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#401: Author: fras, Location: Tobago

Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:13 pm
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20,000km unless u have an external tranny cooler

#402: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 12:28 pm
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bnrampage, 20,000km is LAW, reconsider ur mech if thats the stuff he suggesting. BTW I jus wanted to confirm the model lancer you own...no biggie
Most of us have given up the rear disc idea

fras i have seen a CS wagon with rear discs but only on the turbo lancers/evo lancers. namely the yellow wagon with EVOLUTION VII on the back Laughing

T7performance, give me more info on that conversion coz a common problem with all CS's are warping rotors...no matter if you grind them they warp again...even the stock discs warping them. so i figure the only solution is to upgrade the rotors.

regards

#403: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 5:13 pm
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fras wrote:

20,000km unless u have an external tranny cooler

external tranny oil cooler and I still change at 20,000km pronto

but you can extend the interval to 25,000km with the cooler

keeping the Lancer IMACULATE

selling next year

#404: Author: fras, Location: Tobago

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:08 pm
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venum wrote:

keeping the Lancer IMACULATE

selling next year

And u talking about me Laughing

I just wanna sell a year earlier... I may buy another tho original manual

#405: Author: T7performance, Location: Southside

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:33 pm
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idlemind wrote:

Basically I checking two brands of rotors brembo and powerslot ..they have both the cross drilled and slotted versions. I'm waiting on a confirmation on fitting email before I get my hopes up though.

EDIT: Same size, bolt on type ... not "big brakes"

#406: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:35 pm
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thanks, please update when you hear anything more

#407: Author: fras, Location: Tobago

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:42 pm
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What size is our rotor disc?
Would the disc from the us lancer work? Cause I found rotors for thoes... same spacing 4*100!

#408: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:04 pm
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fras wrote:

What size is our rotor disc?
Would the disc from the us lancer work? Cause I found rotors for thoes... same spacing 4*100!

wont they warp the same? though atmospheric temperatures are different and it may not be a prominent issue in the US?

Singaporians agree the stock rotors warp..guess we should research some USDM forums and see

#409: Author: teichou, Location: here

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:28 pm
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i changed my drums on the CS to discs
i think the discs came from a cedia wagon and they fit perfectly didn't even have to camber over and i still retained my ABS

if you ain believe ask FRAS
and i did the install myself the only thing thing that needed minor adjustments was the hand brakes cable that attaches directly to the lever
and CK rear discs will work on a CS to the best of my knowledge 'cause i had the choice of either and i chose the one from the cedia wagon (it has pads for the rotor and shoes inside a drum for the e-brakes)

#410: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:04 pm
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^^^ wonderful news for the guys looking to do this conversion

I don't think that anyone should doubt you, cuz you haven't been know to BS around

link some install pics if you can

$$$ averages

FRAS - diesel dreams becoming irresistable - waking up cold sweating thinking bout L's

need to change my paradigm

#411: Author: T7performance, Location: Southside

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:08 pm
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teichou wrote:

i changed my drums on the CS to discs
i think the discs came from a cedia wagon and they fit perfectly didn't even have to camber over and i still retained my ABS

if you ain believe ask FRAS
and i did the install myself the only thing thing that needed minor adjustments was the hand brakes cable that attaches directly to the lever
and CK rear discs will work on a CS to the best of my knowledge 'cause i had the choice of either and i chose the one from the cedia wagon (it has pads for the rotor and shoes inside a drum for the e-brakes)

Hows the handling while braking? wouldn't mind seeing a pic too lol

Alternatively,

If anyone other than me notices the dark spots on those gauges, can you suggest what type of bulb i need? also the "D" gear indicator light doesn't work anymore so i also need to replace that.

Also, how many of the "blue" bulbs would i need to replace ALL behind the gauges

#412: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:52 pm
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ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues

What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 Confused

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 Neutral

jus asking eh pal

#413: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:49 pm
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For the love of CS3's

REAR OF IP

Click for full-size.

Bulbs 1-4 are the main ones that light up the entire IP face

Bulb 5 is your odometer\trip meters

BACKING REMOVED

RIGHT SIDE

Click for full-size.

MIDDLE

Click for full-size.

LEFT SIDE

Click for full-size.

What I cannot understand, is why, when held up to the light, the bulbs labeled NOTHING did not show any particular icon.

I believe the one under the Fog Lamp is the rear fog lamp

idlemind wrote:

ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues

such faith . . . Mr. Green

idlemind wrote:

What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 Confused

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 Neutral

Evo VII's do much more that 180km\h

SDM cars are calibrated higher than their JDM counterparts

JDM cars often have a speed cut at 180km\h, but can easily go past when removed

couple of 2nrs claim (believably) that they have gotten 200km\h + out of their CS3's

I personally have never pushed past 180 km\h on a test run, but she could have gone further

idlemind wrote:

jus asking eh pal

here is definately the place to ask, Its why we are all here - to learn

T7performance as for your question about the bulb, that is a good question.

The bulbs contacts are wrapped onto the bulb holder in a very fine groove, such that when the bulb is placed in its position in the circuit board and locked into place, the wire bulb contact touches\makes contact with the circuit board's contact

to use a bulb here, you will have to gut one , such that it can fit in the bulb holder and wrap around in similar form

the hole for the bulb contact has a very fine bore, so you will need a bulb with a very fine contact

I bought some from Gopaul's Electronics when I needed to change on my CK Lancer. those were just bulbs with wire contacts, so I did not have to gut them. However, their colour went from Blue to Orange in 2 years, so I do not recommend them, although they still light.

The indicator (ABS, oil, SRC etc) bulbs are the same way.

be very careful when removing the IP, as Mitsu didn't make this very easy (a hell of a lot easier on the CK Lancers)

My suggestion:

drop steering as low as it goes, unscrew bezel (2 screws), remove bezel (firmly pulling foward), remove three screws that hold the IP in place, turn the IP downwards (so teh top faces you), unclip both dongles (top left and right) and gentle ease teh IP out from behind teh steering wheel.

the dongles do not have much excess so you need to un-clip them in the small space there is

you have to be very gentle

If you find that the bulb holders are difficult to remove, you can use a screwdriver, as they have a crossed slots on them

to remove the bulb contacts from the bulb holder (first remove teh bulb holder with bulb from teh IP) you can pry the contacts out with a very fin tipped flat-head screwdriver - a jewellers\electronics set is ideal

thaz it, ENJOY !!!

the next time allyuh coming dex or meet me anywhere, allyuh better walk with some Green Sands and LLB, cuz this write up take 2 hrs !

#414: Author: T7performance, Location: Southside

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:31 am
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idlemind wrote:

ah ha, venum is the best man to suggest instrument panel issues

What i want to know is how your thingy goes up to 220 Confused

you calibrate that to actually reach 220? or is really only 180km u reaching? even the evo7s only go up to 180 Neutral

jus asking eh pal

Well it's a SDM lancer and i've squeezed 200k out of it. Maybe if i had normal plugs instead of iridiums Rolling Eyes

i would've gotten more but it certainly is possible. Laughing

Venum, like i don't have a choice but to disassemble this thing twice, i really didn't want to but i don't think 5 bulb alone lighting up the gauges ... because the bottom bright and on top is like 3 dark spots. Are your pics of an IP with white gauges?

#415: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:31 am
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venum, you a boss....doh worry yuh LLB dun booked Mr. Green

Thanks man, good job

#416: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:03 am
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T7performance wrote:

bulb 5 can't light much except for teh odometer

my IP is the normal charcoal coloured

#417: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:47 am
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regarding the evo7 only going up to 180km/h
i was jus refering to the stock evo speedo

#418: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:22 pm
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Can anyone suggest a good performance front disc brake brand for the CS?
Buying tomorow need a response quickly

thanks

#419: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:37 pm
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Hawk as suggested by W2J to me sometime ago

Rudman damaged some CK rotors wit EBC green stuff

good ole Daishin

Wagner

#420: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:40 pm
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venum wrote:

Hawk as suggested by W2J to me sometime ago

He stocks this at his shop???

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