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#1561: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 6:58 pm
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venum,who changed your camshaft and crankshaft seals on your 4G18?

#1562: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:23 pm
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venum, how to change de bulbs in de ac controls? de manual doh have it

#1563: Author: ronsin1, Location: bussin' jokes

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:38 pm
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venum wrote:

I just changed Silver's two cradle bushings and 4 wheel allignment

$985.00 parts (OEM from Federal) and labour together

WTF

I only pay $675 Vat inclusive for this service and yes OEM parts

#1564: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 10:06 pm
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just bought the parts by Federal - $550.00

I did teh change and allignment by Tone's

as for teh seal changes, my mech Robert Chan did it

and I will have to tell u bout the bulb change next week.

will attemt it this weekend.

#1565: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 9:29 am
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ok ill try to do it this weekend too

#1566: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:48 am
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ZeroOne, have you ever pulled out the middle dash to change your stereo deck...that whole piece does come out...is it that hard to get to the bulb? when i pulled down mine to change d deck i never really looked at it nah....

#1567: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 12:39 pm
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When I was installing the deck, I had to remove the AC controls

#1568: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 12:49 pm
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yeah u hadda pull out d A/C control knobs and there are screws behind it....

#1569: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 2:50 pm
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venum, i have to pull dong meh IP and dem fellas say is u to check for instructions....link meh wit some steps nah Neutral

#1570: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 2:57 pm
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guys and girl i now got back home from a morning full of drama.......
first lets start with the good news, so all my cradle arm bushings have been changed front and back as well as the new ball joints.... the boot rubber was also changed..
i havent carried the car to check the alignment as yet but it feels good, it isnt pulling but i guess i should still check it....

yesterday my steering wheel was very light but today with the new parts the steering feels stiff and wonderful Smile

i also notice that the car doesnt have as much body roll on corners......for real i taking corners and the car feels soooooooo much more stable..... all the noises and loose feelings are gone and now the car feels tight and sweet.......if i didnt know better i would swear she was a virgin again....

ok now for the drama...... remember i mentioned i need a new battery?

well i went in to L&D this morn and had the guy test the battery and alternator.... he said everything looked fine and he said the battery just need a full charge so he cleaned up the connections topped up some water and said take her for a drive..... (he said that he would charge it for me but it would take an hour so i opted for the drive )

gone driving enjoying the tightness (sry thats the best i can discribe the feeling as) everything went well , drove down to diego then back to maraval to go and try and get my alignment checked.... the guy said he was short staff and i could come back if i want .... so i tried to leave....tried to bounce starter nada.......sometimes i heard a click , then everytime i try to start the alarm would trip and go crazy and try to lock the dors and open them but they weren't getting enough power to do it....eventually the guy brought the meter and jus so the car start ..... so i decide battery good lemme head to the mechanic.....reached by the mechanic trying to turn in and the rpm dropped and the car shut off and refused to start in the middle of the road . i got a push into the mechanics yard..... he sat in the car and bounce starter, what u know d beyotch start........he say it look like an electrical problem because when u turn on the ac the compressor kept on tripping and voltage dropped in the car.....

so i gone by the electrician she yes SHE did her thing and she decided that the problem was a bad connection on the battery.......i have a small pole battery with the adapters to make it a big pole and the adapter was too big bla bla bla.... she cut it and put it back up .....since then the car seems to be working fine ... i switch off and start back a few times and everything good......

but after i drove out, the car still got that low rpm prob, randomly rpms would drop really low and the car would feel like it wants to cut off.. then all of a sudden it would go back to normal.......
i remember reading about some idle control motor you guys spoke of. but my car doesnt have a problem with it idleing too high..... i remember some one said that their car was ideling too high and too low ..... so i dunno what wrong......

u guys have any idea what that idle problem could be? my mind now run on the possibility that it could be the super gas i use but i dunno i doubt, i using super like a year now or something so and this hasnt really been a problem b4........

Last edited by TURBOT on Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total

#1571: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:07 pm
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venum wrote:

1. take out the 2 screws on the black bezel

2. remove 3 screws that hold teh IP

3. remove the IP - gently

4. disconnect the 2 cable dongles

5. check post on pg 21 and remove bulb #5

6. replace

7. test

and here is a link to the post on page 21
http://forums.trinituner.co...postorder=asc&&start=1560

#1572: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:08 pm
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well its known that once u start playing around withthe battery u tend to get fluctuations in the idle for the next few days.

my suggestion and is up to you whether u are comfortable and confident in the suspension work u jus did would be to run the car hard later, get that rpm up a lil bit. wait for a few days to past with normal driving and monitor the idle it should get back to normal.

well it sounds like u had a weird day, i felt the same when i drove out after my suspension parts was strange...yes the term virgin also did come to mind.

hit us up with the contact for that electrician nah, she seems to know her stuff and long time now i looking to maintain a good electrician

thanks for the link bro, the Ole Fart woulda jus ignore me anyway

#1573: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:21 pm
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sounds like a plan........would take the car out for a lil run later ...tooo much traffic in pos right now......
should i reset the ecu???
and well how long do u leave the poll off to reset the ecu?

reno's auto electrical & repairs
ruby 750 7090
located on salaza street st james
it was cool to see a woman as an electrician ......

idlemind,thanx for the advice

#1574: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:29 pm
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nice !!
il check her out Twisted Evil

resetting the ecu, to be safe, would be to leave the poll off over night.
but dont do that jus yet, run the car first

what i believe happens is without the battery the ecu resets and then your cvt loses all data about your driving habits, so while the car mite seem to be driving odd for u, it is actually learning over again.

#1575: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 7:22 pm
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well i had a successsful attempt at changing the ac bulbs it was really easy just prise out the ac knobs remove screws and pull out dash but be careful with the deck. Then just pull out the bulb, it was enclosed in a holder so you have to pull out the bulb itself. I was surprised just to find 2 blubs behind there.

I have to check maturas tommorrow to see if they have the bulb. It was blown just as i suspected.

It have a woman working by renos? When i went to get my ip check he had a man there working with him.

#1576: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 8:31 am
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TURBOT,

This is prob NOT what you want to hear, but I tgink it is important to mention,

It doesn't seem that you have encountered the last if those electrical problems, they may return to haunt u, I hope not though

I say this because it seems too easy a fix, although logical

The click on ignition with a low battery is expected

The alarm going crazy is not, once u disarm it, it should allow u to start normal

The rpm dropping so low that the car cut off is odd, although expected with idle control motor problems, which u indicate taht u do not have, so this needs to be checked.

Basically, once the car started and idling the dead battery is not supposed to affect it. Several other things may:

Idle control motor
Coil packs
Grounding
Fuel starvation
Leak on vacuum
Fouled plugs
Cam position sensor
Ecu

Several in that list just not applicable in your case, but just listing possiblities

Also the not starting problem can be resolved by cleaned the terminals

So my friend, while this can be one of those simple-problem-weird/complicated-symtoms scenario, do a few extra checks to prevent it happening again

Firstly do a ECU reset - disconnect -ve terminal only for 10min (make sure it doesn't ground on the chassis for that 10 min), then take her for a 1/2 drive

#1577: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 1:29 am
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venum what u mean a 1/2 drive???

thanx for the advice ..... i monitering the car like a jelous boyfriend lol..... today i drove a little i think the low idle happened one time ..... tonight i drove again it didnt happen at all ......so i hoping she just behave......

but i know i have little things to do in order to reduce the likely hood of something bad happening again.
i plan on checking /replacing the plugs tomorrow,,,, dont have a plug wrench( i checked for the tool bag, have no clue where it is, i have the jack handle and wheel spanner loose in the trunk.)

my tappet pan gasket was leaking a little oil onto the block so i took off the exhaust manifold heat shield and purple blasted that SOB... then i checked the bolts on the cover itself and to my suprise they were all in need of a little tightening (think i had the same loose bolt problem on my old car a tercel)......i didnt over tighten them tho... so hopefully oil leak solved.... gonna keep an eye on it......if it still leaks i will try to get another gasket or just clean this one and use a little grey silicone...

ps the exhaust manifold real shitty looking in true ......

#1578: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 8:06 pm
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TURBOT wrote:

venum what u mean a 1/2 drive???

Sorry, I meant a 1/2 hour drive - was replying from my mobile, so small typo.

TURBOT wrote:

i plan on checking /replacing the plugs tomorrow,,,,

my tappet pan gasket was leaking a little oil onto the block

The leaking oil problem from the tappet pan gasket is fairly common with aged gaskets.

If it isn't bad, u will only get leaked oil on the outside of the block, no real problem here, mostly aesthetically displeasing

If it bad, u can get oil in the spark plug chamber, causing the plugs to become fouled.

If u can get another gasket, all's well, if not, grey silicon does a good job (did this on my CK).

#1579: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 8:15 pm
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u write all that from your mobile?? Shocked

#1580: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:03 pm
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has anybody removed their catalytic converter in their CS....I know they manufacture cars with these becuz of emissions and strict regulations and what not...and well no one will check for it in trinidad...is it recommended to do becuz its a restriction in the exhaust systema and maybe gain a small amount of power...who knows......

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