injury.

The problem with calling them headrests is that it makes them sound like some sort of comfort zone for drivers.

During the last 40 years a lot of work has been done to improve passive safety features in the car, from crumple zones to air bags. And if used properly, head restraints can be an important addition.

But there’s the rub: quite often they are ignored. In a recent survey just six per cent of drivers were found to check their head restraint before beginning their journey, or demonstrate that they knew the correct position.

We should take a moment before each journey to check that the top of the head restraint is level with the top of your head. Too high is as bad as too low.

Encourage your passengers to do likewise. A correctly-positioned head restraint may save you, and them, nasty injuries.

In the UK the single most common crash is the rear collision. Many rear impact accidents result in a neck or spinal injury. The head restraint plays a key role in protecting you from injuries, particularly whiplash.

You also need to remember that head restraints can impair vision to the rear, and so should make sure when manoeuvring and reversing that they are not obstructing you.

Not all head restraints are adjustable, but where they are, take care to ensure that they are placed high enough to stop the neck going backwards in the event of a collision. The head restraint should be level with the top of the head for maximum safety. Remember, it is there for your safety, not to help you nod off at the wheel!


info sourced from Institute of Advanced Motorist.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:48 am
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Proper Driving Position


If you think proper driving position means having your hands positioned at "10 and 2 o'clock" on the steering wheel (as they taught you in driver's-education class), get with the times! You see, automobiles have changed considerably in the past few years... and therefore, so should your driving habits. Relax - the changes are minor, and they can actually increase your driving safety and comfort, which will come in handy on those long road trips.

Nowadays you should:

Sit slightly reclined with your shoulders comfortably back in the seat. Sit as far back from the steering wheel as possible while still remaining in safe control of the vehicle.

The 10-2 position is the traditional favorite because, in theory, a higher grip allows a driver to keep the car running smoothly without needing to jerk the wheel suddenly if he is cut off or there is a hazard in the road.
But air bags are changing that equation. During a collision, the bag will explode out at more than 100 mph, protecting the driver's head and chest from slamming into the front of the vehicle. With the hands at 10-2 or higher on the wheel, a driver's arms can get walloped or thrown back into his face if an air bag deploys.

Hold the outside rim of the steering wheel at "9 and 3 o'clock" or slightly lower. This position will minimize the risk of injury to your arms, hands and fingers in case your airbag deploys. Your arms should be bent slightly.

In recent years, another new position has gained considerable popularity. "Mostly, the left or right hand up on the wheel and the other hand on a cell phone."

Be able to pivot your right foot from the accelerator to the brake pedal without lifting your heel from the floor.



Taken from Smart Motorist.com


Last edited by wagon r on Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:00 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:55 am
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Adjusting Your Mirrors Correctly


Don't assume that modern car door mirrors adjust themselves or you could be putting your life and others at risk. You need to adjust all three of your rear view mirrors so that you get the widest view possible while keeping your blind spots to a minimum. This is particularly important on multi-lane highways where you may have to keep tabs on lanes on both sides. Many drivers do not turn their outside mirrors out far enough and simply duplicate the same scene in all three mirrors. Rule of thumb: If you can see even a glimpse of the sides of your car in your outside mirrors they are turned too far inwards.

Before you drive away - After entering your vehicle, the very next thing on your agenda should be adjusting your seat and steering wheel, fastening your safety belt, and adjusting all three of your rearview mirrors.

Get comfortable - Adjust your seat so that you are high enough to see the road, yet can still reach all of the vehicle's controls. Many newer vehicles feature tilt and telescoping steering columns to help you get more comfortable. Some new Ford Motor Company products (Ford, Mercury, and Jaguar) offer electrically adjustable foot pedals that allow short, medium, and tall drivers a comfortable driving experience. If you don't have adjustable seats, and are still sitting too low, you should use a seat cushion, or better yet, have your mechanic raise your seat permanently. Do this before putting on your safety belt.

Interior rearview mirror - The positioning for the inside rearview mirror is fairly obvious, you should be able to see out of the rear window from the driver's seat. Be sure the day/night switch found on most rearview mirrors is in the day position during daytime operation. The night setting reduces the headlight glare from cars behind you and helps you see better.

Auto-dimming rearview mirrors - If you drive at night, you've undoubtedly experienced it - annoying and often dangerous glare from the headlamps of vehicles traveling behind you. While normal rearview mirrors are equipped with a day-night switch, automatic dimming mirrors darken to reduce glare from the headlamps of vehicles approaching from the rear. The brighter the glare, the darker the mirrors become, making nighttime driving safer. About 10% of vehicle's sold in the US are currently equipped with this valuable safety feature. Usually auto-dimming mirrors can't be ordered separately and are only available as part of expensive luxury group packages.

Be aware of the SUV glare - In addition to other hazards posed by sport utility vehicles (SUVs) and trucks, their headlights are usually mounted at the same height as most normal car's rearview mirrors. When an SUV travels behind a car, the glare from its headlights is reflected off these mirrors directly into the driver's eyes. Dr. Alan Lewis, president of the New England College of Optometry, has done extensive research on the effects of glare. He found that during nighttime driving, headlight glare from vehicles traveling behind you can temporarily blind you, increasing your reaction time by up to 1.4 seconds, even after the source of the glare is removed. The time it takes to stop your vehicle, or to avoid someone in the oncoming lane, is doubled if you succumb to temporary glare blindness.

Exterior rearview mirrors - As for the side view mirror or mirrors, most people adjust them so they can see the side of the car on the inside edge of the mirror. If you adjust your mirrors using that criteria, are you aware of the huge blind spots that you've created? (Now is the time to take another look at the animated diagram at the top of the page.) Consider the view when the side view mirrors are set up as just described. Essentially, you have created "tunnel vision" to the rear. Your side view mirrors overlap much of what your inside rearview mirrors sees and you've also created blind spots.

What in the solution to tunnel vision and blind spots? Simply adjust the side view mirrors just beyond the point where you could see the side of the car on the inside edge of the mirror. With this setup, you almost completely solve the blind spot problem. It takes a little while to get used to, but it is an improvement. Some quick tips: For the driver's side mirror: Place the side of your head against the window, then adjust the mirror until the side of your vehicle comes into view. For the passenger's side mirror: While sitting in the driver's seat, lean to the right so that your head is in the car's centerline. Adjust the mirror until the side of your vehicle comes into view.

You are now ready to begin your journey safe in the knowledge that you won't have an accident while trying to adjust them while you're driving.

Backing up - Most of us don't think twice about backing our vehicles out of a parking spot or driveway. We should, thousands of children are killed or seriously injured every year by inconsiderate drivers who "just didn't see" them. A quick walk around your vehicle before getting in and backing up is an easy way to help prevent a catastrophe. Even after a walk-around, double check all three of your mirrors before you put your vehicle in reverse. Be extra cautious in inclement weather, don't think it can't happen to you!

Using your mirrors on the road - Most drivers rely on their rear view mirrors for two things, backing up, and changing lanes on the highway. Not checking your blind spots - those areas just outside the field of vision - can have disastrous effects when merging onto the highway or changing lanes.

One of the ways you can protect yourself is to make sure your vehicle's side and rearview mirrors are positioned for maximum road view. If all three of your mirrors are aligned correctly you should be able to see a vehicle leaving your rearview mirror seamlessly transfer to one of your side view mirrors without any delay. Vehicles present that aren't visible in your mirrors are the ones you need to worry about. Drivers with good peripheral vision will see them when they check their side view mirrors.

However if you rely solely on your interior rearview mirror, you're asking for trouble. Thousands of accidents occur each year because people changing lanes fail to see a vehicle that is right next to them. Diligent use of all three of your rearview mirrors should prevent you from getting in another driver's way or cutting them off. A good guideline for deciding when to move into the passing lane or back into the traveling lane is to make sure that you can see the headlights of the vehicle you're passing in the rearview mirror.


Taken from Smart Motorist.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:19 am
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FLOODS: Advice for drivers


Advice for motorists considering driving in flood conditions:

1. Don’t go in if it’s obviously too deep: consider an alternative route

2. If you have to drive through water try to drive in the highest section of the road and don’t set off if a vehicle is travelling in the opposite direction. Leave time and space for each other, so you don’t swamp someone else.

3. Drive only fast enough to create a small bow wave in front of the vehicle - driving at speed may be dangerous to other vehicles or pedestrians.

4. Keep going once you have started - make sure you have a clear run, put the car into first gear, keep the rev’s high and set off. Don’t go in if you can’t see a way out on the other side.

5. Under no circumstances take your foot even slightly off the accelerator, as this will allow water to travel up the exhaust pipe. As you go through the water, slip the clutch if you can. After you come out, dry brakes gently before you need them - the best way is to lightly apply the brake as you drive along for a few seconds. This is particularly important if your car has drum brakes.

At the other side, keep moving, continue to rev the engine to clear any water from the exhaust.



Taken from the I.A.M
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:35 am
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Watch your heels at the wheel


News that women are risking losing control of the car because they are wearing high-heeled shoes while driving may seem far fetched, but a survey by Sheila’s Wheels, the insurer, has backed it up.

Apparently 65 per cent of women want “better guidelines” about what to wear in the car.

Like many things, the Highway Code is a source of good advice and includes this:

. ensure that clothing and footwear do not prevent you using the controls in the correct manner.

But I think it’s fair to say that not every female driver has a copy of the Highway Code in her handbag.

The footwear issue though is just one of the possible hazards at our heels.

For example, a loose tin of drink, or an apple rolling around in the driver’s footwell might be something we ignore to start with. But either of those could potentially end up lodged under the clutch pedal, or worse still, the brake pedal. Then when the driver needs the controls, they are not available.

And also on the footwear theme, flip flops are popular in summer, but again, not really very pedal friendly for drivers: they may not have the high heel problem, but they are looser than our usual footwear and are more inclined to slip off the pedal.

A patch of petrol or diesel on the ground can get picked up when we get back in the car after paying for fuel – potentially making soles slippery.

And older vehicles quite often have worn rubbers on the pedals which are worth a look. If you can see metal showing through, that’s too shiny for comfort and the rubbers should be replaced. A combination of damp shoes from a summer downpour, and “shiny” pedals are putting you and other road users at risk.



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:37 am
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Stay sharp on bends



Have you ever found yourself braking in a bend simply because it was sharper than you originally thought? If you have then you should consider how you actually go about assessing the severity of bends, because if you get it wrong, the consequences are potentially serious.

It is not just novice drivers who get caught out on the bends though in the jargon, it is here that most "single vehicle accidents" take place.

There are a number of clues we can take from the environment to help us. The most obvious are the road signs and markings, but there are other less obvious ones: the line of the trees, hedges, buildings, street lights or telegraph poles (although remember that sometimes telegraph poles run through fields, so don’t follow them!).

The actual width of the road can be a factor because the narrower it is, the less space you have to manoeuvre. Skid marks on the road are an indication of past mistakes. The position and speed of other traffic can also provide you with valuable information. Another particularly useful way of assessing a bend is to use the limit point analysis. The limit point is the furthest point which you can see, i.e. where the left and right hand sides of the road meet.

To use this technique simply ask yourself is it getting further away? If it is and you can see further ahead, then your speed should be fine. On the other hand if it is getting closer, then you could continue to reduce speed until the limit point begins to move with you and your view opens up again.

This technique takes a bit of practice but it will help you to link your speed with your range of vision and allow you to stop in the distance seen to be clear.



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:49 am
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Car Rental Success


Driving a rented car can be just as easy and safe as driving your own automobile—with the right preparation. How can you be sure that you're properly prepared each time you drive a rental? Here are some National Safety Council suggestions that can help to put you on the road to car rental success, especially where your safety is concerned.

Getting to Know You

- Don't rent a vehicle larger than you are physically capable of controlling.

- Spend a few minutes getting acquainted with your rental car.

- Take a look at the dashboard. Note the location of the speedometer, the temperature gauge, the gas gauge and so on.

- Locate the air conditioner, heater, windshield wiper and washer, defroster, and light switches. Turn them on and off to make sure that you know how they work.

- Test the brakes—with the engine running—to get the "feel" of them. Some brakes are "softer" than others, and you don't want to discover this when you're stopping for the first red light. At the same time, get the "feel of the wheel" by testing the "play" in the steering wheel. And make sure the hand brake works.


Check It Out

It's a good idea to inspect the rented car to make sure that everything's in working order.

- Be sure the tires are properly inflated. Underinflated or overinflated tires can greatly affect your safety, especially at high speeds.

- Check the headlights. Know where the switch is even if you'll only be driving during daylight hours—you might suddenly find yourself driving through a tunnel or facing a weather front in which you would want to turn on your lights. Do the lights work on bright and dim?

- Test the turn signals, windshield wipers and horn for any operating problems.

- Inspect the contents of the trunk. It should have a spare tire and a jack in it. Inquire about the availability of an emergency road kit if you're interested in extra protection, or provide your own.

- If you need special equipment, such as chains for driving on ice or child restraint seats, be sure to ask for it before you leave the rental lot.

- Check for any scratches or dents and report them to the rental agency before you leave the premises. Although these will probably not affect the car's performance, you do not want to be held responsible for them when you return the automobile.


Some Things are "More Different" Than Others

The differences between the rented car and the car you own may be more significant than simply the layout of the dashboard or the positioning of the gear shift. Following are some examples.

A Stick-y situation

If you're used to driving an automatic and the rented car is a stick shift—or vice-versa, it's important to reacquaint yourself with handling the new transmission before you begin driving.

More power to you!

Power steering and power brakes require a light touch. If you're not used to driving with them, you may want to get a "feel" for them before moving into heavy traffic.

Sizing things up

You may be used to a big car and the extra power that it affords you. Or, you may be used to squeezing your little compact into the smallest of parking spaces. In any case, if your rental car is significantly larger or smaller than the car you usually drive, be aware of its limitations.

Another alternative

If you're concerned about the differences between the car you rent and the car you own, you might want to request a rental that is similar to the make and model of your own automobile. Most rental agencies will be happy to oblige if they carry that model.


A Few Minor Adjustments, Please

Now it's time to customize the rented car to your personal driving habits.

Position the driver's seat so that you feel comfortable and at ease behind the wheel. Be sure you are seated at least 10"-12" from the steering wheel to allow airbags to inflate if necessary.

Be sure the headrest is level with the top of your ears.
Adjust the rearview and sideview mirrors so that they're in the right positions for you.


Getting the Hang of It

Take the rented car for a simple trial run, especially before you head for the freeways or a crowded downtown area. You may be more comfortable if you drive across the parking lot once or twice, or around the block, to become even more familiar with it. If you've got any questions, or if the car isn't performing up to par, go back to the rental agency immediately.


In Case of Emergency

Be prepared to deal with a crash or other emergency situation while on the road.

Review your insurance options with the clerk when you sign out the car. Know what your personal insurance will cover, and use that information to determine what additional coverage, if any, you may need to purchase.
Be aware of the rental agency's emergency road service provisions.

If they have no specific road service available, inquire as to whom you can contact in the event of an overheated engine, a tire blowout, or similar emergency situations. A good company will give you an information sheet with an 800 number to call in an emergency.


Taken from the National Safety Council.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:00 am
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The True Meaning of Green


Next time you are approaching a junction with traffic lights, ask yourself what a green light means.

If your answer is "go", you are only half right!

For full marks, you need to remind yourself that a green light at the junction does indeed mean go, but only if it is safe to do so.

Then ask yourself how long has it been green and what colour will it go to next? The longer it has been green, the sooner it will change. And there is only one colour next: amber. And amber doesn’t mean "speed up to get across the lights before they change". It means stop. And amber only goes to red next.

These days, especially with congestion the way it is, we see more and more drivers prepared to risk an amber light (we used to call them "amber gamblers") or even a red light to get across a junction.

That in turn means that we need an extra "defensive driving" technique to use. Even though the lights are "with you", always glance both ways as you approach the junction, to satisfy yourself that you can get across in safety.

By taking a moment to look both ways, even when your light is green, you might be able to spot early somebody who is prepared to risk their safety – and yours – by ignoring the traffic signals.

Even if the light is green in your favour, keep using your rear mirror as well.

It may be that you have somebody following you too closely. In which case, you spotting the that the green light is about to be amber in good time means that you will be able to slow down early, brake more gently and so reduce the chances of a rear-end shunt.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:03 am
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Reading the Road Ahead


A good, safe drive is about a mixture of techniques, but high on the list must be the need to use your car's brakes in a smooth and progressive way.

To do so you need to develop observation and anticipation, so that you begin your braking at an early stage and always leave a decent margin for braking more heavily if the need arises.

Many drivers tend to brake too late and too hard. Or arguably less dangerous, but equally annoying, some drivers have the habit of "comfort braking " - touching the brakes to enable themselves feel better, even if they have no intention of slowing the car to any measurable degree. They do so in the belief that they are being careful drivers.

It is better by far to learn to read the road ahead. Not only do you get early warning of developing hazards, you can respond by adjusting your speed using only your throttle.

Have you ever seen a "cascade" of brake lights ahead of you? An advanced driver will judge the speed and distances involved and, having left a decent gap, be able to follow in safety by letting the speed "fall away" and so avoiding the need to brake.

Think too about your positioning on the road - can you maximise your forward view by putting the vehicle in a slightly different position on the carriageway?

This should not be an abrupt repositioning, but a smooth change in your line to enable you to see ahead that little bit better. Careful adjustment of road position improves the view ahead, particularly through corners.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:29 am
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Their life in your hands: Kids in cars


Parents with small children in the car are used to a degree of distraction and by and large cope.

A comfortable child is more likely to enjoy the trip, and less likely to disrupt it, distracting the driver.

So before setting off, check that the shoulder belt is across the middle of the chest and shoulder, not the neck or throat.

Then, each time the child is strapped in, check again that the seat belt securing the seat is still fastened and hasn’t been accidentally tampered with.

Never tuck the shoulder belt under the children’s arm or behind their back. Where you have a lap belt fitted, it should be low and snug across the thighs, not the stomach. Also try to ensure that your child is small enough to sit against the seat back with the legs bent at the knees and feet hanging down; they should be able to stay in this position comfortably throughout the trip.

Small babies should be placed in an appropriate size baby seat beginning with the first ride home from the hospital. Due to the risk of serious injuries, or even death, it is essential that the rear facing car safety seat is never used in the front seat of a car that has a passenger airbag.

Generally the safest place for a child to be is in the back seat.

Children should never be left alone in a car, whether they are in their car safety seats or not.

Temperatures can reach deadly levels in minutes and children have died of heat stroke while locked in the car.

Child locks on the rear doors are a good idea when the children are young and provide you with additional reassurance.



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:58 am
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How long between “bottle” and “throttle”?


The advice from the IAM (Institute of Advanced Motorists) is clear: if you’re going to drive, don’t drink. And if you’re going to drink, don’t drive. It’s as simple as that.

“Just one” is often followed by another, especially if people are buying rounds of drinks. And a generous round-buyer may get you a large wine or a double measure of spirits without you realising it. A well-meaning gesture, but it could put you over the limit. And it’s not just a “festive thing” – the DfT advertising campaign regularly targets summer drink drivers.

Your ability to drive can be affected by even a modest amount of alcohol at any time of year. Even if you are actually within the limit, alcohol still affects your judgement.

Why not volunteer to be the (non-drinking) designated driver for the night? You’ll save money and you’ll be popular with everyone else you’re giving a lift home to.

You may think that after a long sleep and a large mug of coffee you’ll be all right to get behind the wheel, bright and early the next morning. That may not be the case: there could be sufficient alcohol still be in your system and it could be many more hours before you’re within the legal limit.

Remember to leave at least twelve hours between the “bottle” and the “throttle”.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 8:24 am
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They're black, they're round, how do you wear them...??


Although most tyres are made to very high quality standards, there are still variations in the thickness of the rubber, the steel belts and the radial webbing that form the structure. One consequence of the variations is a slight weight difference around the tyre. This is well known and easily cured by balancing the wheel and tyre.

A less well known effect of the variability is something called run-out – a measure of how straight the tyre will run if fitted to a wheel and allowed to roll along a flat level surface. Some will run straight and true, others will veer to the left or right in varying degrees. You will see an indication of this on most new tyres – have you ever noticed coloured lines running around the tread on your new tyre? Some of these are to give the tyre distributors easy to read information about where the tyre should be shipped to, but one of them will be a run-out indicator – usually red or blue, and the extreme left or right hand line. The nearer to the centre it is, the straighter the tyre will run, and which side of the centre it is denotes the direction of the run-out.

A steering problem can arise if both tyres on the front axle happen to run out significantly in the same direction. Ideally, when you’re next buying new tyres you should select two with run-out of about the same amount, but in opposite directions – in other words, with the coloured lines both to the inside of the centre of the tyre, or both to the outside. That way the two will cancel each other out and you’ll get straight steering.

Regardless of the tyre combination, a regular weekly check of the tyre pressure – when they are cold – is the best way to avoid premature wear.You will feel the improvement in the fuel consumption as well.And a quick check for condition (no cuts, bulges, or screws sticking out of the rubber!) at the same time is good practice, too



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 8:28 am
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One eyed monster


Dark afternoons and nights have seen the reappearance of the “one eyed monster” – vehicles with only one headlight operating.

It’s not just commercial vehicles that suffer from this problem, though they do seem to suffer more than private cars - perhaps because they have more than one driver and nobody takes responsibility for checking the overall condition of the vehicle, or simply they are in use more.

Having a headlight out is dangerous in two ways: not only can the driver of the vehicle not see properly in an unlit road with only half the usual light available, but the defective headlight means that other road users will have difficulty spotting the vehicle properly (or in some cases, knowing even what it is).

In a rear mirror, the “one eyed monster” might be mistaken for a motorbike. And at an urban “pinch point”, where you are trying to negotiate parked vehicles, it is difficult to gauge the width of the oncoming car with one headlight not working, increasing the possibility of a low speed “scrape”.

Where speed picks up, a misjudged overtake is more likely to result in a more serious collision if you cannot see the overtaking vehicle early enough, because it has no headlight on one side – especially if the offside (right) headlight is the one that does not work.

Defective headlights are not the only problem of course: lights not functioning properly at the back of a vehicle raise different problems.

A brake light not working will make a rear end shunt more likely as the driver following takes longer to realise that the car ahead is stopping.

It is an offence to drive a vehicle with defective lighting. And the lighting section of the MoT covers all exterior lamps required by the vehicle lighting regulations.

Nine times out of ten, defective lighting is simply a matter of replacing a blown bulb.

Yet checking your bulbs are still OK takes only a moment. In slow moving traffic, you can see if you have both headlights working by studying your reflection off the car in front.

And if when you park, you are by a window (reversing onto a drive, perhaps) you can use your mirrors to check that the brake light and red tail lights are all working properly. If in doubt, have somebody watch as you test them



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