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#21: Author: Chiney, Location: Maracas,St.Joseph

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:25 pm
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^ and if thats the case...well the batteries wont even charge back good ... can end up causing more in the long run..

even if casper sticking with the big 3, u shuda stick with your system, .... as its always mentioned and its 100% true.. a system that big bro, shud have the current to back it up b4 u even think of jamming it out...

#22: Author: theblitz, Location: South Trinidad

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:33 pm
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buh spam u cud do the big 3 urself...... it will help considerably together with your increasing idle speed. Its not hard. Were you planning on going full 16V system with those batteries? Please say none of your 16V compatible amps are currently connected to the 16V poles Neutral

#23: Author: spam,

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:40 pm
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so wat alyuh sayin is that even if i usin the 12 volt part of the batteries i have to charge them wit 16 - 18 volts ?

alyuh sure bout that ?

cuz how i see it is if i hooked up to the 12v plates and givin it 16 - 18v that not soundin right at all.

ah man tellin me put a cap and it would make a big difference and put less strain on the alternator.

anybody have a 5 - 15 farad cap i could borrow to prove a point ?

Shocked

#24: Author: Chiney, Location: Maracas,St.Joseph

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:55 pm
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doe ur big 3 do ur big 3 do ur big 3

borrow the cap after

#25: Author: casper, Location: CrEePeRs!!!...45 and counting

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:10 pm
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ur problem with low voltage is caused when ur bass comes in...so a cap might help a bit...it will give u the extra burst of current for when the bass hit and hopefully might stabilize the voltage a lil better till the bassline rests and gives the batteries and cap a breather to start back recharging again...

u wont see any drastic change with the cap but it might more help stabilize the voltage....not raise it...if u getting a cap...get a respected brand like tsunami or somn...i dont really trust the stingers and soundstreams much

#26: Author: noyztoyz, Location: all over

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:04 pm
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how come you manage to put 2 cifero 12 volt alternators and 16 volt batteries?

#27: Author: spam,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:39 am
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the batteries are 12/16 volts

you can use any one

i was planning to run 16v on bass and 12 for the mids and car but decided to run the 12 right tru

Shocked

#28: Author: DJ Q, Location: 137.9 dB

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:19 am
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big 3
big 3
big 3

#29: Author: Chiney, Location: Maracas,St.Joseph

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:21 am
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so why are we forgetting the baics??? Rolling Eyes

#30: Author: 3stagevtec, Location: killing two stones with one bird...

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:38 am
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spam wrote:

so wat alyuh sayin is that even if i usin the 12 volt part of the batteries i have to charge them wit 16 - 18 volts ?

alyuh sure bout that ?

cuz how i see it is if i hooked up to the 12v plates and givin it 16 - 18v that not soundin right at all.

ah man tellin me put a cap and it would make a big difference and put less strain on the alternator.

anybody have a 5 - 15 farad cap i could borrow to prove a point ?

Shocked

this is how i understand it.. you need to send about 18V to the 16V terminals of your 12/16V battery to properly charge ALL cells..

if you only have the 12V section connected, then the cells that make up the 12V section will charge / operate properly.. BUT the extra cells that add up to the 16V will get run down / eventually damage..

those batteries are made up of 2V cells i believe (i could be wrong)

so 6 2V cells in series will give you a 12V battery.. and add another 2 2V cells in series will make the 16V section..

a capacitor is only a temporary energy storage device.. it has to collect energy from your electrical system first before it can be of any assistance.. in that sense, it will not ease the load on your alternators..

because of its fast discharge capability, it will help abit on the heavy bass notes.. but if you think about it, spend that same money on an extra battery and you will get ALOT more energy storage that will help greatly with long term play.. also, batteries produce energy through chemical reactions, a capacitor cannot do that..

#31: Author: spam,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:40 am
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^^^ stupes @ the chargin the 16v side too

i feel is bess i just change out these batteries and go back wit meh stinger Very Happy

i doh wanna believe that this system pullin so much power compared to wat

i had b4

the first system had same 15" atomic 3000, 1 elemental design nine.2x 1 nine.4 and a soundstream 1000.2 and 2 spv 70 and stock alternator 80amp

and yes BIG 3

and my voltage never drop below 13.2 not even wit car off

so wtf like the batteries is the problem ah what ? stupes

i will try the BIG 3 as soon as casper stop stickin lol

Shocked

#32: Author: Chiney, Location: Maracas,St.Joseph

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:05 am
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wen u do..lets know if any change waz noticed..

#33: Author: theblitz, Location: South Trinidad

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:33 am
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as 3stagevtec said.... cap don't make sense for u.

How about ditching one of the 12V alts u have in favor of a good alt for the 16V system? Run the 12V alt as normal and the 16V alt to the 16 battery bank only. Your starting battery will be a separate 12V battery like normal, charging like normal. ONLY your amps gonna run off the 16V system.

This is easy and effective since I think the ground is common. (somebody correct me if I'm wrong about the ground thing...)

#34: Author: spam,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:48 am
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the amps cant take 16v

Shocked

#35: Author: DJ Q, Location: 137.9 dB

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:52 pm
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DJ Q wrote:

big 3
big 3
big 3

x 3

#36: Author: SR,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:30 pm
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is his the battery you are running?

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/product.asp?P=KHC16V&C=1
Kinetik HC16V Power Cell

if your amps are not running at 16 volts then clearly you have been advised incorrectly on purchasing this model battery

based on you total current requirments it adds up to 500 amps

at 12 volts that equates to 6000 watts

using kinetics power calculater
it recomends replacing your stock battery with a KHC 1400 or whatever is the biggest that fits the stock batteyr holder and 3 KHC2000

i quote
When replacing your existing battery, wire the vehicles positive wiring harness to the positive terminal on the power cell, wire the negative wiring harness to the negative terminal on the power cell. For additional power cells near your amplifier installation, run one positive wire from your starting battery or new replacement starting power cell to one of your Kinetik HC Power Cell positive terminal. Run one negative wire from your starting battery (or ground to vehicle chassis if necessary) to the negative terminal on the same Kinetik HC Power Cell. If adding more than one Kinetik HC Power Cell, continue to connect each power cell together in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative) until all power cells are connected. Wire your equipment as suggested by the manufacturer either directly to the Kinetik HC Power Cell(s) near your equipment or to your distribution blocks, etc... Refer to your users manual for wiring gauge size and length suggestions.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/powercalc.asp

as far as i know the 16 volts series batteries ar for SPL use and not daily playing systems

i am not going to argue here with any of the battery experts on this forum

this is my opinion and based on facts from the manufacturer of the battery and what they reommend as well as my own technical backgorund and experience in this field

peple need t understand the difference between products designed for everyday usage as oppose to what is used for competition

a 16volt or higher system is not for your daily driver but for pure spl vehicles

a good high amperage alternator combined with a good matched set of battiers preferably with external controlled regulating set at idle at around 14.4 volts on the load should do fine

stock cifero alternators wont cut it for your system event though you have them parallelled they are intenally regulated and once it detects the other at a higher voltage they will shut down on the charge rate

#37: Author: (...Rovin...), Location: Chaguanas

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:14 pm
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well he didnt buy d batts & alts after : that came with d vehicle when he bought it ...

#38: Author: spam,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:44 pm
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^^^ YEA SR that is the battery and like rovin said they came with the car really

so i think i would have to switch out the batteries first and then see how that hold up and then the alternator would have to switch?

goin to the other forum to see who have battery for sale stupes.

Shocked

#39: Author: theblitz, Location: South Trinidad

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:55 pm
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doh buy no used battery wda wrong wit u lol

an hard luck dey... I assumed ur amps are 16V capable since u have these batteries.

#40: Author: SR,

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:17 pm
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spam wrote:

^^^ YEA SR that is the battery and like rovin said they came with the car really

so i think i would have to switch out the batteries first and then see how that hold up and then the alternator would have to switch?

goin to the other forum to see who have battery for sale stupes.

Shocked

dont spend any money as yet

i need to see the system and do some checks and we can contact kinetic for advice based on what you already have

i have good contacts there on the technical side

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