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#1521: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 7:17 pm
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JUS4SHO, i see yuh reading de Zero magazine Laughing

#1522: Author: kampoon,

Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 9:53 pm
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Normally we use to source parts from Half cut, because there are more cheaper and most of the items are import from Japan.

Some owner do drive their cars from Malaysia to Singapore for some new parts upgrade, some of the parts might be cheaper because import duty in singapore are cheaper.

#1523: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 11:18 pm
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JUS4SHO wrote:

any way list of parts ordered for my cs3a @ 85K +
tappet pan gasket
plug seals
high pressure power steering line
inner & outer ends
all bushings (front & back)
brake pads & brake shoes
end links
shocks
all ordered oem from japan so i will fill you fellas in on the final cost
no they are not bad its just good maintenance Mr. Green

show off

but you are right about maintenance, although when it comes to bushings, I adopt a run-till-fail approach,

engine cam and crank seals were changed in teh 100,000km service

believe it or not ppl, Blondie doing 110,000km and I have only changed cradle arm bushings,

I never had cause to change any other suspension parts, every time I take her fo a check, she is all good

alligned twice and cambered once - serious

every time i take her for an allignment, it is good, no need for allignment

even after changing tyres, she never called for allignment

tyres wear evenly

all suspension parts are OEM

I LOVE My MITSU's

as for teh choice of oil @ 116,000km, synthetic

Mobil1 5W-50 or Shell in similar grade

Using the Mobil1 in Blondie since 22,000km till now

Last edited by venum on Mon May 25, 2009 11:24 pm; edited 1 time in total

#1524: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 11:19 pm
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turbo_beast369 wrote:

venum wrote:

did my first oil change and tranny fluid change on the new CS3

Mobil full synt and SPIII fluid

she had mineral oil changed at teh dealer

now the performance with teh Mobil1 is significant and pronounced

acceleration and engine response is much quicker

What grade mobil synthetic oil you used and what kinda mileage you doin....what grade do you recommend in my 4G18 doin 116,000k

i interested as well my 4g18 doing 117000k and i using castrol 20w50 oil..

how much is it ?

#1525: Author: kampoon,

Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 11:44 pm
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I am planing to change my extrator to 4 - 2 -1

here is the pic of my newlly rebuilt extractor (Respray with silver paint)
I am planning to install this extractor soon, take out CAT and replace with a bullet. Am i on the right track ??

Click for full-size.

Izzit recommended to wrap the extractor with thermal wrap ?

#1526: Author: QG, Location: Cross-Crossing, San Fernando

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 1:08 pm
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Help:

My CS taking a long time to start. It's beginning to get worst, I hear a click sound in the engine bay when I turn the ignition but car would not start Sad

When I keep fiddling the key it would then start up like normal.

I bought a new battery about 2 months and alternator is charging at 14 (the tech guy said that's normal).
Any one experience this problem before?

#1527: Author: QG, Location: Cross-Crossing, San Fernando

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 1:13 pm
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kampoon, your extractor looks good.
I recommend you ask the muffler guy if the extractor should get Thermal wrap.

#1528: Author: nes123, Location: 1/4 mile ahead in de game

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 2:34 pm
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QG wrote:

Help:

My CS taking a long time to start. It's beginning to get worst, I hear a click sound in the engine bay when I turn the ignition but car would not start Sad

Ya might want to get ur starter looked at....might be brushes want changing

#1529: Author: QG, Location: Cross-Crossing, San Fernando

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 2:54 pm
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OK nes, thanks

#1530: Author: ronsin1, Location: bussin' jokes

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 4:57 pm
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soloniod may be sticking as well

#1531: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 8:12 pm
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QG, if you are getting trouble to start, fire the ignition about 7-10 times quickly...if it starts then your starter is going. happened to me already and can come about if water gets in the starter like from driving through flood. the good thing is it can be serviced.

welcome kampoon, glad to finally have a contact on that side of the world.
hopefully we can all benefit in the event hard to get parts are needed.
i also hope u can keep up wth our dialect and forum language Smile

btw post some pics or register your CS in your Garage

any ralliart parts over there???

#1532: Author: kampoon,

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:38 pm
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Idlemind,

Yes.....There is some Raliart parts all around ...but must find it out thru shops and second hand shop or our neighbour country Thailand and Singapore....

Is good that some of our parts are compatible with E7/8/9 and Malaysia country make car Proton Wira and Waja.

May i know what currency are you guys discussing here ??? Euro ??

I just added My vechile in the Garage.....

#1533: Author: Shaolin,

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 7:21 am
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QG wrote:

Help:

My CS taking a long time to start. It's beginning to get worst, I hear a click sound in the engine bay when I turn the ignition but car would not start Sad

In addition what what was suggested by idlemind you can also check to see if the car starts faster/better in Neutral vs Park if it does then unplug your inhibitor switch, spray with some contact cleaner, grease it and plug it back in.

Was getting that same problem, when i turn key to start all i getting is a click, i did the above and it hasnt given a problem since. After checking battery, alternator, starter of course...... Rolling Eyes

#1534: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 8:47 am
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idlemind wrote:

QG, if you are getting trouble to start, fire the ignition about 7-10 times quickly...if it starts then your starter is going. happened to me already and can come about if water gets in the starter like from driving through flood. the good thing is it can be serviced

u graduating from nonsense talking punk to sensible speaking punk

some good advise there

that happened to me with teh L200

drove thru a lot of water and then parked up and the engine got cold for some hours

1 - 2 weeks later all I was getting was *click * when i tried to start

removed teh starter and serviced, changed brushes - problem fixed

we linked it to the water, cuz when the starter was opened there was moisture

since then i have driven through water several times, but never allowed teh engine to get cold after Razz

#1535: Author: ronsin1, Location: bussin' jokes

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 10:07 am
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happend to the alternator in my Black CS water penetrated and the enigne was allowed to cool

#1536: Author: QG, Location: Cross-Crossing, San Fernando

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 10:54 am
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That's some good advices there ppl.

Shaolin, I put the lever in neutral as well and same problem.

Friday I will check out the brushes in the starter.

#1537: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 12:23 pm
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one quick question...I find my CS burnin too much gas....on average how much KM do you fellaz get on a full tank of gas being $150-$160 worth from an empty tank. Normal driving that is....occassionally I floor it when I ketch a vapse....

#1538: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 9:21 pm
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on an empty tank (150 premium) i get around 420km.

How do i access the bulbs behind the ac controls? One is blown

#1539: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 2:12 am
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i use super..........its about 100 from almost E to full...............struggle to make 300km Confused

i def think something wrong with that seeing the kinda figures u guys callin.....

#1540: Author: nes123, Location: 1/4 mile ahead in de game

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 2:45 am
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I get 530km on $180 premium. AC using right tru I get 500km

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