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#1: help with 20v hard starting Author: mikeae91,

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:35 pm
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my car hard starting not sure why.

i changed my fuel filter and cleaned the iscv valve same probs i even sprayed some cleaner in the throttle body

in order for it to start i have to mash gas while starting and then it starts and run good.

i adjusted the tps also and same problem

its a 20v st manual
which part the tps supposed to be set and airflow screw.

#2: Author: vans, Location: where ever d $ is

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:48 pm
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check plugs, plug wires ,fuel pump, your battery good?

#3: Author: vans, Location: where ever d $ is

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:49 pm
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this only start after you install the free flow ?

#4: Author: mikeae91,

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:29 pm
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i add a resonator not make it free flow and no before i did it

#5: Author: vans, Location: where ever d $ is

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:14 pm
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examine items i listed and get back to me, could either be fuel or electrical

#6: Author: Hook, Location: Wondering why that fag is so obsessed with getting access to my facebook.

Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 11:13 pm
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first u said this

mikeae91 wrote:

i adjusted the tps also and same problem

then you asked this?

mikeae91 wrote:

which part the tps supposed to be set and airflow screw.

soooooooooo....are you in the habit of interfering with sensors without knowing how to get them back to factory settings?

*sigh*

get a feeler gauge and a multitester

facing the engine with the TPS unplugged, the pins on the sensor from the firewall come forward are

VC
VTA
IDL
E2

take the feeler gauge and stick it between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever (should be a squeeze to get at them between the intake plenum and the ITB's but it's your fault for interfering in the first place)

u should be getting these resistance readings for these clearances

0mm 0.3-6.3kΩ between VTA-E2
WOT 1.8-11.5kΩ between VTA-E2

0.8mm ≤0.5kΩ between IDL-E2
1.0mm ∞ between IDL-E2

- 3.5-6.5kΩ between VC-E2

for the AFM, there's usually a stamp somewhere on the top near the screw that should say 43 or 45 or whatever...this tells u how far from the top of the screw hole the screw head should be..it's usually in the neighbourhood of about 1.3-1.5mm

this is NOT an idle adjust screw BTW and should not be tampered with unless u know what you're doing...it is an Idle Air Bypass Screw and meters air past the vane on the AFM at idle to enrich/lean out the AFR at idle only

I dunno what to tell u about that hard start nuh.....when last u serviced your injectors?

any error codes BTW?

#7: Author: mikeae91,

Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:36 pm
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aight cool its working good now thanks for the info

#8: Author: Hook, Location: Wondering why that fag is so obsessed with getting access to my facebook.

Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:43 pm
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Laughing

#9: Author: vans, Location: where ever d $ is

Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:46 pm
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good to hear

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