VQ boys......parts, problems, upgrades, swaps, boost

[cacasplat3]

Knight1, good advice.
i was considering the vent filter,(open air) and also the OCC, the OCC is too expensive and i always thought that it was mainly a boosted application, cuz its not like i rev high or i put out huge amounts of power and torque.
since i'll be building a cold air intake soon, i think i'll get the vent filter, that way i have one less piece of tubing running to the new intake, so that means less aluminium welding and the filter is like $110 for a K&N


as for the fuel filter, it was discussed here a couple pages back, that the car dosent have a filter but an in tank strainer that should be replaced once the car hits 100,000km
i've used those fuel treatements only once or twice and that was when i now got the car almost 3 years back. never used them since, cuz of many posts here on tuner advising not to use them.

i would love to feel how this car moves with good gas and not the piss that np sells us, although some cars perform reasonibly well on the crap we have.

[Chiney]

srry bout the late responce jed.. real work..

and knight1 is right... yuh rubber tubing are at risk with that cleaner..

as for your intake and TB.. cleaning it like every6 months ore 10,000km wud be nice.. or if u board.. ah lil more..

TSC got the wrong strut for me and i eh want the oval silver one he offer.. i rather do without..

so i will update wen things are done according.. right now i hadda get new front tyres as the car shims at 80-100..

tested everything and boiled down to the tyres and the left rim..

new rims comin soon...

after i pass 100.. the car flies smoothly..

[Knight1]

[Chiney]

that right on the gas.. its isnt as bad as we think.. jus maybe they shud put gas ALONE in the gas station gas storage.

your idea for the CAI knight1 is not bad.. but the need for the byfas isnt needed.. caca doesnt have to put his CAI all the way there.. and the bypass will only work if the filter is submerged in water. once he can source ah spot for air to come through while driving.. the project can den be done. if u lookin to go so low.. den u will need to spend ah good amount of money to protect that filter... ah good place is where the stock filter gets its air from.. i had the chance to look around and play around in an a33 bonet.. the space the stock filter and harness takes up, once removed u have alot of space and the piping/ filter can be mounted EZ there.. and trust me.. u will get the cold air u want.. jus like it waz gettin with the stock.. and with the pipin the air flow will increase..

but thats jus food for thought

[A33_VQ35]

Knight1 Reading up in the FSM it says that the 10W30 oil it good at +38degrees. that is good enough for me. Remember that there are tight clearances in there so while u don't want to run anything to thin u also don't want to run anything to thick. I have used as thin as a 5W30 on my last car(B14) and that was only for 1 oil change. then i switched back to 10W30. Been using it more than 1yr now and no oil related engine problems.

For me i sticking with it. If nissan say so i usin it.

Good reading fellas. Engine here already. Waiting on word to go collect. Will keep u guys posted.

[cacasplat3]

plenty info boi!!!

chiney, i getting sum erratic idle cuz of cleaning the trottle body, i think its cuz the ecu has to re-ajust its settings to compensate for the new environment.
got to remove the battery terminal and let the ecu reset then i'll know for sure.
as for the strut bar, well i took it, cuz the order was mixed up with mine too(actually it wasent mixed up but megan racing dosent make the wide bars just the oval ones for the maxima{A32 and A33}) but the oval one is solid, quite strong and trust me i took it cuz of performance not style. and trust me it WORKS!!!!
(did a couple hard 180* turns and a few hard corners on the rally stage in chagauramas this afternoon), man the bar made a big difference since the last time i went there.
i noticed my tires cutting badly, got to locate a good set, most likely its dunlop's again


knight1, good point but as chiney mentioned where i'm going i dont need the bypass, cuz i not that foolish to put my filter less than 18 inches from the ground

if i get yur point about the MAF placement correctly, u mean that i i should mimic the original intake just before the MAF for it to get proper readings? thing is the original position was just after the filter and the air changed direction while passing the filter (almost a U turn in the air stream), and honestly i skeptical about even putting a 90* in my CAI but it has to be done.
also, about the gas they SAY we get 95, but thats what np ships abroad, we get the lower grade fuel, thats why sti's ping soo much, i have a friend who did tests on the gas and it isnt what they say it is. but i agree with chiney, we get too much crap with the gas, like water and sediment.

chiney i get wah u mean bout placing the filter, but i still think that its too close to the radiator, and its wasting money if i put it there, yes it would get some cold air but IMO its not enough, cuz the filter is still exposed to the engine heat and in addition the radiator, when the car is moving, it would be all good, but on a hot day in medium traffic, can u imagine the loss of power
thats why i choose to put it inside the bumper, on the side, just infront the wheel well. one hole would have to be cut, but all that still isnt confirmed.


rodney, how much do u pay for 10W30? i still need one quart again, cuz after putting in one gallon, the level is still too low for my liking, i'll put in one more quart and my mind would be at ease


rodney, why u doh get ah gearbox? it go be more work with the clutch and the exra pedel and the addition of the shifter and other things, but in the long run i think it would be worth it





well on the rally stage i got the opportunity to do 2 handbrake assisted u-turns a.ka. jackass drives
honestly it felt good that the car could do it on loose wet gravel and on a concrete surface, the concret part is actually quite smooth and a good place to pratice drifting, but i doh have ah RWD so i go mellow.

would keep u all informed!!!

[Knight1]

[cacasplat3]

got yur point on the gas,

but just to add, the bad tank of gas i got a few days ago was from the quicke shoppe in debe everyone complains that the gas is bad there, i guess they dont maintain the tanks.

about the suspension mods, i'm not reall go into spending more money on the car as it is, cuz i'm going diesel soon. for now i'll do the cold air and mabey headders if the price is right.
i e-mailed energy suspension a while back but they have nothing listed for my car

as for heat shield, i'll wont need it if i go CAI

[Knight1]

Diesel?

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At least ah hope it tuhhhhbo.

[cacasplat3]

diesel would be turbo and the car would go back to my mom.(who only cares about not burning excesive amounts of gas)


headders would be 6-2-1 since is ah front wheel drive V6, the 2 part would be really long to make up the length.

i dont thnink i'll do anything to the OEM piping except de-cat and take out the resenator, but still not sure cuz i not versed in the exhaust department.
i was thinking 2.25 or 2.5 since i've seen online, 2.0l running 2.5 exhausts and sum non turbo SR's here on 2.5 as well
but i want to get the cold air out of the way b4 i move on to the exhaust

[Chiney]

here na hoss..the CAI seems to be ah headache for u.. and all the talk about the gas.. nothin goin change.. so jus live with it...

that CAI seems to have u bz hoss..

i wish there waz somewhey we cuda meet up and check out de scene..

as for resettin your ecu.. take off the neg pole.. and wait 5 secs.. touch the pole back with 1 sec intervals for 5 times..to its like u tappin the pole with the wire for 5 times with 1 sec interval.. u might see some sparks.. thats ok..

then wait 1 minutre and plug back up

[sr20ve]

this thread to long to read through ...but i saw a VQ30DE RWD (2005 Nissan Gloria Engine)in the Bamboo today ...they was asking 15000 for it though ...

[Knight1]

[Chiney]

^^ waz sharing de info i got... we all learn dont we??


that vq30de rwd engine is rare.. read about it as well.. under boost it can produce 320hp ez!!

nice engine...

[A33_VQ35]

PIPE DIAMETER GUIDELINES
Some basic exhaust pipe diameter guidelines for non-turbo cars are as follows:
1,500cc-2,000cc engines : 2-inch
2,100cc-2,500cc engines : 2.25-inch
2,600cc-3,000cc engines : 2.5-inch
Add half an inch to the pipe diameter to optimize for nitrous oxide use because of the increased exhaust gas volume. Remember this may be too big for optimal operation when you aren't on the bottle. For turbocharged engines, 2.5-inch is the minimum size pipe that you would want to run, even for the smaller engines. For 2,000cc and bigger engines, 3-inch works well, and for bigger engines the biggest (usually 3.5-inch) you can find is appropriate. It is almost impossible to have too big of an exhaust on a turbo car.

cacasplat3 Some info for you. taken from: http://www.magnaflow.com/05news/magazine/05sportc.asp

Should be a good guide for everyone.

[cacasplat3]

Chiney, the intake isnt a headache, is just that material a little hard to get cuz of ppl stuff getting stuck on the port and i doh really have time between classes and being busy on weekends to get the other stuff needed. doh worry we go meet sooner or later

will try reseting the ECU later

i never came across the VQ30 RWD but i come across the VQ40 online, man that thing sweet for days, imagine the torque


rodney thanks for the info, but just to point out sumthing in this

[Knight1]

[A33_VQ35]

[cacasplat3]

[Knight1]

[cacasplat3]

^^^^^ that is bad for daily driven cars that dont see much higher end revs.
i still have to find out the stock size of the piping, but it looks close to 2 inches, it could be more, i havent really examined it.

well the K&N was cleaned, and i find like i loose power, or mabey its just the sound of the car, cuz i dont get the WHMMM sound of the filter when its clean.

i'll try to go to the muffler shop friday and find out how much it would cost to build the headders and y-pipe.

[Knight1]

[A33_VQ35]

Knight1, What car do you drive???

cacasplat3, I was thinking that instead of getting the 300zx brakes we could jus get some SS brake lines that tuner imports ordering and some good disc pads an we should have enough stopping power we need. I heard that Hawk has some good pads for our cars. I using wagner now and they not holding up to what i want to do to them. The OEM used to stop the car better. Find the wagner does fade kinda fast. Lookin to get a set of Hawk pads when the car down an try it.

Heard Akebono is real good to. I saw a thread looking for someone who sells them.

[Canonball]

How much more gas does the VQ25 burn over the 20?

[cacasplat3]

Knight1, i thought u had an ITR
now i seeing u have ah B15 in yuh avitar and u talking bout boost and 'mods'
wah u really driving?

Rodney T, the SS sounds good, but i wouldnt buy the aftermarket, i would get mine built by trinidad hose or sumthing, u would have to go with all yur brake lines though, and its cheaper (i heard it would cost about $800)
if u find out about the hawk pads let me know, cuz the ones i have now, are the cheap ass set and they marking my rotors and squealing like hell

Canonball, gas consuption is really based on driving habits, and not really on the engine size, but if the same person drives both cars, i dont thnk it would be much more.


i'm getting sum volk rims really cheap, but its to get it from japan. i'll have to talk to my dad's cousin who sells used parts and see if he can help me out. if its costing too much i wont bother.

[Knight1]

[cacasplat3]

i got to look around for the hwak pads. it wont be easy, if i get the 300zx brakes and the hwak pads to match that would be even better.


ok i may have a problem with the cold air intake, the pipng i'm getting is 12 inches long, i dont know if it'll be too short, i have to find out b4 i purchase it, but if its too short i'll just buy a couple more lengths of the straights and weld it up to the bends . i'm going to use T-bolt clamps, getting them at $35 a piece, last night i saw them for $80 for one
the T-bolts are better, since they dont cut into the hose like the normal hose clamps do. right now the flange on my K&N is disfigured due to a normal hose clamp which dug into the flange when it was tightned
i'll replace that clamp with a T-bolt as well

[cacasplat3]

just an update on the oil change. that oil works GREAT in comparason to the castrol gtx. the car runs smoother and is more quiet.
only thing i'm worried about is if the mobil1 has the same capabilites of the gtx to prevent sludge build up

[Knight1]

^^^It doesn't.

Castrol has better sludge-dispersant properties.

An easy way to check this would be to look at the colour of the Mobil 1 on an oil drain. If it still looks "clean" then you can be pretty sure that sludge is being deposited in your engine, and not being suspended in the oil.

[cacasplat3]

i'll take a look at it on the next oil change.
are there any engine oil additaves that i can SAFELY add to the engine to prevent sludge build up?
i doh want to add sumthing and then 3 weeks down the road i have ah set ah seals and bearings and stuff going bad