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Power Steering Maintenance - fluid changed with pics

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venum
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Power Steering Maintenance - fluid changed with pics

Postby venum » September 1st, 2006, 8:31 pm

so my RORO CK2 Lancer is now 7 years old

I have it 4 years now and perform regular maintenance

I did a brake fluid change last year, where the entire brake system was drained of brake fluid and new DOT 4 fluid added

what about Power Steering system, what kind of maintenance should I do?

nothing is wrong with it, it works fine, but I would like to perform any preventive maintenance needed.

I rather maintain that repair
Last edited by venum on September 4th, 2007, 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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krack korn
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Postby krack korn » September 3rd, 2006, 2:44 am

I see nobody ent taking u on here so I will tell u what I do.

Basically u need to change the oil ever so often, this is a very commonly negelected fluid and is subjected to a lot of stress, newer cars tend to put in a cooling loop in the system before it returns to the reservoir. Pressures on the high side are over 1000psi and the pump is 'dead headed' a lot.

A simple thing that people don't know is that the steering should not be held in the fully locked position for more than a few seconds (with engine running), when u lock all the way over u hear a hissing/buzzing, this is the pump bypassing and it heats up the fluid quickly.

U can add an oil cooler on the return path especially if the vehicle has a tendency to kill power steering pumps but that may be over kill in most cases.

Now the fluid is plain old tranny fluid, use a dextron III and use the oil of your choice, a synthetic fluid will be best due to the tendency to neglect. I think 60,000 K is a good change interval. Buying 'powersteering' fluid is not necessary and is often more expensive. There are some fluids out there that claim to soften and rejuvinate seals, I have used one made by 'Johnsen' but I didn't have a leak or any problem and it didnt create any problem for another 60.000k but I am not saying u should use it. The system will take no more that 2 liters and most times 1 liter is enough. Seeing as is so lil bit don't go cheap.

The issue is now how to drain the fluid. First inspect the system properly for any leaks and wet spots, a lot of nissans seep a little on the pump suction side, now would be a good time to sort out these issues.

I use a 40cc syringe to suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir first, then I disconnect the suction to the pump and place a container under the reservoir to catch the little that remains, then I use a little tyre 12V air compressor and force air into the hose that was disconnected, this forces air through the system in the direction that fluid is supposed to travel, turn the steering a little in both directions while doing this and fluid trapped in the lower areas will be pushed in to the reservoir and drain into your little container.

If u are very paranoid about getting all the oil out, refill with new oil start engine let circulate for a while, lock steering both ways fully for a few seconds and then repeat draining proceedure. Take out reservoir and clean it, there will be some sediment from seals etc.

On reasembly I like to use liquid PTFE sealant on all the hose ends being secured by hose clips, this ensures a leak free finale. Clean/wash off all oil residue from hoses and their connection points to get a good seal. To do this remove the hoses from the car, u may also want to change the hoses if they are cracking and maybe change the hose clips to a high quality flat type.

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venum
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Postby venum » September 3rd, 2006, 11:10 pm

thanx for the reply man

that's really detailed

by not having replies, I guess that is proof of the neglect of this fluid fuh real

either that, or none of the reg posters here know much bout this

a true learning experience for all of us

so how do you know that the fluid needs changing apart from the mileage?

and how do I determine if there is an oil cooler?

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Postby Corollaman » September 4th, 2006, 12:15 am

Much here I didn't know about either.
Well done krack korn.


Anyway venum, to determine if there is an oil cooler, I think your best bet is to follow your power steering fluid hoses and see where they lead. If they connect straight to the rack, chances are there is no oil cooler.

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Postby cacasplat3 » September 4th, 2006, 12:39 am

good read. sometimes the lines run infront of the condenser/radiator.
many ppl think that these are air conditioning lines, but sum cars have the powersteering lines run in the air path. i guess this would act as an oil cooler.(my car has it) u should trace your lines to see where they go. :wink:

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Postby Pointman-IA » September 4th, 2006, 3:09 am

cacasplat3 wrote:good read. sometimes the lines run infront of the condenser/radiator.
many ppl think that these are air conditioning lines, but sum cars have the powersteering lines run in the air path. i guess this would act as an oil cooler.(my car has it) u should trace your lines to see where they go. :wink:



what kinda car u have?

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Postby krack korn » September 4th, 2006, 3:58 am

^he have a cefiro, A33.

cacasplat3 is correct, cooler for the PS is usually just a loop of aluminum tubing running in front the radiator, all the newer nissans have it from 97+. U can however replace it with a 'real' oil cooler, nissan used rubber hose to pass through the radiator pannel so just disconnect the loop and put in an oil cooler. Just a small one if u want to save space. Alternatively u could use copper tubing and increase the length and convolutions of the loop if space is not a problem.

venum, when your fluid needs changing it will go dark in colour, u will hear some slight noise from the pump when turning the steering as well because oil is breaking down, is thinning and possibly foaming in the system. U shouldn't get the black particles like in the tranny fluid because there are no clutches to burn (they could come from the seals but at that point things should be real bad and u would have leaks), but u could get a burn smell in really bad fluid. If u do a lot of driving in traffic change the oil more frequently than 60,000k.

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Postby Big Z » September 4th, 2006, 6:50 am

Computer trouble this weekend.... Mr. Krack has detailed it pretty good. Great write up.

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Postby Rudman » September 4th, 2006, 7:19 am

Good read man. Think I will add this to my maintenance list. Seeing that this is a fluid that tends to get neglected, what's a good synthetic P.S fluid to use?

Another thing, I am a little confused as to which end the compressed air has to go. When U disconnect the suction hose to the pump from the reservoir, U blowing air into the suction side of the P.S. pump? Is that really necessary? Won't the pump, on its own, pump out the remaining fluid back into the reservoir?

Just asking.

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Postby krack korn » September 4th, 2006, 8:33 am

Yes u blow the air into the suction side of the PS pump. Do not be alarmed by pressues up to 300psi, you are pressuring thru the pump and the clearances are tight.

All this is done with the car off so the pump won't be pumping, you can start it if u want but I would be wary of running the pump essentially dry for any period of time. If you want to loosen the PS belt and spin the pump while pressurising with air that would be the best way.

Only time u would put the engine on during this proceedure is if u are circulating new oil to flush out the remaining old oil and when u are finished.

The powersteering fluid as stated in the first post is just transmission fluid, use any Dextron III fluid that u like or use the amsoil or other synthetic tranny fluid.

Before anyone takes this as generic proceedure make sure and consult your manual as to the recommended fluid.

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Postby cacasplat3 » September 4th, 2006, 9:55 pm

krack korn, very good write up, i say sticky :P

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Postby venum » September 5th, 2006, 8:21 pm

this deserves a sticky

anyone know where I can get this reliably done?

Krack korn outlined it pretty good as a DIY, so I may go that route

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Postby saltydog » September 7th, 2006, 8:42 am

Well that is one way to do it but it seems a bit lengthy. Generally when we do this this is how it is done. Remove and clean the bottle then reinstall it blocking off the return line port on the bottle and run the return hose from the rack in to a container with a clear hose (you have to use a fitting to join the 2 hoses) Now fill the reseroir with fresh fluid and start the car, you need someone to help you at this point cause the fluid needs to be filled continually. have the person turn the steering from side to side whilst you are filling the bottle. Keep an eye on the fluid coming out of the system through the clear hose that should be going in to a waste container. Once it is running clean you have replaced all the fluid in the system. I know some manufactures recommend this to be done every 2 years or 60000km.

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Postby saltydog » September 7th, 2006, 8:48 am

"
Just as with fluid maintenance for your cooling system and transmission, it's not necessary to change all of the power steering system's fluid to keep it in good condition—as long as it's being done before visible deterioration occurs. "


This is what valvoline had to say. The recommend just changing the fluid in the bottle a couple of times over a period of a month or so

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Postby venum » October 10th, 2006, 6:08 pm

:bump:

anymore advice?

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Postby venum » September 4th, 2007, 12:42 am

DIY Project step by step with pics

CK2A Lancer

Materials needed:

2 jack stands
1 catch can for used fluid - an old oil container or large water bottle, bucket etc will do
1 long piece of hose as a bleeder line (we chose a transparent hose to observe the colour of the fluid as it was pumped)
funnel
1 1/2 quarts of power steering\transmission fluid
1 syringe
rags
old newspapers
screwdrivers\pliers to remove and fasten hose clamps


Fluid used:

AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid

Image

1. Jack up car such that both front wheels are off the ground - jack stands are an asset

Image

2. Disconnect power steering return line to reservoir and connect bleeder line.

Connect the bleeder line to the tubing coming from the rack, as this is where the old fluid will be drained from.

When you do this, the fluid from the reservoir will pour out, so be ready to plug it quickly as well as connecting the bleeder line. A pair of extra hands will be useful.

Image

Be ready with the bleeder line to connect quickly while simultaneously plugging the line from the reservoir.

Image

Place catch can to collect the fluid from the reservoir

Image

3. Remove reservoir strainer

This is a good opportunity to remove and clean the strainer

Image

you can see the dirty strainer:

Dirty Strainer:

Image

Image

4. Wash out the strainer

Hold it under a pipe and let the water run through it. Try to get the direction of the running water to push out the particles, as opposed to pushing them in.

allow to dry while performing the rest of the job.

Avoid excessive water pressure so as to not damage the strainer element - it is a soft plastic after all

Clean strainer:

Image

Image

If you have a can of compressed air or even a reversible household vaccum, you can use it to blow out any water in the filter. A hair dryer will assist in drying the strainer on a day without much sun.

5. Plug or adjust the line connected at the bottom of the reservoir such that new fluid poured into the reservoir will not leak out. We chose to angle it upwards.

You can see in the pic it is angled upwards:

Image

6. Pour new fluid into reservoir

Place the funnel over the reservoir, or just pour from the bottle if your aim is good.

Image

7. With engine off, turn steering wheel side-to-side, while topping up the reservoir

Do not start the engine at this stage. From previous experience, the pressure from the power steering pump sprays fluid all over the place and depletes the new fluid in the reservoir incredibly fast, faster than you can supply fresh fluid via the funnel\bottle.

An extra pair of clean hands come in handy to turn the steering while you top up the reservoir

Observe the colour of the old\dirty\contaminated fluid in the transparent tubing and catch can

Image

Image

Note: When the steering wheel is completely turned to one side (full lock) and begins to turn in the other direction, some fluid will be sucked back into the rack, but after ~ 1/4 turn the fluid once again flows out of the rack.

8. Keep doing this until the fluid draining into the catch can is the same colour as the new fluid

Observe the colour of the fluid in the bleeder line become the same as the new fluid

Image

9. Reconnect the hoses as they were

This has to be done quickly and there will be some fluid spillage.

10. Top up the reservoir

11. Remove trapped air from the lines

With the engine off, turn the steering from side to side until no air bubbles up from the reservoir.

Once again, do not start the engine, as this will cause the pump to force out any trapped air bubbles, spraying fluid all over the place.

The reservoir must be uncapped to allow the air bubbles to escape.

12. After all air bubbles have been purged, cap the reservoir and start the engine

13. Remove any excess fluid from the reservoir

A syringe can be used, or a bit of suction via a hose

14. Cap the reservoir and measure the level of fluid - top up to a healthy level.

Image

Dirty Fluid

Image

Dirty Fluid mixed with new fluid:

Image

Reason for old newspaper and rags:

Image

SPECIAL THANKS TO:

MISHI, Dave, krack korn, saltydog and Sanctifier for Tech advice

and Rudman for the facilities

KB8 L200 Sportero


Fluid used:

AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid

Image

1. Jack up truck such that both front wheels are off the ground - jack stands are an asset

Image

Image

Image

2. Locate and disconnect power steering return line to reservoir and connect bleeder line.

Image

When you do this, the fluid from the reservoir will pour out, so be ready to plug it quickly as well as connecting the bleeder line.


No need for bleeder line as the return hose coming from the rack will allow the old fluid to be drained.

Image


Place catch can to collect the fluid from the reservoir

Really dirty fluid stains the plastic reservoir - looks like it is still filled

Image

Image

3. Observe dirty reservoir strainer - Cannot be removed as in the CK2 Lancer above. Will have to be cleaned in place


Image

Image

Image


4. Remove and Wash out the reservoir with kerosene

Image

Image

really badly stained and dirty will not clean properly with kerosene, so bring in heavier stuff - Carburettor or intake cleaner

Image

when done, reservoir will be clean

Image

Rinse out clean reservoir with some clean fluid to flush out any remaining carb cleaner - IMPORTANT - the carb cleaner dissolves the ATF, so make sure and rinse it all out as you do not want the carb cleaner mixing with your new ATF when added

Image

5. Plug or adjust the line connected at the bottom of the reservoir such that new fluid poured into the reservoir will not leak out. We chose to plug it with a piev=ce of plastic and tie strap.

Image


6. Pour new fluid into reservoir

Place the funnel over the reservoir, or just pour from the bottle if your aim is good.

Image

7. With engine off, turn steering wheel side-to-side, while topping up the reservoir. Observe the old fluid being pumped out

Image

Do not start the engine at this stage. From previous experience, the pressure from the power steering pump sprays fluid all over the place and depletes the new fluid in the reservoir incredibly fast, faster than you can supply fresh fluid via the funnel\bottle.

An extra pair of clean hands come in handy to turn the steering while you top up the reservoir

Observe the colour of the old\dirty\contaminated fluid


Note: When the steering wheel is completely turned to one side (full lock) and begins to turn in the other direction, some fluid will be sucked back into the rack, but after ~ 1/4 turn the fluid once again flows out of the rack.

8. Keep doing this until the fluid draining into the catch can is the same colour as the new fluid

Observe the colour of the fluid in the bleeder line become the same as the new fluid

9. Reconnect the hoses as they were

This has to be done quickly and there will be some fluid spillage.

10. Top up the reservoir

11. Remove trapped air from the lines

With the engine off, turn the steering from side to side until no air bubbles up from the reservoir.

Once again, do not start the engine, as this will cause the pump to force out any trapped air bubbles, spraying fluid all over the place.

The reservoir must be uncapped to allow the air bubbles to escape.

12. After all air bubbles have been purged, cap the reservoir and start the engine

13. Remove any excess fluid from the reservoir

A syringe can be used, or a bit of suction via a hose

14. Cap the reservoir and measure the level of fluid - top up to a healthy level.



Dirty Fluid - Right, Clean Fluid - Left

Image

Image

Image

Enjoy your hard work in a satisfying DIY job :D
Last edited by venum on February 25th, 2012, 8:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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cacasplat3
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Postby cacasplat3 » September 4th, 2007, 1:27 am

great write up...i wish it was that easy on my car.......its easier to do it the way saltydog, was saying on my car due to the problem of space.

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Postby equipped2ripp » September 4th, 2007, 1:41 am

excellent!

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Postby X_Factor » September 4th, 2007, 1:42 am

venum, great post there...
how u'd compare ur old fluid wit the new one?..
and did u use dex III fluid or the PS fluid they sell?

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Postby TurboDrive » September 4th, 2007, 5:54 am

Good Show Chap!

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Postby Morpheus23 » September 4th, 2007, 6:04 am

Great work man.This is 'Sticky' material.

I go do my Ck soon yes. :lol:

Good Job Venum

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Postby trinianouk » September 4th, 2007, 8:01 am

Great Stuff!!! :fadein:

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Postby eliteauto » September 4th, 2007, 8:22 am

great stuff and a proper write-up with pics, this is where the tech forum becomes invaluable, coincidently I have to change the fluid in one of my cars today lol :P

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Postby THE SYNDICATE » September 4th, 2007, 8:31 am

Great work man.This is 'Sticky' material.

^^^^x2 :fadein:

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venum
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Postby venum » September 4th, 2007, 8:42 am

X_Factor wrote:venum, great post there...
how u'd compare ur old fluid wit the new one?..
and did u use dex III fluid or the PS fluid they sell?



Fluid used:

AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid

post updated with this info

Thanx for all the positive feedback guys, but lets not forget Rudman - he was heavily involved

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Rudman
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Postby Rudman » September 4th, 2007, 12:00 pm

^^Awww shucks man...... :oops:

Glad to have helped out, but you took the time and effort to post pics and do a proper write-up (which was well done BTW!... :D )

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Corollaman
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Postby Corollaman » September 4th, 2007, 12:06 pm

Well done dude!

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Postby SUPAstarr » September 4th, 2007, 12:13 pm

Great read !!!

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Postby Maserati » September 4th, 2007, 12:24 pm

gread read and work guys

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Postby ronsin1 » September 4th, 2007, 12:40 pm

venum ah calling you when I ready to change the fluid in the CS :mrgreen:

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