| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author
|
Message |
honda4life 3NE 2NR for life
Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Tech posts: 197 Location: bleh My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 9:15 pm Post subject: brakes pad noise |
|
|
i'm hearing a screeching sound when i'm using my brakes
i've been told its because the brakes pads have dust accumulating in the groove
what exactly causes the screeching? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
 |
God Bless the Black Top* TriniTuner 24-7
Joined: 31 Jan 2005 Tech posts: 1654 Location: looking for ole skool JDMs! My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 1:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
| time to change your brake pads? there's little attachments at the ends of your brake pads that rub against your rotor signalling that it's time to change your brake pads. other than that, the brake pads your using are just generating too much dust which is giving on and off squeaking. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
honda4life 3NE 2NR for life
Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Tech posts: 197 Location: bleh My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
| so therefore change the brake pads or is there a way to get rid of the dust to stop the screeching |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
God Bless the Black Top* TriniTuner 24-7
Joined: 31 Jan 2005 Tech posts: 1654 Location: looking for ole skool JDMs! My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 1:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| the dust in the brake pads should only squeak occasionally, i.e. once in every 3 traffic lights stops, depending on how you're breaking, the noise won't be very loud. but if it's a constant squeak from a standstill start, till say you get up to 60-70 kmph. then you gotta change your brake pads. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Rx Shifting into 6th
Joined: 26 May 2004 Tech posts: 2192 Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee My 2NRide: Subaru Forester
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 2:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| purchase a reputable brand next time the car is due for brake pads change . |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
X2 Trying to catch PATCH AND VEGA
Joined: 18 Apr 2003 Tech posts: 6428 Location: Deciding on a compressor... My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 5:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well it's prolly ur brake wear indicators scratching the rotor.
BUT when u install a new pad and have to place the new pad onto the shim, there is a product called 'brake grease' that should be applied between the pad and the shim, the brake grease prevents periodic squealing from pads that often happens regardless of pad brand. If you don't put this grease on, you will likely hear squealing from the majority of pads used thruout their useable life. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
blazing Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 10 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 619
My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 5:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
in addition to putting the brake grease before the shim, you should apply some to all the moving parts of the caliper i.e. caliper bolts, ends, etc
and choose a good pad, while you at it you can get those pads with built in shims etc. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
krack korn Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 20 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 640 Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701' My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 10:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If u don't have brake grease, a good anti sieze like copper slip works well, paste between shim and pads, between shim and caliper and on the edges of disk pads where they fit into the caliper. Use only brake grease (rubber compatible grease) in contact with rubber parts. Do not get grease or anti sieze onto the braking contact surface of the rotor or pads.
To answer your earlier question, yes u can take out pads and clean the groove with wire, small screwdriver etc it sometimes becomes filled with dust. If your pads don't have groves in the middle u can cut groves with a saw or cutting disk on an angle grinder. A table tile cutter is d real ginger beer. Just don't cut to closer than 2mm from the steel backing of the pad whatever method u use. U can also take the glazing off the pad by rubbing on a sheet of sand paper on a very flat surface eg. glass. Use the same sandpaper to deglaze rotors by making small circular motions on rotor. Remember u are just deglazing not taking off lots of material. Clean pads and rotors of any residual abrasives from sandpaper with comp air or mild detergent and water, latter is better if u had any grease/oil on rotors and pads.
Brake squeaking is a somewhat complex phenomenon. Have u ever dragged a table or chair on the floor and it squeaked? Smoother the floor worse it is. Same thing, friction tends to cause high frequency vibration in sliding surfaces, the brake pad material and shims help to absorb this and this is why the grease helps, also the reason the groove helps, in addition to assisting with clearing out brake dust it prevents the propagation of sound and associated harmonics by interrupting the surface of contact, so when the groove becomes filled.... noise again.
As previously mentioned it could be wear indicators. wear indicators are usualy only on one pad per pair and usually the inner one, sometimes uneven pad wear occurs due to rotor condition, sticking pins/piston so the other one could be worse. Inspect promptly! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
venum 3NE2NR Diesel Boyz
Joined: 07 May 2004 Tech posts: 3638 Location: San Fernando My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
this is the first time I am hearing bout deglazing your rotors with sandpaper
is this advised?
I know about deglazing the brake pad with sandpaper
but the rotors?
will this damage the rotors?
please shed some more light on this
also brake grease
Tell me more about this brake grease - first time I am hearing bout this |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
blazing Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 10 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 619
My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 2:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
rotor deglazing is recommended with every brake change
and the brake grease/caliper grease is a special formula that absorbs vibration and ultimately noise. Apply it to the caliper bolts, shims and any other moving parts. The caliper boplts on most cars come with brake grease on them, that is why they say that you shouldnt wipe the bolt clean and re-install. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Rx Shifting into 6th
Joined: 26 May 2004 Tech posts: 2192 Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee My 2NRide: Subaru Forester
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
| krack korn wrote: | If u don't have brake grease, a good anti sieze like copper slip works well, paste between shim and pads, between shim and caliper and on the edges of disk pads where they fit into the caliper. Use only brake grease (rubber compatible grease) in contact with rubber parts. Do not get grease or anti sieze onto the braking contact surface of the rotor or pads.
To answer your earlier question, yes u can take out pads and clean the groove with wire, small screwdriver etc it sometimes becomes filled with dust. If your pads don't have groves in the middle u can cut groves with a saw or cutting disk on an angle grinder. A table tile cutter is d real ginger beer. Just don't cut to closer than 2mm from the steel backing of the pad whatever method u use. U can also take the glazing off the pad by rubbing on a sheet of sand paper on a very flat surface eg. glass. Use the same sandpaper to deglaze rotors by making small circular motions on rotor. Remember u are just deglazing not taking off lots of material. Clean pads and rotors of any residual abrasives from sandpaper with comp air or mild detergent and water, latter is better if u had any grease/oil on rotors and pads.
Brake squeaking is a somewhat complex phenomenon. Have u ever dragged a table or chair on the floor and it squeaked? Smoother the floor worse it is. Same thing, friction tends to cause high frequency vibration in sliding surfaces, the brake pad material and shims help to absorb this and this is why the grease helps, also the reason the groove helps, in addition to assisting with clearing out brake dust it prevents the propagation of sound and associated harmonics by interrupting the surface of contact, so when the groove becomes filled.... noise again.
As previously mentioned it could be wear indicators. wear indicators are usualy only on one pad per pair and usually the inner one, sometimes uneven pad wear occurs due to rotor condition, sticking pins/piston so the other one could be worse. Inspect promptly! |
is this recommended? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
X2 Trying to catch PATCH AND VEGA
Joined: 18 Apr 2003 Tech posts: 6428 Location: Deciding on a compressor... My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| U shouldn't 'deglaze' the rotors with sandpaper, you may get an uneven surface. You should get them cut on a lathe at a machine shop to ensure they surface is flush... doing it by hand is just a rig. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
venum 3NE2NR Diesel Boyz
Joined: 07 May 2004 Tech posts: 3638 Location: San Fernando My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ok
thanx for the advice on rotor deglazing
anyone else?
so what grade of sandpaper do you recommed?
how do I deglaze the rotors?
Mitsu Bros a lil advice here |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Rx Shifting into 6th
Joined: 26 May 2004 Tech posts: 2192 Location: Behind mih binoculars ... heehehee My 2NRide: Subaru Forester
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 3:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| X2 wrote: | | U shouldn't 'deglaze' the rotors with sandpaper, you may get an uneven surface. You should get them cut on a lathe at a machine shop to ensure they surface is flush... doing it by hand is just a rig. |
Now this making real sense..................  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
honda4life 3NE 2NR for life
Joined: 14 Dec 2004 Tech posts: 197 Location: bleh My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 7:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
damn
thanks guys
lots of info there
whats a good brand of brake pads?? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
krack korn Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 20 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 640 Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701' My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
venum, I use anywhere from about 400 to 120 grit on the rotors and pads. no problems to date. Take a read of this document
www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconnect/technicalservices/downloads/3221.pdf
Them fellas getting tie up with 'resurfacing' and 'deglazing'. my recommendation to deglaze is on a flatish smoothish rotor that does not require resurfacing. As u can see from the above article sand paper is used to finish the job after machining on a lathe or on the car like what TONE does. The only way to achieve a non directional surface mark is with circular motion of the sand paper or if machining is done by 'Blanchard Grinding'. Not many shops have d equipment or willingness to do this for brake rotors. That is the condition that u recieve a new rotor in, Blanchard Ground.
The most important time to deglaze is when changing the type of pad, ie. different brand or different type within same brand. Essentially whenever the formulation of the pad material changes.
Deglazing will ensure your pads bed in properly if u follow the bedding in proceedure for the type of pad u choose.
If u resurface your rotors every time u will soon need new rotors, this may not be a problem for some who have a paper mill but for me every dollar saved is a dollar earned. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
venum 3NE2NR Diesel Boyz
Joined: 07 May 2004 Tech posts: 3638 Location: San Fernando My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
krackorn
thanx for the link
you are right about the finishing touches being applied with the sandpaper
I do believe that the guys are thinking about re-surfacing
I do not have to re-surface
as a matter of fact, after I switched to the GIC brake pads that Mitsu_Exec recommended (previously using daishin) the noises decreased significantly.
they only make noise sometimes and other times they do not make a sound.
so I'm a bit confused
I have yet to isolate the conditions under which they make noise, which is sort of a metallic scratching noise or a squeak (similar to the change pad squeak, jus not as high pitched)
si I was thinking bout the rotors
when you run your fingers along the rotors, it feels relatively smooth, not glass smooth, but vert slightly rough
any more advice? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
blazing Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 10 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 619
My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| ^sound like yuh shims rubbin |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
krack korn Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 20 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 640 Location: N 03° 06.9267' ; E 06° 51.1701' My 2NRide:
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Use the brake grease, ask around, plenty auto parts place have it, if yuh in south ah know Checks on cipero street have it for sure, called brake grease, rubber grease or rubber compatible grease.
I find the anti sieze more cost effective for all non rubber applications, get the rubber grease service your pins and the holes where they go, put new grease ,all areas I mentioned before, and see what happen. Noise from the pins is typically a clicking sound doh ah just telling yuh to do dat while yuh have everything out one time. GIC is semi metallic and u may not be able to eleminate the odd squeak. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
venum 3NE2NR Diesel Boyz
Joined: 07 May 2004 Tech posts: 3638 Location: San Fernando My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal
|
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I feel I will get the grease
and check the shims when I grease the calipers and bolts |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|