VQ boys......parts, problems, upgrades, swaps, boost

[cacasplat3]

well i have to go look fuh ah reducer, shouldnt be hard to find. and i guess the bend, the man go have to figure out which one to use, only problem i seeing is that the filter may be behind the fans, and that could cause it to draw in some hot air. i have to go under the car and find ah good place to put it, i hope i eh have to cut anything.

wah u talking bout tech post count? look at the time difference on them posts. btw, it easier to just type in the quick reply box than to edit the last post.

i think meh right cradel gone, cuz it making noise. i knew it would ah go soon, cuz when i had the oil leak, the oil was dripping on the cradel bushings, so that oil would have softened up the rubber and lead to it failing.


i wating for the strut bar, i wah see wah it could do to handling. real ppl does say is one of the best mods they did to their car. i'll carry the car on a rally stage in chagauramas tomorrow, and see how it handles, and carry it back after i get the strut bar, and i'll see how much of a difference it makes.
the stage, rather smooth for ah rally course though, and i go make sure not to over do it.

[Chiney]

lol


over do meh foot.. new tyres i smell!!

dude...

oil on yuh cradle eh go frigg yuh bushing.... mags on ah heavy ass car dat we tryin to make FLY go cuz that..

remember yuh higher profile tyres wuda absorb that shock b4 reachin yuh cradle.. now its like ah 'direct port' .. so its gonna get more of ah beating..

in turn u will end up wid worm bushings faster...MAKE SURE U GET THE ORIGINAL!

trust me.. i kno wat i speak of!

[cacasplat3]

makes sense, but my rims are lightweight , on 45 tiers running 36psi infront, so that would add to the shock on the bushings, but i wah go 18's BAAAAAAAAAAD!!!!

btw i will only use original when changing things like cradels and other key suspension parts.


as for the rally stage....... i went this afternoon, with 3 other guys in the car, man that stage shitty, no big corners, one set ah bush sticking out into the road hitting meh mirrors. i do ah couple half doughnuts, and one high speed, u-turn, i really didnt realise that the car had that much handling capabilities, cuz the car made the corner without even slipping. btw this was done on a concrete surface, with sum light sand on it, and was resonably smooth.

when i get the strut bar i going back up and see what happens, i wont try the doughnuts again though, that is just wildness

[Chiney]

yo.. 36psi is to hard

u hadda be mad yes
31PSI for de most
yuh engine in front hoss!! not behind
and well de back is 30PSI

and yes.. thats for your 17"


36psi.. ..........

[cacasplat3]

^^^^^ reason i on 36 is cuz at 34 the tires still cut on the outside(underinflated) thats why i bumped up the pressure.

[A33_VQ35]

Got some interesting info for you guys...............

Engine Power Curves

Lets take the first step and look at the dyno power and torque curves for the engines: the VE30DE, the VQ30DE, and the VQ30DE-K.

3rd Generation (1992-1994 SE): VE30DE, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 190HP @ 5600rpm, 190 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Iron block and heads, variable valve timing, variable intake manifold.

4th Generation (1995-1999 all models): VQ30DE, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 190HP @ 5600rpm, 205 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Aluminum block and heads, NO variable valve timing, NO variable intake manifold.

5th Generation (2000-2001 all models): VQ30DE-K, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 222HP @ 6400rpm, 217 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Aluminum block and heads, NO variable valve timing, variable intake manifold.

Putting these engines to the test on the popular Dynojet 248 chassis dynamometer will net the following typical peak results below, although your individual car may test out slightly lower or higher:

3rd Gen VE30DE: 164whp/167wtq
4th Gen VQ30DE: 161 whp/174wtq
5th Gen VQ30DE-K: 186 whp/186wtq


Seeing the power curves for the engines, it's very easy to conclude that the VQ30DE-K with 222HP (186 whp) is by far the most powerful or the three engines. Also apparent is that the VE30DE engine has a bit more power at the top-end than the identically rated VQ30DE engine, most likely due to the VE engine's variable valve timing and variable intake manifold technologies that the VQ engine lacks.

Note that these figures are in wheel horsepower and torque, and that they are lower than the peak advertised numbers. This is because drivetrain components themselves require energy to use such that by the time the engine's power finally gets to where the rubber meets the pavement there is something less than what the engine started with. Typically, a Dynojet dynamometer will record a "loss" of 15-18% for manual drivetrains, and 22-25% for automatic drivetrains. The Dynojet dynos are passive rolling load type dynamometers, so the vehicle is tested while accelerating. Some additional energy is lost accelerating the engine and drivetrain components themselves, so there is not really this much "loss", but that is for another technical discussion. If you have ever wondered why manual transmission equipped cars are generally faster than their automatic counterparts, the difference in drivetrain efficiency is a big part of that, along with the fact that manuals tend to have an extra gear with more aggressive ratios than automatic transmissions.


Power to Weight Ratio Curves

Now that we have established the force that each of these engines are able to produce at each point along their RPM ranges, now we can figure in the mass that each of these engines are pulling to determine their overall acceleration rates.

3rd Generation: approx 3100 lbs.
4th Generation: approx 3000 lbs.
5th Generation: approx 3200 lbs.

We know that the 5th Gen Maxima clearly has the most overall power from the previous section, but it is also by far the heaviest of the three, and as you can see in Figure 2 below, this has a very significant impact on the vehicle's performance.


Now that weight has been accounted for, our calculations show that even with all of the extra power, the 5th Gen Maxima does not have much more, if any, acceleration potential than the 4th Gen Maxima until after 5500rpm. Otherwise the cars are pretty close, although the results indicate that the 5th Gen will edge ahead at the top of each gear. Also, one might not have thought that the 4th Gen Maxima with the same 190HP as the 3rd Gen would be any faster. However, because of the added torque and the reduced weight from the aluminum block VQ engine vs the VE's heavier iron block, the 4th Gen now has a clear advantage against the 3rd Gen.

So if we end the comparison here, it's a pretty close race overall with the 5th Gen Maxima taking a slight lead, the 4th Gen Maxima just behind, and then finally the 3rd Gen Maxima nipping at the heels of the 4th Gen VQ.

However, it doesn't end there.

From discussions with fellow Maxima owners on the Maxima.org Forums, it has generally been concluded that the 4th Gen Maxima's are actually slightly faster than the 5th Gen's. Stock vs stock, and modded vs modded, the 4th Gen's tend to put down slightly better times at the track, and they also tend to do slightly better in informal street competitions. Even members that have owned both 4th Gen and 5th Gen Maxima's have said that their 4th Gen's felt a bit faster, although their 5th Gen's still had better highway pickup thanks to the better top-end. So what's wrong with this picture? The dyno comparison shows that the 5th Gen should be faster overall, yet it's generally agreed upon that the 4th Gen's are the faster overall car. What gives?


Wheel/Tire Weight vs Vehicle Performance

Professional and enthusiast cyclists know all about this, but it's often taken for granted among enthusiast circles in the automotive world. The heavier your wheels are, the more rotational inertia (drag) they'll have which means they will be more difficult to accelerate. To understand this concept, imagine that you have a small children's bicycle up on a stand. One of these small wheels may have about the same overall diameter as the wheels on your car. You can easily put your finger on one of the wheel spokes of the bicycle and get it spinning easily. Now try the same thing with one of your car's wheels. You'll probably end up with a very sore finger!! Even though the diameter of the wheels are the same, the wheel (and tire) on your car is significantly heavier and requires many orders of magnitude greater force to get it accelerating at the same rate as the bicycle wheel. It's not just that the wheels and tires themselves are heavier, but rather that you must accelerate this weight around and around in circles that makes it more difficult to accelerate.

Without going into the equations too much (I = mr2), the lighter your overall wheel and tire combination weight is, the smaller the moment of inertia will be for accelerating them, which will allow your car to accelerate faster. Also, the closer the center of mass of the wheel and tire combined is to the axis of rotation, the smaller the moment of inertia will be, which again will allow for faster acceleration. A good approximation for this is to just assume that the center of mass of your wheel and tire is equal to the radius of the wheel itself. If you have 18" rims and low-profile tires that in total weigh about 55lb and then switch to much lighter 15" rims and taller tires (while keeping tire diameter the same) for a total weight of 40lb you now have a two-fold benefit. First, you reduced the moment of inertia by reducing the weight of your wheel/tire combination by 15 lb. Secondly, you further reduced the moment of inertia by keeping the center of wheel/tire mass closer to the axis of rotation. So in the process of doing this switch, you lightened your car by 60lb, but also reduced the moment of inertia of your wheel and tires by 50% which will in turn allow for better acceleration.

So how big of a difference does a low moment of rotational inertia make? Well, the actual equations and algebra needed to show this directly get a little complex for those that are not engineers or mathematicians, so we will not do that here. However, a good approximation has been discussed and widely agreed upon that states that every single pound you add to your wheel and tire combination is equivalent to adding eight pounds to the curb weight of your car. However, you don't just have one wheel and tire. You have four of them, and all four wheels require energy to accelerate. In the above example of going from 15" to 18" rims and vice versa, that represents a difference of 480 lb of curb weight!!!! Now it's very easy to see how significant just a few extra pounds of wheel and tire mass can become. So now lets take a look at our Maxima's to see what the differences are.

Both 3rd Gen and 4th Gen Maxima's were shipped with 15" rims that weighed approximately 40lbs. including their tires. In 1997 the 4th Gen's got slightly larger 16" rims with a 2lbs. increase to 42lbs. for the new wheel/tire combination weight. Initial 5th Gen SE's were shipped with 16" rims as well (approximately 42lb) because the 17" rims were late availability. Once the 17" rims became available, all further SE's were shipped with 17" rims weighing 50lb including the tires. 17" rims account for the majority of the 2000-2001 Maxima SE's. Since the 16" rims are the middle ground, we'll use that as our baseline and then adjust the other curb weights from that point.


Taken from http://www.maxima.org/modules.php?name=30_comparisons

Bear i mind that this is using the bigger 3L engine.

Alot more reading on the link above. to much to post.

The engine(VQ35DE) suppose to be tomorrow, so hopefully within 2 weeks i should have it. Will keep u guys updated. Keep yur eyes open for anyone who may want an engine(VQ20DE) with transmission to buy


One thing to clear up, the VQ30DE-K is the newer model engines with the black plastic variable intake manifold. The older models came with a metal intake manifold that does not have the VAIS(variable air induction system)

[cacasplat3]

good read. i eh sure how much my wheels weigh but i sure is just about stock weight, cuz it had steel rims with sum big walled tires.
so the VQ i got would be a k engine too? i eh know nah but it has the black intake manifold.

looks like the tranny takes up a lot of power, so switching to a gearbox go be like putting 2 or 3 psi ah boost


rodney u had installed the e-manage? i thinking about getting the blue instead of the ultimate. i doh know if i could get any performance out of it, by prob running on a slightly richer mix, and by mabey advancing ignition a degree or 2

got to get sum advice first.
i still wating to organise meh intake. i done decice i not paying more than 450 to do it. cuz i have my filter and is not 4 or five pieces of piping i using

btw this is my engine bay. notice the crapp position of the filter

Click for full-size.

[A33_VQ35]

Yeah ours is a K engine. I think chiney is de normal DE with the metal intake manifold.
Ent u have de intake air temp sensor behind yuh MAF??? so y u leave in de stock air box??? Pull dat sucker out.

I eh install de emanage yet. Waiting on de new engine to put it in. Actually i eh tink de blue would work on our engine. Greddy built in the VQ in de ultimate, as it have more features dan de blue. U could also use the SAFC, not sure if it's 1 or 11 though. will check de forum.
What they were saying is that u can get bigger injectors and then use the SAFC to pull fuel and it would up your timing throughout your RPM range. Is not about running rich apparently. Is about running lean - stoich without detonation. From what i gather running rich actually robs power.

They say de ecu program to run rich after a certain RPM (thing is like around 5500) to make u feel u losing power and cause u to shift gears!! So when u feel u making power u actually not. There is a whole post about timing advance on de forum. Have it save on work. will post it up for u an chiney to read.

Dread it have real simple things u can do to get a extra uumph out dem engines, not no rocket science nah. Jus some basic background of how engines work yes an yuh orn.

And yeah dat gearbox thing sounding real bess, but i read u WILL need to get a manual ecu for our cars for de car to move otherwise it eh moving for sheit!!!! Something to do with the fact that it have a seperate computer for the tranny and a cable connecting the transmission control module to the main ecu. The main ecu does get speed readings, gear readings an other sheit from it so if it eh seeing it or getting de readings de car would never move.

When i do meh swap i will post all what is needed to get for de swap to work, although i eh puttin in manual, i will better understand what de car can and cannot work without.

[Chiney]

yo.. u alive hoss!!

i see u all de way beind that vq35

nice ness!!

jed.. i have the cast iron intake manifold

is that really plastic? or ah cover.. if so.. OH GEED!!!

[A33_VQ35]

[cacasplat3]

[A33_VQ35]

I tell yuh dem ting fasssstttt. An he hav de VQ in it eh. de one i get licks by had the QR in it i think. i eh see de back cause he couldn't pass me.

Yeah i may have to pass by imraj as i think de 3.5L cars had dual exhaust all the way to the end, so my 2inch size will real hold meh back.

[cacasplat3]

well i guess i go just put headders, and the cold air, mabey do sum dress-up like lowering springs and thats about it, the rest of the money will have to go into ah project car, i thinking about ah oil catch can too. greddy sells for like 105 US, not ah bad price, and the cusco looks lice too, just to dress up the engine, bay, but it helps with the blow by and by extension blow by decreases octane levels in fuels.

btw u know of any aftermarket performance chips?


and i have to get ah manual for this car dread!!!! too many things i doing by guess.

[cinco]

i been spyin on yuh thread nice info fellas
fuh aftermarket ecu tuning cud always look at Jim Wolf or superchips

[cacasplat3]

^^^^^ according to maxima.org users, the jim wolf re-flashed ecu dosent work well, cuz of mainly 2 things: they reflash it to run toooooooo rich (sum cases below 10:1 ratio ) and they advance timing by too much (10*) which causes a loss of power. one guy experienced a loss of over 75whp by using a JWT reflashed ECU, he had it reconverted to stock and used either an e-manage blue or ultimate, i cant emember which exactly. the SAFC's dont come highly recommended either on maxima.org




who could bring in this for me? $25 US for it and $50 US shipping to trinidad, i doh have ah credit card nah

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[A33_VQ35]

[Chiney]

rodney t .. the intake manifold spec u talk of i kno about.. wen the extra port opens.. loads for air it takes in..

as for me today.. on de highway i merge and had CLEAR road infront of me this civic playin he ass cuz i merge he like wanna get infront of me.. all i see is this white HORNdah in meh rearview starting to disappear yes.. wen i go so i at 160somn ez ez de car sittin and if i did mash all de way dong i wuda fly past 170.. dat CAI and the lil new stuff and iridium plugs and dem lil lil mods workin.. especially de CAI

car real moving!!!

[cacasplat3]

wah 'lil stuff'?




alluh doh share man, and doh go embarassing no civics, i do it enough to them already

i have like 2 sir's down ah lev and ah hatch.

thing to do is to hold yuh rpm at 4000, and the car will keep building speed until about 165, then when u find it stop accelerating, just floor it, car down shifts and is like boost

ah morning i did it to ah 2006 1.6 impreza, well hmmmmmm when meh sis hear the engine start to scream she was like "WOW!!!!" after she asking me 'the car supposed to do that?'


plz note this burns a substantial amount of gas, and i will not be held responsible for this



got to get the cold air but i not getting freaking time. i have the money in ah envilope just wating to be spent.

wah is ah good size of piping to use on ah cat-back? i thinking about de-catting for the time though



EDIT: I WAS NOT STREET RACING AS THESE OTHER CARS DID NOT HAVE A CHANCE

[Chiney]

helped ah friend clean up ah a33 de odda day gorn dey..

under that hood is stress.. yall got REAL intake "stuff"
lol

i mean.. all that stress for the air to reach the TB..

the cold air will be ah bit of hassle for the a33.. there no lie..

but its possible..

u gotta remove the battery.. and its entire stand.. which i will say.. IS VERY tiresome and can be time consuming.. did it alrdy...

and the position is up to u.. make sure it gets the air eh pallie..

lol

other than that.. we still tryin to make ah concrete block fly..

rodney T on de odda hand.. well.. "sigh"

[A33_VQ35]

^^ N2O boy N2O will make anything fly.