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VQ boys......parts, problems, upgrades, swaps, boost
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cacasplat3
punchin NOS


Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Tech posts: 3170
Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water......
My 2NRide:

PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 3:14 pm
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^^^^^ that is bad for daily driven cars that dont see much higher end revs.
i still have to find out the stock size of the piping, but it looks close to 2 inches, it could be more, i havent really examined it.

well the K&N was cleaned, and i find like i loose power, or mabey its just the sound of the car, cuz i dont get the WHMMM sound of the filter when its clean.

i'll try to go to the muffler shop friday and find out how much it would cost to build the headders and y-pipe.
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Knight1
Shifting into 6th


Joined: 17 Aug 2005
Tech posts: 2014
Location: On terra firma
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:44 am
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Well all those folks are just putting on the biggest diameter they can get, to get the highest peak power, without considering low end torque and everyday drivablility. I can tell you from experience, that putting on a catback on my car, initially made me loose some low-end torque, but I had significant gains higher in the rpm range.


Quote:
^^^^^ that is bad for daily driven cars that dont see much higher end revs.
i still have to find out the stock size of the piping, but it looks close to 2 inches, it could be more, i havent really examined it.


Not necessarily.....keep in mind that boost only hits from a certain RPM anyways...., so I would have to rev the car a bit more to hit the "boost range".

Also, some additional "mods" I've done (Laughing) have kinda elimiated that "slight loss" of low end torque.
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A33_VQ35
Trinituner Peong


Joined: 30 Apr 2004
Tech posts: 428
Location: Nowhere/Everywhere
My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33

PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:31 am
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Knight1, What car do you drive???

cacasplat3, I was thinking that instead of getting the 300zx brakes we could jus get some SS brake lines that tuner imports ordering and some good disc pads an we should have enough stopping power we need. I heard that Hawk has some good pads for our cars. I using wagner now and they not holding up to what i want to do to them. The OEM used to stop the car better. Find the wagner does fade kinda fast. Lookin to get a set of Hawk pads when the car down an try it.

Heard Akebono is real good to. I saw a thread looking for someone who sells them.
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Canonball
Riding on 13's


Joined: 07 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:07 am
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How much more gas does the VQ25 burn over the 20?
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cacasplat3
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
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Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water......
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:44 am
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Knight1, i thought u had an ITR Confused
now i seeing u have ah B15 in yuh avitar and u talking bout boost and 'mods'
wah u really driving? Laughing

Rodney T, the SS sounds good, but i wouldnt buy the aftermarket, i would get mine built by trinidad hose or sumthing, u would have to go with all yur brake lines though, and its cheaper (i heard it would cost about $800)
if u find out about the hawk pads let me know, cuz the ones i have now, are the cheap ass set and they marking my rotors and squealing like hell Evil or Very Mad

Canonball, gas consuption is really based on driving habits, and not really on the engine size, but if the same person drives both cars, i dont thnk it would be much more.


i'm getting sum volk rims really cheap, but its to get it from japan. i'll have to talk to my dad's cousin who sells used parts and see if he can help me out. if its costing too much i wont bother.
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Knight1
Shifting into 6th


Joined: 17 Aug 2005
Tech posts: 2014
Location: On terra firma
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:18 pm
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Knight1, i thought u had an ITR
now i seeing u have ah B15 in yuh avitar and u talking bout boost and 'mods'
wah u really driving?


Me? Nah man....I am a "poseur" extraordinaire. I don't even have a car.






Laughing


Ok no......seriously, what do I drive?

Check scoobytnt for details <hint> Wink


Quote:
if u find out about the hawk pads let me know, cuz the ones i have now, are the cheap arse set and they marking my rotors and squealing like hell


HAWK pads are great. I use the HAWK HPS pads on my car all round, I have no complaints thus far. Be careful with the EBC Greenstuff pads, as they can really eat away at your rotors...quickly.

I'd tell you to look into sourcing some CarboTech Bobcat brake pads, or Ferodo brake pads, but most folks down here have never even heard of these before.
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cacasplat3
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 10:16 am
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i got to look around for the hwak pads. it wont be easy, if i get the 300zx brakes and the hwak pads to match that would be even better.


ok i may have a problem with the cold air intake, the pipng i'm getting is 12 inches long, i dont know if it'll be too short, i have to find out b4 i purchase it, but if its too short i'll just buy a couple more lengths of the straights and weld it up to the bends Razz . i'm going to use T-bolt clamps, getting them at $35 a piece, last night i saw them for $80 for one Shocked
the T-bolts are better, since they dont cut into the hose like the normal hose clamps do. right now the flange on my K&N is disfigured due to a normal hose clamp which dug into the flange when it was tightned Mad
i'll replace that clamp with a T-bolt as well Razz
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cacasplat3
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:07 am
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just an update on the oil change. that oil works GREAT in comparason to the castrol gtx. the car runs smoother and is more quiet. Mr. Green
only thing i'm worried about is if the mobil1 has the same capabilites of the gtx to prevent sludge build up Confused
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 3:29 am
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^^^It doesn't.

Castrol has better sludge-dispersant properties.

An easy way to check this would be to look at the colour of the Mobil 1 on an oil drain. If it still looks "clean" then you can be pretty sure that sludge is being deposited in your engine, and not being suspended in the oil.
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cacasplat3
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:19 pm
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i'll take a look at it on the next oil change.
are there any engine oil additaves that i can SAFELY add to the engine to prevent sludge build up?
i doh want to add sumthing and then 3 weeks down the road i have ah set ah seals and bearings and stuff going bad Neutral
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 6:34 pm
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i'll take a look at it on the next oil change.
are there any engine oil additaves that i can SAFELY add to the engine to prevent sludge build up?
i doh want to add sumthing and then 3 weeks down the road i have ah set ah seals and bearings and stuff going bad


You don't need to add any additives, as most oils have some sort of sludge dispersant additive in them already. it's just that some oils, like Castrol, seem to excel at preventing sludge buildup as opposed to , say the M1. Keep in mind that most of the components used in manufacturing oils are sourced from one of a few major comapines...be it BP, Chevron Texaco etc. So the oils are alot more similar that most marketing hype would have you believe.

However, some additives that are used, depend on the type of oil that you buy. E.g. Royal Purple and Redline oils (highest grade synthetics) use a "Moly" anti friction additive. Other lower quality synthetics such as Mobil 1 or Syntec don't necessarily use this (I think).
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cacasplat3
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:11 pm
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i know about the use of the base oils all coming from a few companies.


did a lil research on oil sludge. got all the info i needed. many myths cleared up, and i'm more knowledgable on the subject now. even learned that using diesel engine oils of the same viscosity range could reduce yur sludge worries without causing harm, since diesel oils have better properties to keep MORE of the soot suspended in the oil. synthetics offer to hold more soot when compared to normal mineral oils, but it dosent really extend the oil change duration, because the other additaves may already be used up.
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 2:44 am
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but it dosent really extend the oil change duration, because the other additaves may already be used up.


Exactly. That's why I change my synth oil every 5000 km or every 3 months (whichever comes first)
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Chiney
punchin NOS


Joined: 03 Apr 2005
Tech posts: 3013
Location: Maracas,St.Joseph
My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 1:26 am
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hmm

good read here..

srry bout the delay boy caca..

met up with TSC de odda night in price plaza.. got the strut.. its they redish one..

doin the mods on the clamps to make it work for the a32.. the one u took jus wasnt cuttin it for me na! to plain.. and well.. heat with tarnish it over time..

will let you kno how it goes wen i install it..

as for the oil disscussion..

everything is true wat yall said.. but ah good oil to use is the castrol or shell...

the M1 is for braggin rights!
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cacasplat3
punchin NOS


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Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water......
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:54 am
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i cant afford to change oil every 5000km.
the only real way to know if yur oil has reached the limit is to do a oil analysis, to see wht percentage of the oil has been 'used up' so that way u have an indication of how much life u have in the oil remaining. i wonder where does that in trinidad. but i dont think that mineral oil would last longer than synthetic. they should both be about the same, so i'll stick to 10,000km and see what happens. if he oil keeps getting darker, then i know its working well, if it sticks at one constant colour well then thats where the sluge problem starts Confused

chiney, what car was the strut u bought really ment for?
i doh really care bout style nah, cuz if i got the coloured one it would have been gunmetal, so it still wouldnt have shown up. i think i may change the mounting brackets colour to blue.


allyh i looking for ah piece ah rice. i wah ah nismo oil cap, ah decent looking one. any ideas? i looking for ah original one from japan, not them knock off 'made in china' things that just have ah nismo emblem on it. Mad
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Chiney
punchin NOS


Joined: 03 Apr 2005
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Location: Maracas,St.Joseph
My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 3:22 pm
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does matter wat car..

its the length that matters.. and well the bracets can for the specific car can be used on n e bar...

all of the bars are the same strength.. dont let n e one fool u.. this one i got.. with the company logo on it.. its heavier than the one u got though.. wen i lifted dem both.. i waz shocked..

looks do matter to an extent.. becuz yuh eh go do yuh CAI with heat resistant bubber hose ent!
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cacasplat3
punchin NOS


Joined: 29 Jul 2005
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Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water......
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 5:59 pm
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yuh damn right bout the intake Laughing
i really wanted the strut for its performance, once the strut is in place and tightned up, it works. size dosent matter, to an extent. sumone said too large a bar can cause oversteering. i dont really see how this is possible though.

looks matter on yur preference i guess, and i wasent really in the mood to wait for another bar. Embarassed


well i should get all the parts for the intake by tuesday, everyting except the pipin, cuz sum south guy bought out all. just tried calling him and getting a mesage 'all incoming calls are restricted' Shocked Confused

now i have to wait on another shipment of piping. Sad

rodney how the project coming along? i hope u eh seeing too much trouble, ah gearbox would have been the best thing to put most of that 255hp to the wheels Twisted Evil
looking foward to seeing it out and about Mr. Green
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A33_VQ35
Trinituner Peong


Joined: 30 Apr 2004
Tech posts: 428
Location: Nowhere/Everywhere
My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 10:42 pm
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Boy real pressure yes. The thing stuck on the port whole week. Customs giving real trouble.

Had battery problems earlier this week. Battery ran dry and without warning wouldn't start. One thing i noticed is that once u eh hav full juice the car won't start, not even tumble. I was getting a reading of 12.35V on de battery an it won't even tumble. Apparantly it had a bad cell, well that was after we refill it and charge it up.Laughing

Learn't that the hard way Embarassed

Still hoping to bring home de baby by monday so i can get a look at it. I considering ordering some brembo OEM rotors for the car. It runs at $89US for the front pair, can't remember the price for the back. And also getting some hawk pads for front and back.

Should order that nex week once i confirm how much duty i paying on de engine. Any of allyuh no if i can bring in that and some shocks via skybox??? Or it to big or bulky??
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Chiney
punchin NOS


Joined: 03 Apr 2005
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Location: Maracas,St.Joseph
My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad

PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:18 am
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^^ yeh u need your brake setup fast...

thats shud of been the fuss thing b4 u upgrade your engine...

jus take it light on um... caca and me.. until your brakes good Embarassed

my vq shud prob have catch the flu by den Wink
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Knight1
Shifting into 6th


Joined: 17 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 1:31 pm
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i cant afford to change oil every 5000km.


That's cuz the Mobil 1 is just too darn expensive. Period.

The VQ20 is not a high performance engbine. Dude, honestly, just try Syntec or Syntec Blend.

Quote:
i hope u eh seeing too much trouble, ah gearbox would have been the best thing to put most of that 255hp to the wheels


Exclamation
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