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#1481: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Sat May 16, 2009 5:15 pm
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venum wrote:

not with that low mileage

u should se running like stock outta the showroom still

100,000km and over seems like a lot of mileage, but it isn't

300,000 and 500,000, now there's mileage

yeah d car still pullin like normal but i find it burnin a lil 2 much gas....i doh really check how much miles i get to a tank eh....i changed both ignition coils, plugs and wires, service injectors, change air filter, check the pressure from the fuel pump and it was perfect...ran a diagnostic check on engine and tranny all prefect...d only thing i havent done is service throttle body

#1482: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:01 pm
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^^^ spark plug gapping, first check

timing, second

compression third

#1483: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Mon May 18, 2009 1:51 pm
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venum wrote:

^^^ spark plug gapping, first check

timing, second

compression third

how will I check the spark plug gapping...with a feeler guage? and what is the normal gapping?

what will normally reset the timing?

Whats d process in checkin d compression and what is d normal 4G18 cyliner compression?

#1484: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 8:43 am
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another thing...what about the fuel pump filter on d tank on the CS3...has anyone changed theirs or even serviced it...if so at what price? Is there any other fuel filter other than the filter by d tank? Mine was never changed and d car running 6 years now!!!

#1485: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 8:49 am
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hmmmm good question

#1486: Author: QG, Location: Cross-Crossing, San Fernando

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:22 pm
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turbo_beast369 wrote:

venum wrote:

^^^ spark plug gapping, first check

timing, second

compression third

To reset timing, you can use a handheld consult 2.

http://www.search-autoparts...rticleDetail.jsp?id=16170

that link^ shows compression testing

Standard plug gapping is 0.8mm or 1.0mm (i will look up on this and post up the exact size) on most plugs eg. NGK BKR5E etc that comes PRE-GAPPED and ready to use from purchase.
If there are problems encountered, you can widen or narrow to solve the problem.

#1487: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 11:28 pm
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i have a local cs3 lancer i am in the process of changing both bushings on my cradle arms as well as the ball joints........ i ripped one of the rubbers on the ball joint the other day.
i changed the rear bushing and then i realised i had the wrong bushings for the middle........so i had to gett them to press back in the old bushings and put back up the cradles .....i am going with substitute parts....
will put up some pics tomorrow and prices

i already have all the bushings and ball joints, my boot rubber on the right burst so i changing that as well.

#1488: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 8:19 am
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TURBOT....did you get a boot rubber for the ball joint alone to buy?
and where did you get the ball joints to buy...what brand and what price....

#1489: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Wed May 20, 2009 11:15 pm
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i hear they dont sell that so i buy complete balljoints from jurawans in diego martin......the brand is "Three 555 Five". my padna tell me this is the best brand, it cost like 400 for the pair will check the bill tomorrow, they are japanese made... i decided while the cradle arm off might as well change the linkage bushings one time as all the other bushings and ball joints are being changed.....i gonna buy the polyurethane energy suspension ones from W2J....

the bootrubber burst a few days now so i hoping i didnt wait tooo long to change it .........i was wondering if the original clamp can be reused instead of the tie straps.....my mechanic doing the work this time i not doing it again.....

#1490: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 11:01 am
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yeah three 555 is a good brand....once it made in japan I dont mind....if it have taiwan or china then fleck that....

is d stabilizer bar linkage bushings you talkin about right....I wanna change my ball joints in a timing so I would also change my linkage bushings as well. If it's not Three 555 or any other japanese brand then I go hadda save up and buy OEM linkage bushings.

What suspension parts exactly you buyin from W2J?

#1491: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:05 pm
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the linkage bushings

the 4 rubbers to the top of the pic....... getting them in polyurethane from w2j

some background info on my car
local lancer glx
pbm series
milage is 117 000
full 100000 service done at dm belts were still looking new whenn they took them out but they did their time
my radiator went bad a few thousand km's ago dunno how come cuz i only use coolant..... endup buying one from dm for 5000 Confused

got one new in the bamboo couldnt fit..... and was pressed for time so i had no other choice but to buy from them.....

#1492: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 8:53 am
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TURBOT wrote:

endup buying one from dm for 5000 Confused

got one new in the bamboo couldnt fit..... and was pressed for time so i had no other choice but to buy from them.....

i was getting one complete with dual fans for $1200.00 used in good condition

allyuh need to start calling we boy Bella

but sometime when yuh jus don't have time to hunt around, the xtra $$$ is worth teh convenience

#1493: Author: idlemind, Location: Shifting with no clutching

Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:30 am
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just a word of advice on the polyurethane rubbers.
yes they going to stand up stronger than the oem and are better priced but you going to get a stiffer, harder ride.

#1494: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 5:03 pm
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^^^ u adtually saying that Question

#1495: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 5:55 pm
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Fellas ah get meh AC fix. It had a leak by 2 valves. The evaporator, condensor, dryer needed servicing/cleaning. Had to regas and he put in some nitrogen somewhere. Nitrogen expensive costs about 700.

Any way total job costs about 1400 and im sure that the ac wukkin better than stock now.

Best part is that i got it done on aripita avenue about a stone trow away from where i live.

#1496: Author: ronsin1, Location: bussin' jokes

Posted: Fri May 22, 2009 10:12 pm
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^^^^ you got robbed man Nitrogen is like $65.00 for a 100lb cylinder

the gauge it self tat is used to discharge the Nitrogen is around $1500.00 but that should not affect your price

the most you should have paid for the pressure test is $200.00

and you think you have a leak and you not sure where it commingfrom all you need to do is check the open the caps to the pressure ports if you hear a little hiss and then stops you have leaking valves

BTW if anyone having any problems with you A/C PM me can put you all onto someone that can fix it at a mos reasonable cost

#1497: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 1:16 am
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mechanic said the rubbers on the car in good condition still so i just going to use those for the time being gonna hold off on the poly

Click for full-size.

ball joint looks really well built ..... suprisingly heavy.....

Click for full-size.

#1498: Author: ZeroOne,

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 10:45 am
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ronsin1, i did post asking for a ac tech earlier, im sure i didnt get robbed as the guy is a reputable person. I dont know exactly what he did with nitrogen tho.

#1499: Author: turbo_beast369,

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:03 pm
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TURBOT,
In the last pic u posted what are the rubbers in the center for?
I know the one on the right is a velocity joint boot rubber.....

#1500: Author: TURBOT, Location: sniffin nos by drags

Posted: Sun May 24, 2009 12:15 pm
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They are the small bushings that go on the middle of the cradle arm .... Between the ball joint and the big rear bushing.....

I have to get a plug wrench and a gapping tool.. I never cleaned the plugs since I have the car...and I dunno when last dm changed them....

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