VQ boys......parts, problems, upgrades, swaps, boost
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:29 am Post subject: |
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^^^^ from the words of ah honda owner who ran 13 sec. in greneda ah few years back N/A 'nitrous is cheap fun'
yuh know the man build ah 3 rotor 2nd gen not long after with ah turbo almost as big as the engine
chiney WTF u posting at 3 am? alluh does suffer from insomnia or sumthing
anyways i eh moving no damn battery stand, if that is the case, well is short ram fuh that, with ah cold air feed, nothing more. dias too much stress cuz i did it already, took bout ah hour o take out and more time to put back it
well i still looking fuh the 300zx brakes, them thing hard to find boi, i have to make ah pass in the bamboo when i have sum free time. i still shocked that ah man on maxima.org pay $40US for ah pair ah calipers
oh about the 4000 rpm thing then flooring it, use wisely eh! cuz speed cut engages just after 170, sumtimes before. so this could determine if u getting licks or u sharing
have sum electrical problem i think. cuz 3 out of 4 aftermarket lights(LED's and xenon) have blown on the RIGHT side of my car. got to sorth this out soon  |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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my fogs keep blowin constantly..
gonna check that link out..
last time waz ah fuse.. dunno wat it is now..
n e one? |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:17 am Post subject: |
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ah finally get time to go by the fella to check up for the cold air, its going to be ah true cold air, inside the fender, when we're finished the filter would be a little higher than the alternator so no worries with flood
i have to get ah 45* and ah 90* bend. i ah lil skeptical about the 90* but thats what is needed so i have to use it. i have to source the piping cuz the guy pays too much for his and i can get it cheaper on tuner
only thing is i have to wait to get it done, cuz next week he has a couple cars to tune so he dosent have time  |
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:15 am Post subject: |
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| ^^ lets kno how that goes! |
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A33_VQ35 Trinituner Peong
Joined: 30 Apr 2004 Tech posts: 428 Location: Nowhere/Everywhere My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33
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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:46 am Post subject: |
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Fellas i get a link for someone who has the BMW M-style mirrors for the A33 dread. The type that does fold up with the indicator lights on it also. Pm me allyuh e-mail an i will send a vid of it installed on a A33. The guy who sold it says he have for the A32 as well. I trying to get a price for them. It's OEM also!!
Engine on its way. Suppose to be here by this time nex week. I real excited. |
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A33_VQ35 Trinituner Peong
Joined: 30 Apr 2004 Tech posts: 428 Location: Nowhere/Everywhere My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33
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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:47 am Post subject: |
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| Chiney wrote: | | ^^ lets kno how that goes! |
X2 |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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anyways i getting the piping on wednesday, i not using polished cuz i not ah fan of bling and no sting
plus the un-polished a lot cheaper.
most likely i will install the original factory air box with original filter and go on the dyno on saturday. to get a base reading for all my future mods. i want to do a dyno run every time i do something majour. cold air is coming soon and the headders and cat back should be done by year end. i shouldnt be in the country for about the first 3 months of next year so i trying to get as much done now as possible.
i also going to change oil and thing the weekend. this is ah hectic weekend with things to do on that car, i just hope i could get eveything done.
rodney is cacasplat3@hotmail.com
looking foward to seeing it, cuz i need a new right side mirror anyhow cuz the gearing inside it is ca-puts since a woman hit it sum time ago.  |
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:00 am Post subject: |
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well mine stop workin.. so link meh
rjdrepaul@hotmail.com  |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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hmmmmmm well pressure jed!!
i went by W2J today, and he dosent have the piping, cuz it stuck on the port. he has un-polished piping coming in so i think i'll wait until he get it, cuz is like $85 ah piece ah pipe by him and like 150-200 ah piece by other ppl.
i using t-bolt clamps but i'll get those when i get the piping. as for the hoses, all i getting is high pressure hoses which is like over-kill for my application, i'll check trinidad hose on friday and see what hoses they have, and depinding on the outcome of that i'll know what to buy.
as for the dyno. well hmmmmmm i eh know wah going on cuz i real get tied up but sure sure it will happen.
rodney thanks for the vids, but that price way to high for me cuz right now i looking fuh performance.  |
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:26 am Post subject: |
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the mirrors sweet!!
but not that price..
but i kno is good ting!
caca.. rodney alrdy gettin his 300+ hp wid his new toy..
we hadda make do now!
btw rodney.. how is the bolt up for the vq35de in the bay? |
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A33_VQ35 Trinituner Peong
Joined: 30 Apr 2004 Tech posts: 428 Location: Nowhere/Everywhere My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33
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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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Chiney I eh no yet. Me an de mech was lookin at some pics because is from a LHD i gettin it from, so that means there master cylinder on de left side. But he say it would fit.
Dread i was reading on maxima.org that u expect a 30% power loss with a auto as compared to 15% with manual. So they have been getting 168WHP on auto's even though the motor rated at 255HP.
But they also say u can get 20+Hp with exhaust and CAI bolt on's. As a matter of fact there are guys on the forum gettting more than the stock HP rating of 255 with bolt on's. It seems that the stock profile limits the engine so if u guys get some quality exhaust headers with a 2-2.25 exhaust diameter and CAI u on like corn!! I shooting for a 3" diameter exhaust  |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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DAMN!!!! tranny is shitt i was saying that from the beggineing, wasent i saying that from the beginning?
well cold air and exhaust to be done soon, and then the car will go back to my mom's cuz i going diesel.
i not sure what size piping to use on the exhaust though. i will talk to sum ppl and see what they say.
tomorrow i going to get oil and coolant and them other stuff, K&N recharger kit too among other things.
chiney boi rodney is ah happy man , i will do no such swap, i will quicker go lighter and more powerful ESSSSS RRRRRRRRR!!!
will keep alluh posted on any new developments.  |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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oh i forgot to ask, chiney wah kind ah hose connectors u used on your intake? i getting low pressure for $50 ah piece and high pressure for $65 sumwhere else, then it have sum ppl selling high pressure for 120-200 ah piece. the high pressure i getting for $65 is TurboXS, so i wondering if i should just buy what's good and done or pay a little less for sumthing less storng but not over-kill
depending on alluh response here i will contact the seller, so alluh is the deciding factor
rodney wah is yuh number plate and colour of your car? i go know not to play the ass around yuh!!!!  |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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well i got the K&N cleaning kit today, oil filter,. mobil1 10W30 oil, new wipers, front upper strut bar, a trottle body cleaner and a lighter pocket
the oil ah lil bit on the expensive side @ $65 ah quart, which i think i could get at other places a little cheaper, next rounds i'll look around more
well i installed the strut bar, but didnt get to test the car as i wanted, cuz the road was a bit busy and the road was ah lil wet, but from the little driving i did it does quite a lot, especially on corners when the brakes are applied. IMO its a must get
i'll change oil tomorrw and clean the filter, along with the trottle body.
went to trinidad hose to see if i got the connector hoses and t-bolts for the intake
but they dont have and i checked a popular car parts place in south and the connector hoses are $40 an inch(3 inches min. for one connector is needed) and t-bolts were $50 a piece
pics of the strut bar installed to be posted tomorrow  |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | the oil ah lil bit on the expensive side @ $65 ah quart, which i think i could get at other places a little cheaper, next rounds i'll look around more |
Mobil 1 leaves something to be desired, for the price range. If it were cheaper, well then yeah, sure...but frankly, it's nowhere NEAR the highest quality synth oil out there, so that's waaaayyy overpriced IMO....you're better off using Castrol Syntec for your application...cheaper, and it uses the same base oil like the M1, so they're pretty much neck and neck in quality....but from reviews (check http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/) the Syntec has better anti-sludge properties.
Also, 10W30 oil is too thin for our climate IMO. |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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^^^^^ thanks will consider it next oil change. the mobil1 is overpriced but its manufacture recommended. that's the only reason i switched from the castrol gtx to the mobil1 10W30
well i cleaned my filter today and it still wet, so i go have to apply the oil tomorrow and then re-install, i cleaned the trottle body, and shitt that thing was stink, it was black and varnished on grime and sludge, i think all of it is blow by that accumulated there.  |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | well i cleaned my filter today and it still wet, so i go have to apply the oil tomorrow and then re-install |
Careful not to over-oil that K&N......just a thin line of oil on each "ridge". If you over oil, you WILL screw up your MAF sensor.
| Quote: | | i think all of it is blow by that accumulated there |
You shouldn't have much blow by in a VQ20DE. Fairly new engine. If you had blow by, you'd notice it in your car's performance, and in your oil levels (if drastic).
If you DO have blow by, check your PCV system for buildup. |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:02 am Post subject: |
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Careful not to over-oil that K&N......just a thin line of oil on each "ridge". If you over oil, you WILL screw up your MAF sensor.
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yea i have to be careful with that, i now watching the filter and it looks like i missed sum spots cuz it still have sum pink spots, but not much. next time i'll be a little more observant
i dont think the blow by is drastic, and this is the first time i'm cleaning the trottle body, the car is at 88,600km and it came at 23,000km, so i think all that's just there over time. i would have liked to remove the trottle body to clean it but that is ah 2 days work right there with its location and the amount of thinks connected. something strange though, i was expecting white smoke for a few seconds after the car started but i saw nothing, i just assumed that it got trapped in the cat or sumthing(even though it not supposed to )
checking the PCV system in that car is like killing osama it almost impossibe for the normal man.
since its a V6 it would have 2 vents right? or would it still have one? the amount of hoses and vents and vacuum lines it have i not sure what to think
i got ah bad tank of gas the other day, that was the worst the car has ever performed, i got just about 220km from $100 of gas and it was moving dead, not power at all. usually i could get about 380km from the same $100 |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:21 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | checking the PCV system in that car is like killing osama it almost impossibe for the normal man.
since its a V6 it would have 2 vents right? or would it still have one? the amount of hoses and vents and vacuum lines it have i not sure what to think |
Osama Hmmm..very good question though. I think it should still have one main line coming back to your intake. Some systems use a series of check valves along the way...these should be fairly easy to find. Hopefully, if you haven't got too much blow-by, they haven't gotten any buildup in them.
If blow-by is an issue, you can run an Oil Catch Can. I use one....works great, but IMO it's better suited for turbo cars, as blow-by vapours can condense in your intercooler - you have less chance of this happening in an N/A car, as the majoirty (not all though) any oil vapours will most likely remain vapourised. Another, cheaper option, would be to vent your PCV system to the atmosphere, rather than back into your intake. It's only a small flow of air....and it shouldn't affect the system too much (if at all).
So in short, consider one of the following:
1) Use an Oil Catch can (OCC) which vents back to the intake
2) Vent your PCV to the atmosphere, through the use of an OCC if you so desire.
| Quote: | | i got ah bad tank of gas the other day, that was the worst the car has ever performed, i got just about 220km from $100 of gas and it was moving dead, not power at all. usually i could get about 380km from the same $100 |
Check your fuel filter. Most people advise that you use a fuel system cleaner....but this isn't always the best advice. The gas that is made locally already has anti-gum agents / detergents in it....there's no real need for Fuel system cleaner, although a small dosage once in a while can't hurt.
Keep in mind though that the Fuel system cleaner is quite corrosive to rubber tubing and hoses. |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:35 am Post subject: |
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Knight1, good advice.
i was considering the vent filter,(open air) and also the OCC, the OCC is too expensive and i always thought that it was mainly a boosted application, cuz its not like i rev high or i put out huge amounts of power and torque.
since i'll be building a cold air intake soon, i think i'll get the vent filter, that way i have one less piece of tubing running to the new intake, so that means less aluminium welding and the filter is like $110 for a K&N
as for the fuel filter, it was discussed here a couple pages back, that the car dosent have a filter but an in tank strainer that should be replaced once the car hits 100,000km
i've used those fuel treatements only once or twice and that was when i now got the car almost 3 years back. never used them since, cuz of many posts here on tuner advising not to use them.
i would love to feel how this car moves with good gas and not the piss that np sells us, although some cars perform reasonibly well on the crap we have. |
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:24 am Post subject: |
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srry bout the late responce jed.. real work..
and knight1 is right... yuh rubber tubing are at risk with that cleaner..
as for your intake and TB.. cleaning it like every6 months ore 10,000km wud be nice.. or if u board.. ah lil more..
TSC got the wrong strut for me and i eh want the oval silver one he offer.. i rather do without..
so i will update wen things are done according.. right now i hadda get new front tyres as the car shims at 80-100..
tested everything and boiled down to the tyres and the left rim..
new rims comin soon...
after i pass 100.. the car flies smoothly.. |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 7:32 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | i was considering the vent filter,(open air) and also the OCC, the OCC is too expensive and i always thought that it was mainly a boosted application, cuz its not like i rev high or i put out huge amounts of power and torque.
since i'll be building a cold air intake soon, i think i'll get the vent filter, that way i have one less piece of tubing running to the new intake, so that means less aluminium welding |
Here;s my advice on a CAI
1) Get a ready made CAI which will have a bypass feature (to short ram intake) when having to drive through water/ flood/ lots of rain.
2) Make sure that the CAI piping allows for the MAF sensor to be mounted in the same "relative" orientation as in the OEM piping. Remember that the MAF is calibrated for a certain position (yes it is!!), and if you play around with the air flow too much (as in the case of an aftermarket intake), then the MAF may not give the proper reading, and my run too rich or too lean. This is especially applicable to custom made CAIs. You want the MAF to be mounted in such a way, that the piping just before the MAF mimics what was found on OEM.
| Quote: | | i would love to feel how this car moves with good gas and not the piss that np sells us, although some cars perform reasonibly well on the crap we have. |
Well, I don't like the gas either...more RON would be nice. But our gas isn't exactly crap liek most people make it out to be. Most of the components blended in the gas have 100 RON octane, or more! But lets think about this for a second....the gas leaving the refinery IS 95 RON octane. That's more than some other countries get. And many sports cars (N/A anyway) require a minimum of 95 RON octane. |
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Chiney punchin NOS
Joined: 03 Apr 2005 Tech posts: 3063 Location: Maracas,St.Joseph My 2NRide: Nissan Wingroad
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Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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that right on the gas.. its isnt as bad as we think.. jus maybe they shud put gas ALONE in the gas station gas storage.
your idea for the CAI knight1 is not bad.. but the need for the byfas isnt needed.. caca doesnt have to put his CAI all the way there.. and the bypass will only work if the filter is submerged in water. once he can source ah spot for air to come through while driving.. the project can den be done. if u lookin to go so low.. den u will need to spend ah good amount of money to protect that filter... ah good place is where the stock filter gets its air from.. i had the chance to look around and play around in an a33 bonet.. the space the stock filter and harness takes up, once removed u have alot of space and the piping/ filter can be mounted EZ there.. and trust me.. u will get the cold air u want.. jus like it waz gettin with the stock.. and with the pipin the air flow will increase..
but thats jus food for thought  |
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A33_VQ35 Trinituner Peong
Joined: 30 Apr 2004 Tech posts: 428 Location: Nowhere/Everywhere My 2NRide: NISSAN CEFIRO A33
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 7:59 am Post subject: |
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Knight1 Reading up in the FSM it says that the 10W30 oil it good at +38degrees. that is good enough for me. Remember that there are tight clearances in there so while u don't want to run anything to thin u also don't want to run anything to thick. I have used as thin as a 5W30 on my last car(B14) and that was only for 1 oil change. then i switched back to 10W30. Been using it more than 1yr now and no oil related engine problems.
For me i sticking with it. If nissan say so i usin it.
Good reading fellas. Engine here already. Waiting on word to go collect. Will keep u guys posted. |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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plenty info boi!!!
chiney, i getting sum erratic idle cuz of cleaning the trottle body, i think its cuz the ecu has to re-ajust its settings to compensate for the new environment.
got to remove the battery terminal and let the ecu reset then i'll know for sure.
as for the strut bar, well i took it, cuz the order was mixed up with mine too(actually it wasent mixed up but megan racing dosent make the wide bars just the oval ones for the maxima{A32 and A33}) but the oval one is solid, quite strong and trust me i took it cuz of performance not style. and trust me it WORKS!!!!
(did a couple hard 180* turns and a few hard corners on the rally stage in chagauramas this afternoon), man the bar made a big difference since the last time i went there.
i noticed my tires cutting badly, got to locate a good set, most likely its dunlop's again
knight1, good point but as chiney mentioned where i'm going i dont need the bypass, cuz i not that foolish to put my filter less than 18 inches from the ground
if i get yur point about the MAF placement correctly, u mean that i i should mimic the original intake just before the MAF for it to get proper readings? thing is the original position was just after the filter and the air changed direction while passing the filter (almost a U turn in the air stream), and honestly i skeptical about even putting a 90* in my CAI but it has to be done.
also, about the gas they SAY we get 95, but thats what np ships abroad, we get the lower grade fuel, thats why sti's ping soo much, i have a friend who did tests on the gas and it isnt what they say it is. but i agree with chiney, we get too much crap with the gas, like water and sediment.
chiney i get wah u mean bout placing the filter, but i still think that its too close to the radiator, and its wasting money if i put it there, yes it would get some cold air but IMO its not enough, cuz the filter is still exposed to the engine heat and in addition the radiator, when the car is moving, it would be all good, but on a hot day in medium traffic, can u imagine the loss of power
thats why i choose to put it inside the bumper, on the side, just infront the wheel well. one hole would have to be cut, but all that still isnt confirmed.
rodney, how much do u pay for 10W30? i still need one quart again, cuz after putting in one gallon, the level is still too low for my liking, i'll put in one more quart and my mind would be at ease
rodney, why u doh get ah gearbox? it go be more work with the clutch and the exra pedel and the addition of the shifter and other things, but in the long run i think it would be worth it
well on the rally stage i got the opportunity to do 2 handbrake assisted u-turns a.ka. jackass drives
honestly it felt good that the car could do it on loose wet gravel and on a concrete surface, the concret part is actually quite smooth and a good place to pratice drifting, but i doh have ah RWD so i go mellow.
would keep u all informed!!! |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | honestly i skeptical about even putting a 90* in my CAI but it has to be done.
also, about the gas they SAY we get 95, but thats what np ships abroad, we get the lower grade fuel, thats why sti's ping soo much, i have a friend who did tests on the gas and it isnt what they say it is |
Trust me on the gas "cacasplat". I've been part of the testing myself I don't know what your friend told you, but I AM sure that the gas that NP loads onto the tankers at Pointe-a-Pierre is 95 RON. There have been cases where the gas may exceed the RON spec by a little....and the premium gas may actually be closer to 96 RON in some cases.
Whomever told you about us shippingout 95 ROn and selling a lower quality needs to get their facts straight...ASAP. We supply gas quality based on demand /markets. So, we can actually ship higher grade gas (98 RON etc) abroad, as well as lower grades (89, 91)....it just depends on who wants what.
STi's ping on local premium because the Ecu tries to advance the ignition timing to get more power.....advancing the ignition timing leads to pre-detonation.
| Quote: | | ike water and sediment. |
That junk actually comes from the gas station where you buy....not the refinery. Try to buy from a "Quik Shoppe" or a newer gas station. They tend to have newer tanks, with less chance of such junk getting into the gas.
| Quote: | man the bar made a big difference since the last time i went there.
i noticed my tires cutting badly, got to locate a good set, most likely its dunlop's again |
Check your camber, caster, alignment, and of course, take a look at your bushings while you're at it. Most new cars come with gel-filled bushings which give a heavenly ride, but sure don't last on local roads. I'm replace mine with Polyurethanes from Energy Suspension. Those bushings make a surprising difference when it comes to handle and ride stiffness - the car will feel a bit stiffer. And locally made "poly urethane" bushings can't compare...you have no guarantee that those local made ones are perfectly symmetrical, or will fit properly etc etc etc.
If you want better handling, look at upgraded swap bars for instance, along with stiffer sway bar endlinks/bushings. I'm not sure which brands would make thicker sway bars for the Maxima / Cefiro. Maybe Cusco ($$$$), or Whiteline perhaps?
| Quote: | | if i get yur point about the MAF placement correctly, u mean that i i should mimic the original intake just before the MAF for it to get proper readings? thing is the original position was just after the filter and the air changed direction while passing the filter (almost a U turn in the air stream), and honestly i skeptical about even putting a 90* in my CAI but it has to be done. |
yeah..try to mimic it IMO. This goes for the pipe bends, as well as the actual locaton of the MAF (be it to the top, a little to the side etc.).
| Quote: | | cuz the filter is still exposed to the engine heat and in addition the radiator, when the car is moving, |
That's why you should always invest in a heat shield for your conical filter. |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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got yur point on the gas,
but just to add, the bad tank of gas i got a few days ago was from the quicke shoppe in debe everyone complains that the gas is bad there, i guess they dont maintain the tanks.
about the suspension mods, i'm not reall go into spending more money on the car as it is, cuz i'm going diesel soon. for now i'll do the cold air and mabey headders if the price is right.
i e-mailed energy suspension a while back but they have nothing listed for my car
as for heat shield, i'll wont need it if i go CAI  |
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Knight1 Shifting into 6th
Joined: 17 Aug 2005 Tech posts: 2164 Location: On terra firma My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Diesel?
NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At least ah hope it tuhhhhbo.
| Quote: | for now i'll do the cold air and mabey headders if the price is right.
i e-mailed energy suspension a while back but they have nothing listed for my car |
4-2-1 headers maybe? 2.25" exhaust....nothing bigger than that IMO. Bigger exhausts will seriously rop your low end torque.
What about a catback? |
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cacasplat3 punchin NOS
Joined: 29 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 3265 Location: Where Fuel Is Cheaper Than Bottled Water...... My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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diesel would be turbo and the car would go back to my mom.(who only cares about not burning excesive amounts of gas)
headders would be 6-2-1 since is ah front wheel drive V6, the 2 part would be really long to make up the length.
i dont thnink i'll do anything to the OEM piping except de-cat and take out the resenator, but still not sure cuz i not versed in the exhaust department.
i was thinking 2.25 or 2.5 since i've seen online, 2.0l running 2.5 exhausts and sum non turbo SR's here on 2.5 as well
but i want to get the cold air out of the way b4 i move on to the exhaust  |
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