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#41:  Author: audioholic big D PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:47 pm
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I don't mean ta sound like a total noob but can someone explain the BIG 3 plz .... i never came across it before ....much appreciated

#42:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:58 pm
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audioholic big D wrote:
I don't mean ta sound like a total noob but can someone explain the BIG 3 plz .... i never came across it before ....much appreciated


google it or search this forum.. there's lots of info in it..

#43:  Author: audioholic big D PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:06 pm
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cool thanks

#44:  Author: ChristianRD PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:12 pm
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^ what an ironic username you got there Laughing

#45:  Author: ChineyLocation: Maracas,St.Joseph PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:56 pm
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Laughing Laughing Laughing

for real eh


so spam..big 3 yet?

#46:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:15 am
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have a look for those who don't know..


#47:  Author: SR PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:49 am
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spam wrote:
^^^ YEA SR that is the battery and like rovin said they came with the car really

so i think i would have to switch out the batteries first and then see how that hold up and then the alternator would have to switch?

goin to the other forum to see who have battery for sale stupes.

Shocked Shocked Shocked


now also did anyone check the condotion of each battery by itself??

1 bad battery in the loop can cause problems

suggest load testing each battery to compare battery condition and status

#48:  Author: madman.devin PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:30 am
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May b I'm expecting to much from rockford but i think thats a pretty shiddy install.
Guess it's just to give guys an idea of what to do..

3stagevtec wrote:
have a look for those who don't know..


#49:  Author: SR PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:38 am
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shh

but it give the basics on what to do for the big 3

alternator wire should have been loomed at least due to length and location

#50:  Author: audioholic big D PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 1:00 pm
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ChristianRD wrote:
^ what an ironic username you got there Laughing


its a learning experience bro doh be hatein lol

#51:  Author: audioholic big D PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 1:06 pm
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3stagevtec wrote:
have a look for those who don't know..


THANKs 3stage i didn't know there was a name for that but i know exactly what it is they're doing i did it to in my car .....again thanks

#52:  Author: spam PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:31 pm
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SR wrote:
spam wrote:
^^^ YEA SR that is the battery and like rovin said they came with the car really

so i think i would have to switch out the batteries first and then see how that hold up and then the alternator would have to switch?

goin to the other forum to see who have battery for sale stupes.

Shocked Shocked Shocked


dont spend any money as yet

i need to see the system and do some checks and we can contact kinetic for advice based on what you already have

i have good contacts there on the technical side


well changing the batteries is the last step i am doin thing piece by peice and recordin my progress.

today i did the BIG 3 upgrade and YES it made a difference in the voltage

which now rest with the car on between 14 - 14.2 voltage but it drops

very low **11.9 - 12.2** very fast. My next step would be to charge

each and every battery in the system and try them again.

PS. i dont have a battery charger so if anyone wit a charger is willing to

help out please let me know.

Shocked Shocked Shocked

#53:  Author: spam PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:37 pm
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SR wrote:
spam wrote:
^^^ YEA SR that is the battery and like rovin said they came with the car really

so i think i would have to switch out the batteries first and then see how that hold up and then the alternator would have to switch?

goin to the other forum to see who have battery for sale stupes.

Shocked Shocked Shocked


now also did anyone check the condotion of each battery by itself??

1 bad battery in the loop can cause problems

suggest load testing each battery to compare battery condition and status



explain load testing ? i would have to try this over the weekend

can i google that ?

Shocked Shocked Shocked

#54:  Author: SR PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:56 pm
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have a read

http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa101604c.htm

any good auto electrician should have a battery load tester

#55:  Author: spam PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:20 am
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QUESTION:

if i hook up my amps and run the rcas to them but i dont put any speakers

if i raise volume and stuff would it still pull current and show a drop in voltage ?



Shocked Shocked Shocked

#56:  Author: kurpal_v2Location: shaking down my bhaji tin PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:51 am
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spam wrote:
QUESTION:

if i hook up my amps and run the rcas to them but i dont put any speakers

if i raise volume and stuff would it still pull current and show a drop in voltage ?



Shocked Shocked Shocked



Interesting line of thought spam, I always took for granted that it shouldnt show a drop in voltage beacuse no output is being taken from the amp but at the same time signal is being feed and power also so on one hand yes and another no... The things we take for granted eh Embarassed

#57:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:00 am
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most amps draw about 1 ampere of current to remain on.. and they usually pull a small surge of current just to turn on as well.. after that small surge, current draw will remain at ~1A until you connect some subs to it..

#58:  Author: theblitzLocation: South Trinidad PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:05 am
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spam wrote:
QUESTION:

if i hook up my amps and run the rcas to them but i dont put any speakers

if i raise volume and stuff would it still pull current and show a drop in voltage ?


No, nothing like if there were a load on the amps output.

#59:  Author: spam PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:23 pm
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UPDATE:

well from those who know me know that i always diggin up in my system especially when something not right.

so anyways like i said b4 this system not much different from the one i had b4 and wit only 2 spv70 my voltage would be between 12.5 - 13.2 and high volumes. my current system has 4 batteries and wont hold voltage not even at mid volume.

i tried everything from higher rpm, BIG 3 upgrade, cap *yes i tried the cap* nothing worked.i also test each individual battery and all were fine, so being me i scrap all the amps out so i could take a look at the wiring. so i checked from the amps go back and the only "problem" i could see was, the wire running from the alternator ran to distribution block where the batteries and amps were also connected.

at first i was like that should be ok then i started askin myself questions, WAT IF WHEN THE BASS HITS IT SUCKS THE CURRENT FROM THE ALTERNATOR FIRST INSTEAD OF THE BATTERIES ? that would explain the big drop in the engine rpm when the bass hits. thinkin bout that i also scrap all the wires and started fresh.

i ran the alternator wire to 1 battery connected all 4 like b4 and then ran the power wire to the distribution block where the amps would feed from. after i hooked everything up i bring my amps to test.

started the car to see a nice 14.4 on the meter chose a song that i knew always went down to 11.8....so i chose the song pause the music and crank it up to playin volume. and waited for the bass to kick in. to my surprise i when i checked the meter i saw 12.5 -12.7 nothing below. i tested a few other songs to make sure and the voltage is indeed holdin up.

the bass also songs alot more powerful and stiff now.



Shocked Shocked Shocked

#60:  Author: spam PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:28 pm
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would the level of your gains also contribute to the amps pulling more power ?

Shocked Shocked Shocked



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