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DIY help

 
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GameOver
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Joined: 10 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:21 am
   Post subject: DIY help
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I have almost completed my first major DIY job - changed head and block in my P11 (SR20, M6 CVT)
Can the pros give me some heads up with what checks I need to make before I try to start engine up. Any thing a rookie may have overlooked that could prove disastrous...

Really appreciate any advice that is given.
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X_Factor
30 pounds of Boost


Joined: 27 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:39 am
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u used a torque wrench and correct measurements acording to the manual??
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GameOver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:53 am
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Embarassed ¡no! no tengo torque wrench...

but neither does my mech Shocked

is this really bad?
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GameOver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:54 am
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head and block was complete though..
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:26 pm
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GameOver wrote:
Embarassed ¡no! no tengo torque wrench...but neither does my mech Shocked is this really bad?

Sanctifier wrote:
Con-rod bolt torque specs should be measured with a stretch gauge (if available) not a torque wrench.
I've never seen one in T&T... I'm going to buy my own.

Cylinder head bolts definately need a torque wrench...

Search "How things work"... Google... etc.

You just bought an old engine and installed it?... What warranty did you get?
If you "open" it, either buy (and use) a NEW torque wrench... or *get a NEW mechanic* (who has one.)

BTW... is this really bad?... Don't know specs for SR20...
but FYI Mitsu engines use "torque to yield" con-rod and cylinder head bolts.

Both are ONE USE ONLY Exclamation ... Replace with new Mitsu bolts on every rebuild/gasket change... or buy ARP bolts/studs. IMHO check to see if your SR20 is similar.

My $0.02¢


Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:40 pm; edited 2 times in total
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X_Factor
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:37 pm
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ohh, if u just changed the head&block and didnt "build" the head and block
and all u really doing is mounting it back into the engine bay, on to the tranny and bolting back the normal bolt on's, the torque wrench may not be necessary for that
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Maserati
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:37 pm
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dude get a good torque wrench eg. snap on
and find the specs. for the engine and torque accordingly
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X_Factor
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:40 pm
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apparently its just a head and block swap, he didnt assemble the parts in head and block

in that case the torque wrench really isnt necessary
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GameOver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:44 pm
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Quote:
"ohh, if u just changed the head&block and didnt "build" the head and block
and all u really doing is mounting it back into the engine bay, on to the tranny and bolting back the normal bolt on's, the torque wrench may not be necessary for that"


^^^^ thats it... thanks
just never spent so many hours working on my car so I guess it seemed "major" to me.

So just fill up with oil and tumble..? (belts, seals and water pump changed)
everything else (tranny, alternator, power steering pump, distributor, a/c) was from original engine.
What about timing? seeing i removed the distributor and have no reference bolt markings. I dont have a timing gun.
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7143
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:55 pm
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horse yuh din realli need the torque wrench in your case after all cuz u jus swappin d complete head and block...u not openin it up an ting so no headbolts needed to be taken out or placed in back.....oh an dont top up d d oil dat already in d new block...drain out all d old oil an fill with new one...yuh ent kno how long dat old oil inside dey na....jus be safe.....
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janfar
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Joined: 13 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:30 am
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The distributor should be on a sliding device for adjustment. Easy was to get timing right id to slacken the 2 bolts for the dist. and adjust, on every incremental movement listen to the throttle response by stepping on the acc pedal. The best response should be where u lock the dist in place. If you are not to clear on what i just told you best bet would be to see a pro.
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GameOver
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:16 am
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^^^^thanks..
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