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Why is filler a bad ting?
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ShIvAm
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:12 am
   Post subject: Why is filler a bad ting?
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well?
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VexXx Dogg
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:27 am
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body filler is sometimes necessary for restoration/handle rust etc, BUT some local straighteners overdo it and have INCHES of filler on the car.
that is poor workmanship and a terrible shortcut.
This has become the norm, so almost everyone who is buying a used car checks for filler expecting BAD work.
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B20VTEK
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:31 am
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Nothing is wrong with filler is applied CORRECTLY.

There should be no more than 1/4" depth Of filler.
It also has to be mixed properly, and the surface must be prepared properly.
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:31 am
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do vehicles, come from the manufacturer with filler or metal panels? Confused
is it an upgrade to those metal panels?
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hong kong phooey
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:17 pm
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even brand new cars from the firm sometimes have filler
was at a garage in sanfernando where they brought in new cars to remove little dents on doors and fenders
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hong kong phooey
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:28 pm
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And all body repair shop need to use it to get rid of dents, cover up weldings
when yhey remake parts,
once the surface is prepared properly before pasting starts you normally do not have a problem with the filler
again u cannot put loads of filler on. but some costumers dont want to pay the price for good work so they have to settle for crap'

the fiberglass filler is much better that the regular filler as it adheres to the metal better
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:34 pm
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hong kong phooey wrote:
even brand new cars from the firm sometimes have filler
was at a garage in sanfernando where they brought in new cars to remove little dents on doors and fenders

from the firm, and from the manufacturer is two different sources eh. Laughing

it is a generally accepted practice. but not the original.
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B20VTEK
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:55 pm
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hong kong phooey wrote:
And all body repair shop need to use it to get rid of dents, cover up weldings
when yhey remake parts,
once the surface is prepared properly before pasting starts you normally do not have a problem with the filler
again u cannot put loads of filler on. but some costumers dont want to pay the price for good work so they have to settle for crap'

the fiberglass filler is much better that the regular filler as it adheres to the metal better


some times u spend your money and get s-h_i-t work regardless
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ghostbusters
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:14 pm
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fibre glass filler also takes much longer to dry
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minipresident
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:15 pm
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i think fellas get carried away with the filler thing. anybody whoever used filler especially the fiber glass filler will tell you it is really nice and encouraging to use and this helps to promote shabby workmanship.

i remember once while removing old filler whilst doing over the body on a maxi we bought, ...them boys instead of cutting out and replacing the rusted spots; take newspaper and place it over the hole and slap filler on top ah dat!
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vin123
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 5:28 pm
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A straightner once told me that they make filler to use on cars is jus some man does get filler happy lol
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hong kong phooey
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:13 pm
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think as mini president said we getting carried away

the man ask why is filler a bad thing?

1. because it could hide shitty workmanship : it is easier to dump alot of paste that pounding out the dent and using less paste
2. because if the surface not prepared right it will swell
3. some paints seem not to adhere well, could be surface preparation

but filler is a necessity unless you want to buy new parts (not foreign used, new)
once a straightner makes a part or welds on the vehicle he has to use paste to cover it up.

Give the straightner his due some times when some one brings in a car thats already repaired it has paste on it the owner does not want to pay the straightner to remove all the old paste .
the reason the car gets so much paste on it is because if the straightner tells you the part need changing out . most will say "boy that part to exensive youcannot do anything with it" so he has to make sugar from sheit and paste is his magic ingredient
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B20VTEK
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:34 pm
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Paste is usually referred to as putty...

Putty should only be used to fill 'pin' holes.
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bushwakka
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:13 pm
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IMO....it is unacceptable to buy a 'new' car an find filler on it...unless u get a discount on it
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:41 pm
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On a car that has experienced the regular "door dings"/slight imperfections in the bodywork etc with age, sometimes the only solution to get back the clean lines etc etc IF doing a body shop "restoration"/repair, would be to use some filler.

It's inevetable in almost ANY piece of bodywork.


PERIOD.



The PROBLEM lies in how it's USED by some bodyshops. Folks prefer to put a hammer out a body panel and put a TON of paste to make it fit, and try to look proper, rather than buy a new/used panel, and touch up with probably less than 10 grams of paste here and there just to ensure a "clean"/flush finish.


My 2c.
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ShIvAm
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 10:33 am
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so wa if u cyah get the panel???? i guess u ha no choice...
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hong kong phooey
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 11:57 am
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^^^
lots of body shops have proper benders where they have the capibility of making the panel
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 6:35 pm
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hong kong phooey wrote:
2. because if the surface not prepared right it will swell...
Yup..."Swelling" and "blisters" are not caused by using filler. It's caused by incorrect "prep" after the filler is applied.

Most "straighteners" save a buck by using water when sanding filler, to make the sandpaper last longer.
Sanctifier wrote:
When cured, filler is a "hard plastic sponge." If you fill the voids with water (sanding)...
Don't use heat lamps/heated spray-booth or let it dry for a long time to remove ALL the moisture...
Then cover the panel with paint ("water-proof coating") to prevent moisture from evaporating...
The metal will rust under the paint.

RUST is oxidized metal... it increases in SIZE (thickness) during oxidation.
So very soon, you get MORE... and BIGGER rust-holes than you had before.

The correct tools are "vacuum-assist" sanders to remove the powder (through holes in the pad) WITHOUT using water.
EXPENSIVE... so "you to catch" with crappy work.

So check if the "straightener" has proper equipment... and a good reputation first.
BTW if they don't do much straightening anymore; are they still "straighteners" Question Laughing

My $0.02¢


Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Aug 22, 2009 10:58 am; edited 1 time in total
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B20VTEK
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 11:11 pm
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Sanctifier, next time i gonna pay you to do any body work for me
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 10:57 am
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^ ^ ^ Yeah right! Laughing I'm a rank novice, padna... and I also have three DIY projects to do.

The pros say the better the sander, the better the finish... so I'm buying a pair of Hutchins sanders.
1 x Vacuum Assist, Random Orbital... and 1 x WaterBug Random Orbital for colour-sanding clear coat.

Hope they help reduce my screw-ups. Smile


Last edited by Sanctifier on Sun Aug 23, 2009 1:59 am; edited 1 time in total
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ShIvAm
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 1:12 pm
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and how much ppl does do a GOOD body job in tnt... cause it eh soundin like plenty ppl. an Sanctifier, look like he eh no novice, apparently he kno he stuff.
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ShIvAm
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 1:15 pm
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and i guessing a proper body job go be a ton a work on a older car....
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 1:49 pm
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ShIvAm wrote:
...Sanctifier, look like he eh no novice...
Nope, I am a novice, especially in bodywork & painting.
Plenty reading and only a little practice in it over the years.

Not selling any of my cars and can't afford THREE custom paint jobs at $10k-$15k+ EACH. #Shocked
So building ToyRoom (workshop) and buying tools for 3 "DIY" Projects over a few YEARS.
Sanctifier wrote:
Then I'll have room to work...the equipment I want...the cars...AND learn some stuff too. Cool

BTW the ToyRoom is more important to me than the cars... and I LOVE my cars.

Details on workshop renovation, tools and cars below...

Link--> THE ASYLUM!... Workshops & Tools for DIY MadMen.

Link--> ~ Readers' Rides ~

My $0.02¢


Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:50 am; edited 1 time in total
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brakefluid
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:01 pm
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Some people that claim to have gotten an excellent job may not know if any shortcuts were taken to achieve the desired finish....at least not at the time. With any trade there are shortcuts and time is money.

Professionals know how to take these short cuts and how far to go with them. Unless you working on the car yourself, you CANNOT be guaranteed a good job unless of course the straightener gives you a warranty.
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brakefluid
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:46 am
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Bondage between filler and metal is only temporary. The metal should be epoxy coated before fillering. Of course metal preparation is the root to good fillerwork. Also, the thicker the filler, the more likely it is to crack whether visual or not. IMO going over 1/2" is overdoing it.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:38 am
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brakefluid wrote:
..IMO going over 1/2" is overdoing it.
Filler is NOT supposed to replace correct body repair by a lazy/"con-man" straightener.
AFAIK even 1/2" is WAY too much. If the fender has 1/2"+ filler what went on with the chassis?
Sanctifier wrote:
If a flimsy panel needs 1/4"-1/2" of filler to "pass with a push"... how much "pulling" does the CHASSIS need to bring the suspension alignment back to OEM specs?

If you hit a stove with a 3,000 lb hammer at 15 mph... you don't think that the FRAME underneath is bent too Question
That means that EVERY body-shop MUST have at least some basic equipment to pull the CHASSIS back to OEM specs (or at least MEASURE it) BEFORE starting to repair the external panel, not so?

No point in paying less for a cheap 1/2" filler job. All you get is your tyres cutting down to canvas, on one side in two or three months... or even weeks. Rolling Eyes

My $0.02¢
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brakefluid
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 1:46 pm
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Sanctifier wrote:

AFAIK even 1/2" is WAY too much.

I disagree and stand by my statement. If you could produce a finished product from a worst case scenario with less than 1/2" filler throughout, you not just good, you supposed to be the world's most amazing videos.

I also never said that it should be used to "cover up" bad work
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:54 pm
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brakefluid wrote:
If you could produce a finished product from a worst case scenario with less than 1/2" filler throughout...
That's not my opinion, padna. That's what the REAL experts have to say about straightening and painting.
They even use 1/8" as a standard for some jobs. You're entitled to your opinion... So am I.
brakefluid wrote:
...with less than 1/2" filler throughout, you not just good, you supposed to be the world's most amazing videos...
At least we agree on that... they do belong in a "most amazing" video. They are the experts... I am a novice. Go and argue with them if you want. They know more than you, so I'll try to follow their advice as best as I can.

Link--> Tech Tips: Using Fillers and Putties for Spot Body Repair.
Their $0.02¢... Laughing
brakefluid wrote:
I also never said that it should be used to "cover up" bad work
^ ^ ^ And I never said that you did, so don't get your knickers in a knot, padna. Rolling Eyes My concern is the underlying CHASSIS damage that usually goes unrepaired in T&T... not your comment.

My $0.02¢ Laughing


Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:53 am; edited 2 times in total
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brakefluid
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:35 pm
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Scene meh dawg Mr. Green
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:42 am
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brakefluid wrote:
...with less than 1/2" filler throughout, you not just good, you supposed to be the world's most amazing videos...
Here are a few Paintless Dent Repair videos...with NO FILLER!... NO SANDING...and NO REPAINTING either!
You're right, they are amazing! #Shocked





It's a pity that nobody does this quality of work locally. 95% of the time, they use NO FILLER at all...
and if necessary, VERY little. Much less than 1/2 inch thick.

More important...repairs usually costs 1/4 -to- 1/3 of a normal "straighten & paint" job with pounds of filler in it!



BTW an avearage repair can usually be done in a day...or in a weekend for many jobs.

Is anybody interested in avoiding paying HUGH "excesses" on Insurance repairs?...or HIGHER PREMIUMS after they make a claim? If so, I'll keep you posted for a better & cheaper alternative.
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