trinituner.com :: View topic - brakes pad noise

through

[^/[Print]\]
Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4 Next :| |:
trinituner.com -> TECH STUFF

#1: brakes pad noise Author: honda4life, Location: bleh

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 9:15 pm
—
i'm hearing a screeching sound when i'm using my brakes
i've been told its because the brakes pads have dust accumulating in the groove
what exactly causes the screeching?

#2: Author: God Bless the Black Top*, Location: looking for ole skool JDMs!

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 1:11 am
—
time to change your brake pads? there's little attachments at the ends of your brake pads that rub against your rotor signalling that it's time to change your brake pads. other than that, the brake pads your using are just generating too much dust which is giving on and off squeaking.

#3: Author: honda4life, Location: bleh

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:26 am
—
so therefore change the brake pads or is there a way to get rid of the dust to stop the screeching

#4: Author: God Bless the Black Top*, Location: looking for ole skool JDMs!

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 1:13 pm
—
the dust in the brake pads should only squeak occasionally, i.e. once in every 3 traffic lights stops, depending on how you're breaking, the noise won't be very loud. but if it's a constant squeak from a standstill start, till say you get up to 60-70 kmph. then you gotta change your brake pads.

#5: Author: Rx, Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 2:27 pm
—
purchase a reputable brand next time the car is due for brake pads change .

#6: Author: X2, Location: Deciding on a compressor...

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 5:37 pm
—
Well it's prolly ur brake wear indicators scratching the rotor.

BUT when u install a new pad and have to place the new pad onto the shim, there is a product called 'brake grease' that should be applied between the pad and the shim, the brake grease prevents periodic squealing from pads that often happens regardless of pad brand. If you don't put this grease on, you will likely hear squealing from the majority of pads used thruout their useable life.

#7: Author: blazing,

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 5:53 pm
—
in addition to putting the brake grease before the shim, you should apply some to all the moving parts of the caliper i.e. caliper bolts, ends, etc

and choose a good pad, while you at it you can get those pads with built in shims etc.

#8: Author: krack korn, Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701'

Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 10:18 pm
—
If u don't have brake grease, a good anti sieze like copper slip works well, paste between shim and pads, between shim and caliper and on the edges of disk pads where they fit into the caliper. Use only brake grease (rubber compatible grease) in contact with rubber parts. Do not get grease or anti sieze onto the braking contact surface of the rotor or pads.

To answer your earlier question, yes u can take out pads and clean the groove with wire, small screwdriver etc it sometimes becomes filled with dust. If your pads don't have groves in the middle u can cut groves with a saw or cutting disk on an angle grinder. A table tile cutter is d real ginger beer. Just don't cut to closer than 2mm from the steel backing of the pad whatever method u use. U can also take the glazing off the pad by rubbing on a sheet of sand paper on a very flat surface eg. glass. Use the same sandpaper to deglaze rotors by making small circular motions on rotor. Remember u are just deglazing not taking off lots of material. Clean pads and rotors of any residual abrasives from sandpaper with comp air or mild detergent and water, latter is better if u had any grease/oil on rotors and pads.

Brake squeaking is a somewhat complex phenomenon. Have u ever dragged a table or chair on the floor and it squeaked? Smoother the floor worse it is. Same thing, friction tends to cause high frequency vibration in sliding surfaces, the brake pad material and shims help to absorb this and this is why the grease helps, also the reason the groove helps, in addition to assisting with clearing out brake dust it prevents the propagation of sound and associated harmonics by interrupting the surface of contact, so when the groove becomes filled.... noise again.

As previously mentioned it could be wear indicators. wear indicators are usualy only on one pad per pair and usually the inner one, sometimes uneven pad wear occurs due to rotor condition, sticking pins/piston so the other one could be worse. Inspect promptly!

#9: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:14 am
—
this is the first time I am hearing bout deglazing your rotors with sandpaper

is this advised?

I know about deglazing the brake pad with sandpaper

but the rotors?

will this damage the rotors?

please shed some more light on this

also brake grease

Tell me more about this brake grease - first time I am hearing bout this

#10: Author: blazing,

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 2:58 am
—
rotor deglazing is recommended with every brake change

and the brake grease/caliper grease is a special formula that absorbs vibration and ultimately noise. Apply it to the caliper bolts, shims and any other moving parts. The caliper boplts on most cars come with brake grease on them, that is why they say that you shouldnt wipe the bolt clean and re-install.

#11: Author: Rx, Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:35 am
—

krack korn wrote:

If u don't have brake grease, a good anti sieze like copper slip works well, paste between shim and pads, between shim and caliper and on the edges of disk pads where they fit into the caliper. Use only brake grease (rubber compatible grease) in contact with rubber parts. Do not get grease or anti sieze onto the braking contact surface of the rotor or pads.

To answer your earlier question, yes u can take out pads and clean the groove with wire, small screwdriver etc it sometimes becomes filled with dust. If your pads don't have groves in the middle u can cut groves with a saw or cutting disk on an angle grinder. A table tile cutter is d real ginger beer. Just don't cut to closer than 2mm from the steel backing of the pad whatever method u use. U can also take the glazing off the pad by rubbing on a sheet of sand paper on a very flat surface eg. glass. Use the same sandpaper to deglaze rotors by making small circular motions on rotor. Remember u are just deglazing not taking off lots of material. Clean pads and rotors of any residual abrasives from sandpaper with comp air or mild detergent and water, latter is better if u had any grease/oil on rotors and pads.

Brake squeaking is a somewhat complex phenomenon. Have u ever dragged a table or chair on the floor and it squeaked? Smoother the floor worse it is. Same thing, friction tends to cause high frequency vibration in sliding surfaces, the brake pad material and shims help to absorb this and this is why the grease helps, also the reason the groove helps, in addition to assisting with clearing out brake dust it prevents the propagation of sound and associated harmonics by interrupting the surface of contact, so when the groove becomes filled.... noise again.

As previously mentioned it could be wear indicators. wear indicators are usualy only on one pad per pair and usually the inner one, sometimes uneven pad wear occurs due to rotor condition, sticking pins/piston so the other one could be worse. Inspect promptly!

is this recommended?

#12: Author: X2, Location: Deciding on a compressor...

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:49 pm
—
U shouldn't 'deglaze' the rotors with sandpaper, you may get an uneven surface. You should get them cut on a lathe at a machine shop to ensure they surface is flush... doing it by hand is just a rig.

#13: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:53 pm
—
ok

thanx for the advice on rotor deglazing

anyone else?

so what grade of sandpaper do you recommed?

how do I deglaze the rotors?

Mitsu Bros a lil advice here

#14: Author: Rx, Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 3:23 pm
—

X2 wrote:

U shouldn't 'deglaze' the rotors with sandpaper, you may get an uneven surface. You should get them cut on a lathe at a machine shop to ensure they surface is flush... doing it by hand is just a rig.

Now this making real sense.................. Exclamation

#15: Author: honda4life, Location: bleh

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 7:47 pm
—
damn
thanks guys
lots of info there
whats a good brand of brake pads??

#16: Author: krack korn, Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701'

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:31 pm
—
venum, I use anywhere from about 400 to 120 grit on the rotors and pads. no problems to date. Take a read of this document

www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconnect/technicalservices/downloads/3221.pdf

Them fellas getting tie up with 'resurfacing' and 'deglazing'. my recommendation to deglaze is on a flatish smoothish rotor that does not require resurfacing. As u can see from the above article sand paper is used to finish the job after machining on a lathe or on the car like what TONE does. The only way to achieve a non directional surface mark is with circular motion of the sand paper or if machining is done by 'Blanchard Grinding'. Not many shops have d equipment or willingness to do this for brake rotors. That is the condition that u recieve a new rotor in, Blanchard Ground.

The most important time to deglaze is when changing the type of pad, ie. different brand or different type within same brand. Essentially whenever the formulation of the pad material changes.

Deglazing will ensure your pads bed in properly if u follow the bedding in proceedure for the type of pad u choose.

If u resurface your rotors every time u will soon need new rotors, this may not be a problem for some who have a paper mill but for me every dollar saved is a dollar earned.

#17: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:54 pm
—
krackorn

thanx for the link

you are right about the finishing touches being applied with the sandpaper

I do believe that the guys are thinking about re-surfacing

I do not have to re-surface

as a matter of fact, after I switched to the GIC brake pads that Mitsu_Exec recommended (previously using daishin) the noises decreased significantly.

they only make noise sometimes and other times they do not make a sound.

so I'm a bit confused

I have yet to isolate the conditions under which they make noise, which is sort of a metallic scratching noise or a squeak (similar to the change pad squeak, jus not as high pitched)

si I was thinking bout the rotors

when you run your fingers along the rotors, it feels relatively smooth, not glass smooth, but vert slightly rough

any more advice?

#18: Author: blazing,

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:05 pm
—
^sound like yuh shims rubbin

#19: Author: krack korn, Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701'

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:08 pm
—
Use the brake grease, ask around, plenty auto parts place have it, if yuh in south ah know Checks on cipero street have it for sure, called brake grease, rubber grease or rubber compatible grease.

I find the anti sieze more cost effective for all non rubber applications, get the rubber grease service your pins and the holes where they go, put new grease ,all areas I mentioned before, and see what happen. Noise from the pins is typically a clicking sound doh ah just telling yuh to do dat while yuh have everything out one time. GIC is semi metallic and u may not be able to eleminate the odd squeak.

#20: Author: venum, Location: San Fernando

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:56 pm
—
I feel I will get the grease

and check the shims when I grease the calipers and bolts

trinituner.com -> TECH STUFF

output generated using printer-friendly topic mod. All times are GMT - 4 Hours

Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4 Next :| |: Page 1 of 4