VQ boys......parts, problems, upgrades, swaps, boost

[cacasplat3]

for rodney. this one not in english either but its a boosted VQ35.
looks to have e-manage installed.

http://www.libero.co.kr/cli...code=CL0105&no=385&page=1

[Chiney]

ssrry dey fellas.. school work, other stuff keepin me away from my laptop..

u goin loose the car boy CACA>. thats gonna sucks..

well.. it pops car i usin here and well he doe care bout de mods nah.. i does do watever wid it.. and use it.. he doe even like to drive once i around..

but say wah..i goin get ah project car soon.. or jus do ah simple boost on this..

not soon though..

[cacasplat3]

[Chiney]

6 psi?



naaa..cud do 10 nice!!

[cacasplat3]

^^^^ u sure? on stock internals?

right now i in ah dilema. is one out ah 2 things.
1. get custom built headers and y-pipe and a 2.5 cat back, cold air intake, and suspension mods(cheaper project)
or
2. turbo to 6psi(or 10 if it safe on the internals) with the custom headers, up-pipe and other exhaust mods, cold air intake, suspension, 300zx/R32/R33 big brakes(front and back)

suspension would be a full coilover setup from tein, with EDFC(electronic damping force controller) and front and rear strut bars.



p.s. i dont know what i have to do to the tranny for it to handle the extra power if i going boosted.

most likely it would be the second project and it would materalise by...........year end next year. by then i should have enough $$$$$ to fully complete the project.

[Chiney]

i wish i cuda get ah r33 tranny for the car.. that wud be SWEET!!

but i think the internals i can take it

google is yuh friend.. check out and see wat pplz did to it..

[cacasplat3]

i feel i go pass by pretence, that is ah good friend of ah friend
find out wah i could do. google only good fuh VQ30 and VQ35, is like the 2.0 doh exist

[cacasplat3]

well last night i do one long read of ah fella on maxima.org

is not bout what he did to the car but in the final stages. he had sum electronics, SAFC or sumthing so and a couple others. that is the money right there
he running 5.9 psi on stock internals on a 3.0 infiniti, all in all after no tuning just the 5.9 psi he put down 260hp i think. he say no problems, but what i understand is that if u have a gearbox(A32 only) its easier to turbo cuz u have more room to work with. (damn u chiney ) now A33 men like me have sum problems with space
considering that 3.0l's come with about 190hp, and with less than 6psi he's up by 70hp, thats quite good.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=387416&page=2

so if 10 safe on the 2.0l i wonder how much i'll be up by.


i was just reading another one, says that it isnt the amount of boost that would kill yur engine, its the torque, i still doh know how much will kill mine but i doh intend to reach close to that. i'll post any other links i find interesting.
btw this is in the turbo/supercharging forum on maxima.org

oh btw i think this is meh 800th tech post on tuner

[cacasplat3]

check this install. this man crazy yes!!!

Click for full-size.

he says its 1/2 inch to 1 inch higher than the lowest point on his engine/tranny and he says he has never bottomed out his car. he better thank god he doh live in trinidad

full undercarrage

Click for full-size.

notice the h-brace(black) i wonder if its custom built

[Chiney]

i like the install.. but no in trinidad na!!

my sister's Mazda CX-8 pumps out 244 HP at stock.. runing 15PSI wid 18" wheels.. enough wheel spin there and full 3" exhaust system.. its 4 cylinder and 2.3 DIRECT PORT!

tip tronic tranny is beast wid it..

that sheit flies !!

did i mentions its made with the rx8 in mind??

take ah look.. here wat my sis drives!

[Chiney]

[Chiney]

oh.. and reachin 180km/h on this baby is like reaching 80km/h on ours..

[cacasplat3]

well speed wise i eh mind, but the design leaves lots to be desired. i never liked the rx8 and i eh like this either. no disrespect.
oh hear wah, doh bother bout the gauges, i eh doing that again. i just putting the cold air and the strut bar for the time.

i decided to go boost at the end of next year so i eh doing anything minor now. if i come across any good deals i'll take them. like brakes or engine management.


now this is what i learnt today
boosting a 3.0l VQ
keep timing close to stock, advance 4-5 degrees MAX.
use larger injectors and 255 fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator
use emanage, nothing else. safc is usless according to many on maxima.org
JWT remapped ecu is usless as well cuz they advance timing too much and u run too rich as well(one guy ran an air/fuel ratio of less than 10 wih a JWT flashed ecu)
running too rich would kill u cuz u only wetting yuh cylinder walls, carbon build up, valves may not seat properly eventually causing repairs.
run 12psi max. with good work this would be good to have a reliable daily driven car.


it looks like the biggest challanges are space and electronics. there are a few good mechs here who would make this project a reaility. i hope to be doing this by year end next year. should cost over $25,000 if done right. which is good for about 260hp at 10 psi. 10psi on a 3.0l brings around 310hp with proper tuning and a good setup.

remember it better to measure 10 times and cut once that to measure once and cut 10 times

[Chiney]

u eh like dat nor de rx8


u need help child...

i gorn wid dat now yes

[cacasplat3]

^^^^ honestly u doh find it ugly?


direct port u say!!!!! mazda moving up boi


alluh know if u could change a non lsd tranny to a lsd tranny? and no i not changing the tranny unless is ah gearbox i getting




















































































ah wish i could get that

[Chiney]

here nah.. does do some serious checkin fuh de gearbox for yuh tranny.. they have it around man.. yuh must be able to get ah gearbox for it hoss..

[cacasplat3]

if ah A32 one would work, that is no problem, i could get that from japan easy, but i eh sure if it would. i'll do sum checking, and talk to a mech or two.

oh ho, last night i was looking at the thread where u built the cold air, what was the 2nd bend u use? i know the 1st was 60* but i cyah really figure it out.
oh and what is your trottle body diameter? yesterday i check mine and is sumwhere between 2 1/2 and 2 3/4. i thought it would ah be 3" looks like i go need ah redusing silicone hose for that part.

[cacasplat3]

to add to that, the trottle body stink on the inside, one set ah black muck from blow by and any other stuff that was there before, i could just imagine what inside the intake runners looking like. no easy way to clean the runners but before i do the CAI i HAVE to clean the trottle body and clean that filter too. btw how do u clean the MAF?

[cacasplat3]

did a little more reading on boosted 3.0l, one particular guy with 10psi and on N2O, did 468hp(cant remember the exact figure) and 500ft-lbf on stock internals



i want one.



no one have VQ20's so i will never know how far i could carry the engine, guess i have to do trial and error, wish i could get aftermarket internals to run high boost safley.

[Chiney]

^^ dats ah wish in tru..


the trottle is 2.75"

u need ah reducer.. supposed to come with ah CAI kit..

and well..i eh kno bout the 2nd bend nah..

hoss u realize i eh need to post all 3 times eh.. jus 1 big post..

yuh tech post count eh life and death

[cacasplat3]

well i have to go look fuh ah reducer, shouldnt be hard to find. and i guess the bend, the man go have to figure out which one to use, only problem i seeing is that the filter may be behind the fans, and that could cause it to draw in some hot air. i have to go under the car and find ah good place to put it, i hope i eh have to cut anything.

wah u talking bout tech post count? look at the time difference on them posts. btw, it easier to just type in the quick reply box than to edit the last post.

i think meh right cradel gone, cuz it making noise. i knew it would ah go soon, cuz when i had the oil leak, the oil was dripping on the cradel bushings, so that oil would have softened up the rubber and lead to it failing.


i wating for the strut bar, i wah see wah it could do to handling. real ppl does say is one of the best mods they did to their car. i'll carry the car on a rally stage in chagauramas tomorrow, and see how it handles, and carry it back after i get the strut bar, and i'll see how much of a difference it makes.
the stage, rather smooth for ah rally course though, and i go make sure not to over do it.

[Chiney]

lol


over do meh foot.. new tyres i smell!!

dude...

oil on yuh cradle eh go frigg yuh bushing.... mags on ah heavy ass car dat we tryin to make FLY go cuz that..

remember yuh higher profile tyres wuda absorb that shock b4 reachin yuh cradle.. now its like ah 'direct port' .. so its gonna get more of ah beating..

in turn u will end up wid worm bushings faster...MAKE SURE U GET THE ORIGINAL!

trust me.. i kno wat i speak of!

[cacasplat3]

makes sense, but my rims are lightweight , on 45 tiers running 36psi infront, so that would add to the shock on the bushings, but i wah go 18's BAAAAAAAAAAD!!!!

btw i will only use original when changing things like cradels and other key suspension parts.


as for the rally stage....... i went this afternoon, with 3 other guys in the car, man that stage shitty, no big corners, one set ah bush sticking out into the road hitting meh mirrors. i do ah couple half doughnuts, and one high speed, u-turn, i really didnt realise that the car had that much handling capabilities, cuz the car made the corner without even slipping. btw this was done on a concrete surface, with sum light sand on it, and was resonably smooth.

when i get the strut bar i going back up and see what happens, i wont try the doughnuts again though, that is just wildness

[Chiney]

yo.. 36psi is to hard

u hadda be mad yes
31PSI for de most
yuh engine in front hoss!! not behind
and well de back is 30PSI

and yes.. thats for your 17"


36psi.. ..........

[cacasplat3]

^^^^^ reason i on 36 is cuz at 34 the tires still cut on the outside(underinflated) thats why i bumped up the pressure.

[A33_VQ35]

Got some interesting info for you guys...............

Engine Power Curves

Lets take the first step and look at the dyno power and torque curves for the engines: the VE30DE, the VQ30DE, and the VQ30DE-K.

3rd Generation (1992-1994 SE): VE30DE, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 190HP @ 5600rpm, 190 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Iron block and heads, variable valve timing, variable intake manifold.

4th Generation (1995-1999 all models): VQ30DE, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 190HP @ 5600rpm, 205 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Aluminum block and heads, NO variable valve timing, NO variable intake manifold.

5th Generation (2000-2001 all models): VQ30DE-K, 3.0L DOHC 24-valve V6. 222HP @ 6400rpm, 217 lb-ft @ 4000rpm. Aluminum block and heads, NO variable valve timing, variable intake manifold.

Putting these engines to the test on the popular Dynojet 248 chassis dynamometer will net the following typical peak results below, although your individual car may test out slightly lower or higher:

3rd Gen VE30DE: 164whp/167wtq
4th Gen VQ30DE: 161 whp/174wtq
5th Gen VQ30DE-K: 186 whp/186wtq


Seeing the power curves for the engines, it's very easy to conclude that the VQ30DE-K with 222HP (186 whp) is by far the most powerful or the three engines. Also apparent is that the VE30DE engine has a bit more power at the top-end than the identically rated VQ30DE engine, most likely due to the VE engine's variable valve timing and variable intake manifold technologies that the VQ engine lacks.

Note that these figures are in wheel horsepower and torque, and that they are lower than the peak advertised numbers. This is because drivetrain components themselves require energy to use such that by the time the engine's power finally gets to where the rubber meets the pavement there is something less than what the engine started with. Typically, a Dynojet dynamometer will record a "loss" of 15-18% for manual drivetrains, and 22-25% for automatic drivetrains. The Dynojet dynos are passive rolling load type dynamometers, so the vehicle is tested while accelerating. Some additional energy is lost accelerating the engine and drivetrain components themselves, so there is not really this much "loss", but that is for another technical discussion. If you have ever wondered why manual transmission equipped cars are generally faster than their automatic counterparts, the difference in drivetrain efficiency is a big part of that, along with the fact that manuals tend to have an extra gear with more aggressive ratios than automatic transmissions.


Power to Weight Ratio Curves

Now that we have established the force that each of these engines are able to produce at each point along their RPM ranges, now we can figure in the mass that each of these engines are pulling to determine their overall acceleration rates.

3rd Generation: approx 3100 lbs.
4th Generation: approx 3000 lbs.
5th Generation: approx 3200 lbs.

We know that the 5th Gen Maxima clearly has the most overall power from the previous section, but it is also by far the heaviest of the three, and as you can see in Figure 2 below, this has a very significant impact on the vehicle's performance.


Now that weight has been accounted for, our calculations show that even with all of the extra power, the 5th Gen Maxima does not have much more, if any, acceleration potential than the 4th Gen Maxima until after 5500rpm. Otherwise the cars are pretty close, although the results indicate that the 5th Gen will edge ahead at the top of each gear. Also, one might not have thought that the 4th Gen Maxima with the same 190HP as the 3rd Gen would be any faster. However, because of the added torque and the reduced weight from the aluminum block VQ engine vs the VE's heavier iron block, the 4th Gen now has a clear advantage against the 3rd Gen.

So if we end the comparison here, it's a pretty close race overall with the 5th Gen Maxima taking a slight lead, the 4th Gen Maxima just behind, and then finally the 3rd Gen Maxima nipping at the heels of the 4th Gen VQ.

However, it doesn't end there.

From discussions with fellow Maxima owners on the Maxima.org Forums, it has generally been concluded that the 4th Gen Maxima's are actually slightly faster than the 5th Gen's. Stock vs stock, and modded vs modded, the 4th Gen's tend to put down slightly better times at the track, and they also tend to do slightly better in informal street competitions. Even members that have owned both 4th Gen and 5th Gen Maxima's have said that their 4th Gen's felt a bit faster, although their 5th Gen's still had better highway pickup thanks to the better top-end. So what's wrong with this picture? The dyno comparison shows that the 5th Gen should be faster overall, yet it's generally agreed upon that the 4th Gen's are the faster overall car. What gives?


Wheel/Tire Weight vs Vehicle Performance

Professional and enthusiast cyclists know all about this, but it's often taken for granted among enthusiast circles in the automotive world. The heavier your wheels are, the more rotational inertia (drag) they'll have which means they will be more difficult to accelerate. To understand this concept, imagine that you have a small children's bicycle up on a stand. One of these small wheels may have about the same overall diameter as the wheels on your car. You can easily put your finger on one of the wheel spokes of the bicycle and get it spinning easily. Now try the same thing with one of your car's wheels. You'll probably end up with a very sore finger!! Even though the diameter of the wheels are the same, the wheel (and tire) on your car is significantly heavier and requires many orders of magnitude greater force to get it accelerating at the same rate as the bicycle wheel. It's not just that the wheels and tires themselves are heavier, but rather that you must accelerate this weight around and around in circles that makes it more difficult to accelerate.

Without going into the equations too much (I = mr2), the lighter your overall wheel and tire combination weight is, the smaller the moment of inertia will be for accelerating them, which will allow your car to accelerate faster. Also, the closer the center of mass of the wheel and tire combined is to the axis of rotation, the smaller the moment of inertia will be, which again will allow for faster acceleration. A good approximation for this is to just assume that the center of mass of your wheel and tire is equal to the radius of the wheel itself. If you have 18" rims and low-profile tires that in total weigh about 55lb and then switch to much lighter 15" rims and taller tires (while keeping tire diameter the same) for a total weight of 40lb you now have a two-fold benefit. First, you reduced the moment of inertia by reducing the weight of your wheel/tire combination by 15 lb. Secondly, you further reduced the moment of inertia by keeping the center of wheel/tire mass closer to the axis of rotation. So in the process of doing this switch, you lightened your car by 60lb, but also reduced the moment of inertia of your wheel and tires by 50% which will in turn allow for better acceleration.

So how big of a difference does a low moment of rotational inertia make? Well, the actual equations and algebra needed to show this directly get a little complex for those that are not engineers or mathematicians, so we will not do that here. However, a good approximation has been discussed and widely agreed upon that states that every single pound you add to your wheel and tire combination is equivalent to adding eight pounds to the curb weight of your car. However, you don't just have one wheel and tire. You have four of them, and all four wheels require energy to accelerate. In the above example of going from 15" to 18" rims and vice versa, that represents a difference of 480 lb of curb weight!!!! Now it's very easy to see how significant just a few extra pounds of wheel and tire mass can become. So now lets take a look at our Maxima's to see what the differences are.

Both 3rd Gen and 4th Gen Maxima's were shipped with 15" rims that weighed approximately 40lbs. including their tires. In 1997 the 4th Gen's got slightly larger 16" rims with a 2lbs. increase to 42lbs. for the new wheel/tire combination weight. Initial 5th Gen SE's were shipped with 16" rims as well (approximately 42lb) because the 17" rims were late availability. Once the 17" rims became available, all further SE's were shipped with 17" rims weighing 50lb including the tires. 17" rims account for the majority of the 2000-2001 Maxima SE's. Since the 16" rims are the middle ground, we'll use that as our baseline and then adjust the other curb weights from that point.


Taken from http://www.maxima.org/modules.php?name=30_comparisons

Bear i mind that this is using the bigger 3L engine.

Alot more reading on the link above. to much to post.

The engine(VQ35DE) suppose to be tomorrow, so hopefully within 2 weeks i should have it. Will keep u guys updated. Keep yur eyes open for anyone who may want an engine(VQ20DE) with transmission to buy


One thing to clear up, the VQ30DE-K is the newer model engines with the black plastic variable intake manifold. The older models came with a metal intake manifold that does not have the VAIS(variable air induction system)

[cacasplat3]

good read. i eh sure how much my wheels weigh but i sure is just about stock weight, cuz it had steel rims with sum big walled tires.
so the VQ i got would be a k engine too? i eh know nah but it has the black intake manifold.

looks like the tranny takes up a lot of power, so switching to a gearbox go be like putting 2 or 3 psi ah boost


rodney u had installed the e-manage? i thinking about getting the blue instead of the ultimate. i doh know if i could get any performance out of it, by prob running on a slightly richer mix, and by mabey advancing ignition a degree or 2

got to get sum advice first.
i still wating to organise meh intake. i done decice i not paying more than 450 to do it. cuz i have my filter and is not 4 or five pieces of piping i using

btw this is my engine bay. notice the crapp position of the filter

Click for full-size.

[A33_VQ35]

Yeah ours is a K engine. I think chiney is de normal DE with the metal intake manifold.
Ent u have de intake air temp sensor behind yuh MAF??? so y u leave in de stock air box??? Pull dat sucker out.

I eh install de emanage yet. Waiting on de new engine to put it in. Actually i eh tink de blue would work on our engine. Greddy built in the VQ in de ultimate, as it have more features dan de blue. U could also use the SAFC, not sure if it's 1 or 11 though. will check de forum.
What they were saying is that u can get bigger injectors and then use the SAFC to pull fuel and it would up your timing throughout your RPM range. Is not about running rich apparently. Is about running lean - stoich without detonation. From what i gather running rich actually robs power.

They say de ecu program to run rich after a certain RPM (thing is like around 5500) to make u feel u losing power and cause u to shift gears!! So when u feel u making power u actually not. There is a whole post about timing advance on de forum. Have it save on work. will post it up for u an chiney to read.

Dread it have real simple things u can do to get a extra uumph out dem engines, not no rocket science nah. Jus some basic background of how engines work yes an yuh orn.

And yeah dat gearbox thing sounding real bess, but i read u WILL need to get a manual ecu for our cars for de car to move otherwise it eh moving for sheit!!!! Something to do with the fact that it have a seperate computer for the tranny and a cable connecting the transmission control module to the main ecu. The main ecu does get speed readings, gear readings an other sheit from it so if it eh seeing it or getting de readings de car would never move.

When i do meh swap i will post all what is needed to get for de swap to work, although i eh puttin in manual, i will better understand what de car can and cannot work without.

[Chiney]

yo.. u alive hoss!!

i see u all de way beind that vq35

nice ness!!

jed.. i have the cast iron intake manifold

is that really plastic? or ah cover.. if so.. OH GEED!!!

[A33_VQ35]