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#1681: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:19 pm
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idlemind wrote:

paint back wuh....i popping out the glass and tossing the housing.

arite padna...jus make sure u doh break d glass thas all....
u find that mirror on amazon or ebay nah?

#1682: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:21 pm
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yep...if i can get my contact in FL to pop out the glass alone for me das better fete

#1683: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:31 pm
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venum wrote:

turbo_beast369 wrote:

what grade oil in the shell you using in the CS3 and what colour is the bottle is it the 5W 40 u speak of?

15W 40 in teh pretty 1L grey bottle

I assume i could use that oil in my 4g15 GDI?
Even though you using it in the cs3.

#1684: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:05 pm
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That oil in the GDI will work better that great

TURBOT u like a flecking lawyer with all them clarifications needed, I feelin like in a commision of enquiry

Reminds me of me . . .

I used the semi-synthetic back then as I was a poor fella in those days, couldn't afford the good stuff, if I had to I would have, but I tried the semi-synth first to see if it would have worked before going to the full synth and it did, my pocket was grateful that it did

For your mild tappet knock case, the full synth mobil1 or shell or castrol or Amsoil or valvoline or chevron or redline or royal purple or whatevr suppose to work

nes123,
Amsoil is highly rated, but I find supply to be too inconsistent to commit to (yes there are powersellers and a few places sellin) but I want to use an oil that I can readily find in MOST parts places whenever I need over the long term

I dont drink alco so LLB or Green Sands is just fine for me

And I avoid aspartme as much as I can

#1685: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:00 pm
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ALL HAIL venum, Laughing

#1686: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:36 pm
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venum,huh who me? lol

and i read that we dont need 5w 50 oil or oils with such varying bodies due to our climate...........the temps dont vary much so we do not need oils with so many additives which allow for such a broad body spectrum.....i think anything less than a 20-30 point variance is the better ones to use..

#1687: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 11:08 pm
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You are right about the temp range of the oil in our climate.

A 20w should be fine in the tropics

But the additives - no

The additives is what increases the quality of the oil and the response/long term performance of the engine

All oils have additives, even good ole Castrol GTX 20W 50, but we know how late generation mitsu engines perform when this oil is used

Rwd box lancer engine (4G12, 12V sohc i think) will work fine with it, but not a 2002 4g94 GDI or 4G18

All Shell oils locally are made from a NP base oil (of a certain contractual specification) and Shell's own additives (which are blended in after)

So there is plain mineral 20W 50 yellow bottle Helix that has additives, different additives to the Castrol GTX, which will have the same effect as the GTX, mention above.

There is also semi-synthetic 15W 40 blue bottle Helix Plus and full-synthetic 5W 50 grey can Helix Ultra which contain different additives than the yellow can Helix, but have an entirely different effect on the engine - why is that?

What is different?

The different body spectrum and the additives

The different body spectrum may not account for the different engine performance (although I believe that it does), but the additives sure do

Oil is not oil

They all do the same damn thing at the end of the day, but the way they do it and the other things they do while doing it is what is responsible for the differnt engine performance

#1688: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:16 am
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venum yuh have meh confused now lol....

so the oil to use in a 4G18 is either Mobile One 5w 50 Full Synthetic OR Shell Helix Ultra 5w 50 Full Synthetic?? I just wanna get rid of my Castrol GTX 20W 50....

#1689: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:40 am
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TURBOT wrote:

so the oil to use in a 4G18 is either Mobile One 5w 50 Full Synthetic OR Shell Helix Ultra 5w 50 Full Synthetic??

Yes

In my above post I was clarifying this

TURBOT wrote:

and i read that we dont need 5w 50 oil or oils with such varying bodies due to our climate

by saying that this is correct, because climate and the body of your oil are related,

but:

TURBOT wrote:

need oils with so many additives which allow for such a broad body spectrum.....i think anything less than a 20-30 point variance is the better ones to use..

isn't

as climate and additive requirement of teh newer Mitsu engines are not related

#1690: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:24 am
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venum wrote

Quote:

the air filter from Sakura AS-1047 works well and allows great air flow

I have that same air filter but my box says A-1047. I dunno if I got a bad one but that filter didnt seal properly in my air box...i tried flippin it and adjusting it so that it will seal but it didnt...so i eventually put some grey silicone to seal it but it still has a slight roar when u rev (like when u have a K&N performance filter)

#1691: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:49 pm
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^^^that is because some air bypassing teh filter

filter not sealing

never had that problem

u sure u got a AS-1047 Question

#1692: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:27 pm
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yeah I know that air bypassing the filter.....as i said i tried puttin some grey silicone on d air box housing in an attempt to fully seal it off...

its says exactly this on my filter box: Sakura A-1047 NOT AS-1047

#1693: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:58 pm
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when u say it was not sealing, I assume it was too thing for the airbix to properly close

the filter is rectangular, so it can only fit one way

also, does your filter have a rubber seal around it Question

#1694: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:19 pm
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I have the same prob with my filter...... it is a tad too small.... Using it like that for the while till I get a dropin k&n

#1695: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:09 pm
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allyuh eh want a lifetime of use from a K&N Question

the Drop-In Filter # is 33-2105

its fits snug, forward and in place is its only natural way.
if u cant clean it on time it can simply turn upside down and the air dam hits the cleaner corner of the correct side always....what is this thing about Sakura yo Question

#1696: Author: ronsin1, Location: bussin' jokes

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:21 pm
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turbo_beast369 wrote:

venum wrote

Quote:

the air filter from Sakura AS-1047 works well and allows great air flow

there are two types of filters that are used. some cars came with a thinner filter some with a thicker one believe it or not the one venum uses is diffrent from the one I use

#1697: Author: fras, Location: Tobago

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:30 pm
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idlemind did u find out what seal the other part# was for?

#1698: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:11 am
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errrr....what Question

#1699: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:22 am
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Yeah ronsin is rite,

There are 2 filters, a thin one and a thicker one. We both buy from the same parts place and the parts guy mentioned something about this a while ago.

But I am not sure if they both carry the 1047 number

I use the same one that the CK lancers use

#1700: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:21 pm
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venum wrote:

Yeah ronsin is rite,

There are 2 filters, a thin one and a thicker one. We both buy from the same parts place and the parts guy mentioned something about this a while ago.

But I am not sure if they both carry the 1047 number

I use the same one that the CK lancers use

well that explains why the S in my part number is missing....now I know what to look for....

venum where u does get them K&N drop in filters?

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