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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 2nd, 2009, 8:08 pm

sorry sorry , i have been busy all week ..... see what you want here and lemme know =] , www.hotiso.com

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Syberfraggle
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Postby Syberfraggle » April 2nd, 2009, 9:43 pm

lol not you clown..lol but the link is duly noted.. :)

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Flex030
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Postby Flex030 » April 3rd, 2009, 9:51 am

Syberfraggle wrote:lol not you clown..lol but the link is duly noted.. :)


:lol: :lol: :lol: @ my buddy Marcus 8-)

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Postby b18b_turbo » April 3rd, 2009, 11:04 am

hahahah! Check how marcus replied all confident there, hahah marcus u r real kicks yo!

Syberfraggle, hope you get through soon, Flex emailed the contact listing, give the guy a call

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 3rd, 2009, 11:39 am

hehe , thats what you call a quick plugin ....... there are customers out there :mrgreen:

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Postby Syberfraggle » April 3rd, 2009, 12:40 pm

will do ..was hopin he would have called first though..only seemed right

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Postby quiot » April 7th, 2009, 7:41 am

love d show of all the beauties guys..........hopefully soon ill hav my legacy and ill join up...hope to see more pics of future events.....

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Postby roseman » April 16th, 2009, 8:03 pm

Wats up fellas?

I need some feedback. I'm gonna switch from honda to Subaru (Legacy), but i wanna know how is the mtce on the vehicle.

Unfortunately im going non-turbo (wifey dont want me with turbo)

Your comments, suggestions would be appreciated.

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Postby Bacon » April 16th, 2009, 10:15 pm

Once you do your Mtce on time with the correct parts and fluids wou will have no problems.........Plenty suppliers like Sleepoy on Scoobytnt.com supplying you with original and aftermaket at real reasonable prices............Trust me you making a good move there and you would not regret it.

The only thing is Legacy rotors have a tendancy to warp so you might just want to go aftermaket when that happens and done.

Other than that once the car you get is in good condition and you do your stuff regularly you will have no problem.

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 16th, 2009, 10:23 pm

ok mtce is different =] ..... now i use my car everyday i have the turbo =] .......

Gas consumption: is a little more as compared to the almera i had .... usually a trip to north ,east and back south used to cost about $50.00 with the almera , now its about $60.00 with the legacy cruising speed , if i switch to sport mode and share licks on those honda cars it will burn about $80.00 =]

.... Suspension is minor , i changed those cradle bushings in front ,it cost $175.00 a side =] ... the shocks could take a beating no worries ..... front brakes about $1200.00 pair , rear brakes about $700.00 pair =] ..... you would want to use good tyres recommended so you may spend about $1000.00 each for dunlop dirreza , maybe $1600.00 for bridgestone potenza if you have the extra cash on 18" wheels .... 17" will be less =] .... so far thats all i have changed with the suspension except for the tein h-tech springs i put on ..... the suspension is rugged so once you change something it supposed to last a long time ... i have driven over from pot holes to pot hounds and the ride is still a high quality feel and sound =]

... Engine , the plugs are iridium so after about 65,000 km you'll want to check them ... my car is RORO so i changed my plugs, front and rear brakes, timing belt, fan belt, tensioner , pulleys around there just to be sure .... a good mechanic will charge more so i spent about 9gs there , so im supposed to be good for another 100,000 km =] ... a tune up will cost you about $400.00 - $500.00 for recommended mobil 5w 30 oil , oil filter ..... the air filter is about $295.00 for the original so you'll want to spend about $450.00 at most and invest in a k&n or perrin drop in filter which you can clean and reuse =] ... i change my oil every 5000km ... i changed the transmission oil which did not need changing , which is subaru at $800.00 ... the rear differential oil is still clear and good to go so far =]

Sounds : a good DLS system with flip screen dvd will blow you and your passengers away !!! =] , ave 15gs , but this not important .

Satisfaction : the pleasure i get from my ride is an amazing feeling =] .... most young girls i come across dont know what a legacy is , they just know the subaru name , you'll score more with the older women or cougars =] ... its a real high quality ride for the price bracket ..... yes the parts cost more but good things are more expensive ..... sometimes i look at my ride and cant believe its mine =] ...... so guest drive one before you make up your mind.

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Bacon
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Postby Bacon » April 16th, 2009, 10:25 pm

Also doh feel that going non turbo is an "unfortunate" thing.......Turbo or non turbo: Subaru’s are great cars and having owned both Turbo and non-turbo Legacy's I can safely say that non-turbo Legacy's have alot to offer and are still a pleasure to own.

Speaking from experience sometimes having too much speed is tooooooo much of a temptation to take unnecessary chances anyway......200+km/hr is always a dangerous place to be on public roads, even with Subaru's superior suspension and safety features. You always end up there once you have it though.............So enjoy the Non-turbo the 2L boxer ain't half bad either.

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 16th, 2009, 10:28 pm

you know CB i was thinking of changing the rotors , is it better than cutting over the stock ones ? ... how much will i have to spend for all on ave ?

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Postby Bacon » April 16th, 2009, 10:45 pm

It depends on your budget........I think a good machine shop can extend the life of warped rotors at a very reasonabe cost (providing they don't have any deep wear lines).

The previous owner of my GT brought in DBA slotted rotors (4400 series) for the front and (4000 series) rear and it cost him around $4500.00. Some people have the front for sale for $4000.00 and less. I am sure by now if you hunt around yourself you will get it for less.

So it really depends on how much you want to spend.......The only thing is the original would warp again. I know a guy who bought a 2006 legacy from N&M and is on his 3rd set of original rotors. The slotted look hott too. :wink:

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 16th, 2009, 10:49 pm

nice =] .... so do you know if kev machined his DBA rotors as yet ?

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Postby roseman » April 17th, 2009, 12:11 am

Thanks fellas for the positive feedback.

i would be bringing it in from Japan (2L non turbo)

I would definately let u guys know when i get it so probably nex time there is a Legacy meet, i can come thru.

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Postby Bacon » April 17th, 2009, 1:45 am

marcus8860 wrote:nice =] .... so do you know if kev machined his DBA rotors as yet ?


Normally the DBA last pretty long under normal usage so I don't THINK he would have needed to.......but I am sure he will post a response when he sees this post.

Just came across this, posted 12.20am......what a coincidence......He needed to shave his.....So it does happen.

Ole Whore wrote:

legacy gt dba rotors 4000 series with slots(kangaroo paw) used from my car good condition .. shaved very fine once ..
serious offers invited......will throw in the used disc pads (also in good condition , recently bought from massy)
call 681-1975

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 17th, 2009, 7:56 am

ok thanks =] .... i'll call him.

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Postby Alpha_2nr » April 17th, 2009, 9:23 am

Engine , the plugs are iridium so after about 65,000 km you'll want to check them ... my car is RORO so i changed my plugs, front and rear brakes, timing belt, fan belt, tensioner , pulleys around there just to be sure .... a good mechanic will charge more so i spent about 9gs ther


9g's.....I trust that was not the mechanic's service charge right? :lol:

Seriously though, a good timing belt/pully/tensioner/seal change should run you into the 2-3K range (depending on which belt you decide to usee.g. Power ENterprise, Greddy, Gates, SPT etc - other parts are easily available in the firm).


It depends on your budget........I think a good machine shop can extend the life of warped rotors at a very reasonabe cost (providing they don't have any deep wear lines)


The common mistake most folks make is rapid / overheat wo proper cool down driving.....AND......AND......not skimming rotors before using a different pad compound.

SOme folks don't agree with that....but frankly, when you consider the metallurgy behind it, it's better to skim your rotors when going with a different brand of pads, and stick with those forthwith.

It can only help against premature wear (and warping which can happen as a long corollary of what I've mentioned).
Last edited by Alpha_2nr on April 17th, 2009, 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 17th, 2009, 9:55 am

^^^^ lol , yes that was my total bill when done =] , the timing belt from massy cost 2300 !!! , but all this was done before i met up with guys like sleepoy =] ..... so i'll know to call next time.

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Postby Flex030 » April 17th, 2009, 10:22 am

Canadian Bacon wrote:
marcus8860 wrote:nice =] .... so do you know if kev machined his DBA rotors as yet ?


Normally the DBA last pretty long under normal usage so I don't THINK he would have needed to.......but I am sure he will post a response when he sees this post.


Nope they are just fine for now. I also recently installed the Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines.... :D

Despite popular belief it did make a big difference.

Took these pics after installation:

Image
Image
Image
Last edited by Flex030 on April 17th, 2009, 10:49 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Postby Alpha_2nr » April 17th, 2009, 10:24 am

^^^^ lol , yes that was my total bill when done =] , the timing belt from massy cost 2300 !!! , but all this was done before i met up with guys like sleepoy =] ..... so i'll know to call next time.



^^Ok I was wondering......cuz I recently heard of a mechanic charging 2000 TTD to change a timing belt.

Ridiculous........it's really not that hard to do once you have the right tools (aka spanners and sockets), and the extra hands.


Nope they are just fine and I also recently installed the Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines....


Oh hell yeah they do. I don't think anyone could say the GR lines don't make a difference in feel.
Last edited by Alpha_2nr on April 17th, 2009, 11:01 am, edited 2 times in total.

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 17th, 2009, 10:33 am

^^^ so you'll feel the difference when driving ?

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Alpha_2nr
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Postby Alpha_2nr » April 17th, 2009, 10:49 am

^^Well, for me, the best feel was coupled with a a good brake fluid. (I personally swear by ATE Super Blue, but Motul RBF etc etc are all great)


This is the only shot I have of mine thus far (they've been on for years now).

Image

The main difference is pedal feel. The SS lines won't make your car stop faster, or brake better...but it has so much more of a positive feel to it. It's more responsive from the time you tip the brakes, and feels firmer on hard stops (which I like).

For day to day driving, you don't really NEED to have it, but it's nice if the stock brake pedal feel (which is mushy IMHO) isn't up to your taste.

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Postby Flex030 » April 17th, 2009, 10:54 am

Knight1 wrote:

Nope they are just fine and I also recently installed the Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines....


Oh hell yeah they do. I don't think anyone could say the GR lines don't make a difference in feel.


I was told before I bought them that I was wasting my money, that there is no big difference over stock lines.

Well they were wrong, dead wrong :lol: it did make a difference i need to change the B/fluid to a more heat risistant one though.

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marcus8860
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Postby marcus8860 » April 17th, 2009, 10:56 am

it is better to have it and not need it , than need it and not have it =]

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Postby Alpha_2nr » April 17th, 2009, 10:56 am

^^Nice Enkei RSV's btw Flex......but dude....Nexen's are for ricers and poseurs y0.

Get a REAL tyre worthy of Subaru AWD :lol:


it is better to have it and not need it , than need it and not have it =]


You will never really NEED it. That's the point. It only makes the brake pedal feel better if that's what you like. I hated (and still hate) stock subaru peddal feel. But stopping distances will NOT change with them or without.

FOr a bigger difference......get good tyres. Your car will thank you.



I was told before I bought them that I was wasting my money, that there is no big difference over stock lines.


:lol: The difference is great, but not character changing :lol:

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Flex030
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Postby Flex030 » April 17th, 2009, 11:02 am

Knight1 wrote:Love the Enkei RSV's dude.......but Nexens are for ricers and poseurs y0.

Get a real tyre worthy of Subaru AWD :lol:


:oops: :oops: I know but the N3000 I got (deal) for my Altezza and ended up selling the car so I wanted to use these until I could save my pennies to buy a set of Potenza :wink:

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Flex030
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Postby Flex030 » April 17th, 2009, 11:11 am

marcus8860 wrote:it is better to have it and not need it , than need it and not have it =]


Knight1 is right you might not really need it but after installing it you would realize how sh;tty the stock one feels. It takes away that spongy feeling you get on the pedal and you do not need to apply that much pressure to stop either, as a result of less to no kinking on the brake lines.

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Flex030
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Postby Flex030 » April 29th, 2009, 1:44 pm

We will have to come together and plan another one pretty soon guys/gals :wink:

SUBARU LEGACY SINGAPORE MEET:
http://subarulegacy.sg/viewtopic.php?t=5810

Oh yeah you should register it's a great site :D


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Postby copper_shot » April 29th, 2009, 8:47 pm

don't forget www.legacygt.com

anyways we should do it definitely, but plan way in advance so we can get a much bigger attendance

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