upgrading "big 3"
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#41:  Author: kurpal_v2Location: shaking down my bhaji tin PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:59 pm
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I have a fear of having too big terminal holes..



Also fear of alternator failure(them thing na cheap).


SSC i was just asking if you ever did any cars big 3 with 0awg..

#42:  Author: theblitzLocation: South Trinidad PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:06 pm
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alt won't fail because the 'current pipe' from it is larger.... it will if you demand too much of it. With even 4AWG you can demand too much from a stock alt.


Anyway, I gonna do over mine with 0 or 2 b4 month's end since the 4AWG that's there came with the car and is old looking and getting stiff. Bigger alt too is the main reason.

#43:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:18 pm
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kurpal_v2 wrote:
I wanna use 0awg to eliminate any possible bottlenecks within the charging system but Ive read some stuff like this

Quote:

The biggest problem with output studs melting is actually the connector that you use. 99% of all 1/0 crimp-on cable ends have a 8mm hole in them. When you use a 8mm hole on a 6mm stud, the contact surface area is GREATLY reduced. This creates a restriction in current flow, and subsequently a hot spot that can burn up.



So the question that comes to my mind is should I get 4awg wire? I dont want to cause I have a lot of 0awg sitting around.


just read the bold part, ignore everything else.. you misread what they are talking about..

with ANY size wire, if there is an improper connection / slack connection / inadequately sized connector etc, that will cause an area of higher resistance, that section of high resistance will become heated when there is large current flow through the wire..

larger diameter wire has less resistance overall, which means more current transfer and less heat in the wire..

#44:  Author: kurpal_v2Location: shaking down my bhaji tin PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:34 pm
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^^ Got a solution gonna try it and pass by bicks to see if they have rav4 alts just in case.. Very Happy

#45:  Author: theblitzLocation: South Trinidad PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:48 pm
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obviously you won't have a slack connection in ur big 3.... yuh mad owat Laughing

#46:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:04 pm
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kurpal_v2 wrote:
^^ Got a solution gonna try it and pass by bicks to see if they have rav4 alts just in case.. Very Happy


if you need any help in soldering up the connections, lemme know..

i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting.. Wink

#47:  Author: kurpal_v2Location: shaking down my bhaji tin PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:29 pm
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Quote:
i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting.




Dude that is the plan self...what you doing this weekend? Gimme a call.

#48:  Author: southside connections PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:54 pm
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or you can head to any eltrical store and buy copper ring terminals

#49:  Author: kurpal_v2Location: shaking down my bhaji tin PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:58 pm
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blank terminals?

#50:  Author: southside connections PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:00 pm
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but wait

that what u sad there

Quote:
i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting.


wont that come like putting a 20amp fuse and another 60amp fuse b4 it?

i don;t think that will solve the problem, because the the original ring terminal remains the same,and the washer will just become an extension of the alternator's contact

also,the more anything you put between there, you increase resistance right?

#51:  Author: theblitzLocation: South Trinidad PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:00 pm
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in the design of the alternators is it even possible that the studs are of adequate conductivity for its size and not be a restriction causing melt down?

And more over... for a stock alt he eh hadda worry bout nutting Confused

#52:  Author: Dj_BeeLocation: Causin DAMAGE PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:01 pm
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Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires

#53:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:11 pm
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Dj_Bee wrote:
Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires


get a digital multimeter, set it to DC Voltage, place the positive lead on your alternator output terminal and place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal..

the meter will now read the voltage drop across the alternator output wire..

turn on as much electrical load in your vehicle as possible (e.g. high beams, AC, crank up the music etc) and note the voltage drop you see.. anything over 0.3 - 0.5V of drop means you gotta upgrade the wire.. if it reads very close to zero, your wires are of adequate size..

#54:  Author: 3stagevtecLocation: killing two stones with one bird... PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:15 pm
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southside connections wrote:
i don;t think that will solve the problem, because the the original ring terminal remains the same,and the washer will just become an extension of the alternator's contact

also,the more anything you put between there, you increase resistance right?


the wire terminal will be touching both the alternator output stud and the nut to hold it down.. increase the contact area between either two and the ring terminal and the overall resistance will drop..

longer wire = more resistance
thicker wire = less resistance

in this case we are trying to make the wire 'thicker' in a sense..


-----------------------------------------------------

and by the way, this should only be of concern when using those ultra high output alternators.. you wouldn't have any issues with most factory alternators..

#55:  Author: Dj_BeeLocation: Causin DAMAGE PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:11 pm
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3stagevtec wrote:
Dj_Bee wrote:
Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires


get a digital multimeter, set it to DC Voltage, place the positive lead on your alternator output terminal and place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal..

the meter will now read the voltage drop across the alternator output wire..

turn on as much electrical load in your vehicle as possible (e.g. high beams, AC, crank up the music etc) and note the voltage drop you see.. anything over 0.3 - 0.5V of drop means you gotta upgrade the wire.. if it reads very close to zero, your wires are of adequate size..


kool, ill check it when the rain eases up



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