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Chassis Stiffening Foam

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Conrad
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Chassis Stiffening Foam

Postby Conrad » March 31st, 2010, 8:09 pm

Has anyone tried this yet locally? I've seen Sanctifier mentioned it but not seen it done locally.

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Postby sigma-turbo » March 31st, 2010, 11:09 pm

I just look at that and it screams I HOLD MOISTURE

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Postby Conrad » March 31st, 2010, 11:19 pm

Actually it doesn't. Once the body has been prepped properly (I.e. rust removal and prevention) the foam acts as an insulator.

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Postby MAZDAMINDZ » April 1st, 2010, 12:20 pm

:) :) :) nice

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Postby cinco » April 1st, 2010, 1:15 pm

is this for a track car or a street car?
isnt the car designed with some flex as a street car so it doesnt put extra pressure on any of the bushing or other parts?

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Postby Conrad » April 1st, 2010, 1:36 pm

I'll be rocking polyurethane bushings through out with a few spherical bushings.

I believe some chassis flex would be allowed by OEM due to weight saving (lower gas milage and accel. times) , NVH as well manuf. costm

Street car with fun activities btw.

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Postby cinco » April 2nd, 2010, 12:26 am

chassis flex is also there for crash safety
i havent seen any reviews on this foam in terms of how much stiffness it actually adds so i hope if you do it you share some opinions

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Postby Conrad » April 2nd, 2010, 12:33 am

If I do I won't be doing it anytime soon, I just put it up for reference and input from others like yourself.

In the thread I posted the guy didn't use it along any of the crumple zones in the front rails. It was used more along the the A, B & C pillars as well as the roof support and as far as I understand. Basically like a roll cage that is lighter, unobtrusive to vehicle occupants and still offering safety/rigidity. It seems like a Win-Win situation from my perspective.

If you haven't please read the thread, especially the latter part as it's relatively informative IMO.

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Postby cinco » April 2nd, 2010, 10:52 am

interesting seems like it is worth it but he started off with a pretty stiff car as he even mentioned no chassis deflection at all
reading that thread reminded me of this truck
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/a ... ng-psycho/
he did is all for sound deadning but he sprayed expanding foam into the holes in the cab also
i had a chance to sit in it it is dead quiet when you close the doors with the windows up you feel the air pressure

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Postby FullStop » April 2nd, 2010, 2:31 pm

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/03 ... ition.aspx

this r3 trim of the rx8 's chassis is urethane foam filled

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Postby droppa » April 6th, 2010, 7:43 am

hoss, i think i see this on my cuz starlet, by where the evap holes are on the firewall, i believe the person who used it got it from Peakes. call them and see if they got it.... :roll:

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Postby Sanctifier » April 6th, 2010, 10:39 am

sigma-turbo wrote:I just look at that and it screams I HOLD MOISTURE
FoamSeal and other 2-part expanded urethanes are "closed-cell" formulations...No voids available to hold moisture. So it's also GREAT in preventing rust from forming in chassis-rails etc. as well as being an excellent "sound deadening" material to kill "Noise, Vibration and Harshness"... IMHO, win...Win...WIN!
cinco wrote:is this for a track car or a street car?
Both...High-end cars like Mercedes-Benz have used it for quite awhile. Other "high-end" cars (like the Evo 7 and other newer Lancers :lol: ) have also used it for years.
cinco wrote:...sprayed expanding foam into the holes...
It's a 2-part mix that's poured/pumped into cavity and expands to fill the space.
There is "flow-out" of extra material, so stripping the interior (& internal wiring) is essential.
If it gets on your upholstry...IT WON'T COME OFF!

Sanctifier wrote:BTW here's some more info on DIY Urethane Foam use...
http://www.stormowners.com/GSOPDatacent ... iew/id/110
Seems I was wrong. (~ Depending on the chassis design) Foamseal can increase chassis stiffness up to 300% :!: ... Image
Though it may not be advisable to go that high for street use.

While structural foam, in "2 lb/cub ft" density can stiffen chassis members up to 40 percent;
maybe a combination of densities can be used for even better results.
Use "2 lb/cub ft" density in chassis rails to allow a greater level of "give" in side impacts
(to reduce the force actually transferred to the occupants.)
... but use even higher densities for the "skinny" "A" (windscreen) and "B" (door) pillars
that usually collapse, or even worse... "tear" so easily in an accident.

Reduced roof and side pillar collapse... plus better seats and belts... plus OEM "air bags" to
absorb forces generated during accidents, should be a much better life-saving
combination than 3-point seat-belts, air-bags and plastic trim alone.
Image

:idea: There's your roll-cage :idea: ... with no dangerous intrusive bars at all;
(and no padding needed) reducing the need for door and floor bars
... with the added benefit of being lighter than a cage for :idea: improved acceleration :idea: ...
(Cheaper and less work.) Have your cake... and eat it too!
A local "weld-in" full cage is $14-16,000 installed. :shock:
Humm... maybe I should have an "Evo 6 roll cage" sale now! :lol:
Here's the thread for more details, video clips and links...
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.

My $0.02¢

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Postby Bezman » April 6th, 2010, 11:01 am

Sanctifier, good post, was planning on squirting this down the holes of the old 1200

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Postby Sanctifier » April 6th, 2010, 5:36 pm

Bezman wrote:...was planning on squirting this down the holes of the old 1200

down the holes... IMHO it might be a better idea to fill "from the bottom, working upward" using a slight gradient. Some of the stiffer (stronger) densities set-up so quickly that trying to pour it "down" a chassis rail might leave voids (gaps.) See other thread on Zorce.

That's another reason that I need to build a rotisserie to try to do this properly (without voids) on all three project cars. Also planning to "stitch weld" the chassis... add a couple extra chassis braces... plus use a "bolt-in" cage in the Evo 6. :wink:

My $0.02¢

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