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kurpal_v2 TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Tech posts: 1365 Location: angle mounting fets My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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I have a fear of having too big terminal holes..
Also fear of alternator failure(them thing na cheap).
SSC i was just asking if you ever did any cars big 3 with 0awg.. |
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theblitz Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Tech posts: 680 Location: South Trinidad My 2NRide: Toyota Corolla
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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alt won't fail because the 'current pipe' from it is larger.... it will if you demand too much of it. With even 4AWG you can demand too much from a stock alt.
Anyway, I gonna do over mine with 0 or 2 b4 month's end since the 4AWG that's there came with the car and is old looking and getting stiff. Bigger alt too is the main reason. |
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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| kurpal_v2 wrote: | I wanna use 0awg to eliminate any possible bottlenecks within the charging system but Ive read some stuff like this
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The biggest problem with output studs melting is actually the connector that you use. 99% of all 1/0 crimp-on cable ends have a 8mm hole in them. When you use a 8mm hole on a 6mm stud, the contact surface area is GREATLY reduced. This creates a restriction in current flow, and subsequently a hot spot that can burn up. |
So the question that comes to my mind is should I get 4awg wire? I dont want to cause I have a lot of 0awg sitting around. |
just read the bold part, ignore everything else.. you misread what they are talking about..
with ANY size wire, if there is an improper connection / slack connection / inadequately sized connector etc, that will cause an area of higher resistance, that section of high resistance will become heated when there is large current flow through the wire..
larger diameter wire has less resistance overall, which means more current transfer and less heat in the wire.. |
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kurpal_v2 TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Tech posts: 1365 Location: angle mounting fets My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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^^ Got a solution gonna try it and pass by bicks to see if they have rav4 alts just in case..  |
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theblitz Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Tech posts: 680 Location: South Trinidad My 2NRide: Toyota Corolla
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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obviously you won't have a slack connection in ur big 3.... yuh mad owat  |
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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| kurpal_v2 wrote: | ^^ Got a solution gonna try it and pass by bicks to see if they have rav4 alts just in case..  |
if you need any help in soldering up the connections, lemme know..
i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting..  |
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kurpal_v2 TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Tech posts: 1365 Location: angle mounting fets My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting. |
Dude that is the plan self...what you doing this weekend? Gimme a call. |
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southside connections 12 pounds of Boost
Joined: 17 Nov 2006 Tech posts: 2253
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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| or you can head to any eltrical store and buy copper ring terminals |
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kurpal_v2 TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Tech posts: 1365 Location: angle mounting fets My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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| blank terminals? |
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southside connections 12 pounds of Boost
Joined: 17 Nov 2006 Tech posts: 2253
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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but wait
that what u sad there
| Quote: | | i would recommend in using a copper or brass washer when connecting the terminal to your alternator, it would increase the contact area, thus preventing any chance of melting. |
wont that come like putting a 20amp fuse and another 60amp fuse b4 it?
i don;t think that will solve the problem, because the the original ring terminal remains the same,and the washer will just become an extension of the alternator's contact
also,the more anything you put between there, you increase resistance right? |
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theblitz Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Tech posts: 680 Location: South Trinidad My 2NRide: Toyota Corolla
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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in the design of the alternators is it even possible that the studs are of adequate conductivity for its size and not be a restriction causing melt down?
And more over... for a stock alt he eh hadda worry bout nutting  |
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Dj_Bee Sweet on this forum
Joined: 08 May 2008 Tech posts: 325 Location: Causin DAMAGE My 2NRide:
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires |
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Dj_Bee wrote: | Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires |
get a digital multimeter, set it to DC Voltage, place the positive lead on your alternator output terminal and place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal..
the meter will now read the voltage drop across the alternator output wire..
turn on as much electrical load in your vehicle as possible (e.g. high beams, AC, crank up the music etc) and note the voltage drop you see.. anything over 0.3 - 0.5V of drop means you gotta upgrade the wire.. if it reads very close to zero, your wires are of adequate size.. |
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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| southside connections wrote: | i don;t think that will solve the problem, because the the original ring terminal remains the same,and the washer will just become an extension of the alternator's contact
also,the more anything you put between there, you increase resistance right? |
the wire terminal will be touching both the alternator output stud and the nut to hold it down.. increase the contact area between either two and the ring terminal and the overall resistance will drop..
longer wire = more resistance
thicker wire = less resistance
in this case we are trying to make the wire 'thicker' in a sense..
-----------------------------------------------------
and by the way, this should only be of concern when using those ultra high output alternators.. you wouldn't have any issues with most factory alternators.. |
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Dj_Bee Sweet on this forum
Joined: 08 May 2008 Tech posts: 325 Location: Causin DAMAGE My 2NRide:
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Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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| 3stagevtec wrote: | | Dj_Bee wrote: | Is this upgrade necessary with a diesel vehicle( Frontier)
because i see that they already come sith sum thick wires |
get a digital multimeter, set it to DC Voltage, place the positive lead on your alternator output terminal and place the negative lead on the positive battery terminal..
the meter will now read the voltage drop across the alternator output wire..
turn on as much electrical load in your vehicle as possible (e.g. high beams, AC, crank up the music etc) and note the voltage drop you see.. anything over 0.3 - 0.5V of drop means you gotta upgrade the wire.. if it reads very close to zero, your wires are of adequate size.. |
kool, ill check it when the rain eases up |
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me_ngod4eva Ricer
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 29
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Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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I'm about to do this myself next weekend. I just have one question for those who've already done so:
Where exactly is the Engine block ground located on the QG15DE. I've looked at a few instructional videos and in some cases the connection was run to location that already had a stock ground connection.
If there isn't one on the QG, where would you guys recommend as a safe place to secure it. |
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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| me_ngod4eva wrote: | I'm about to do this myself next weekend. I just have one question for those who've already done so:
Where exactly is the Engine block ground located on the QG15DE. I've looked at a few instructional videos and in some cases the connection was run to location that already had a stock ground connection.
If there isn't one on the QG, where would you guys recommend as a safe place to secure it. |
there MUST be an engine block to chassis ground connection.. run the thicker wires in the stock location, if you can't find it, use the safest point on your engine to connect to your chassis..
make sure you run your wires away from sources of high heat / fans / belts / pulleys etc.. leave a little slack on the wire as well to allow for engine movement.. |
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silent_riot TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 26 Dec 2004 Tech posts: 1435 Location: Digitized My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:22 am Post subject: |
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| In those engines, the grounding spot is on the transmission casing, just under the battery tray. |
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me_ngod4eva Ricer
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 29
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:23 am Post subject: |
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Thanks 3stagevtec and silent_riot . I'll look for the connection later and do the upgrade over the weekend.
After that i'll look at changing my alternator. I hear the Tiida has 140A ? That should be enough for my system cause I don't think my current 80A Alt can keep up. |
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(...Rovin...) 3NE 2NR Power Seller
Joined: 21 Jan 2006 Tech posts: 3971 Location: Chaguanas My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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me_ngod4eva, hey so ur back in town & u putting back in d music ...  |
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me_ngod4eva Ricer
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 29
My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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| (...Rovin...) wrote: | me_ngod4eva, hey so ur back in town & u putting back in d music ...  |
Hey (...Rovin...), Yeah man I'm back in town for a while, so the Project continues...Headlights Dimming when I crank up the bass so I'm trying to rectify that fast.
Oh and the Box survive the Flood boy.(phew)... Baptized the Comps in a bucket of water, washed them off and they playing like nothing happen
I'll check you when i'm done so you can hear it. |
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TintMan 3NE 2NR for life
Joined: 16 Jul 2005 Tech posts: 143 Location: In a Tint Shop My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Has anyone really notice a difference with the big 3 upgrade ??? |
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theblitz Chronic TriniTuner
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Tech posts: 680 Location: South Trinidad My 2NRide: Toyota Corolla
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Yes |
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(...Rovin...) 3NE 2NR Power Seller
Joined: 21 Jan 2006 Tech posts: 3971 Location: Chaguanas My 2NRide:
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Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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yes saw a instant difference - used to normally be 13.8-9 & when i did it it went up to 14.2 ...
me_ngod4eva,
cool man - i want to make a even better box so that when d lows hit u cant breathe ....  |
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me_ngod4eva Ricer
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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| (...Rovin...) wrote: |
me_ngod4eva,
cool man - i want to make a even better box so that when d lows hit u cant breathe ....  |
SWEET
It already have people jumping out the car when it hits...Last week my pardna tell me it clear his Sinuses...lol |
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(...Rovin...) 3NE 2NR Power Seller
Joined: 21 Jan 2006 Tech posts: 3971 Location: Chaguanas My 2NRide:
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Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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1st time i hear that 1 .....  |
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kurpal_v2 TriniTuner WHOoRE
Joined: 28 Dec 2007 Tech posts: 1365 Location: angle mounting fets My 2NRide:
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Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| TintMan wrote: | | Has anyone really notice a difference with the big 3 upgrade ??? |
actually no I didnt.. |
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carfreak1024 Trinituner Peong
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Tech posts: 437 Location: Trinidad, Maracas My 2NRide:
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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:30 am Post subject: |
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^^^ i saw a difference when i did the big 3, the stock wires in the honda accord were 8 gauge and i upgraded them 2 4 gauge, except the battery to chassis which i did in zero gauge.
i noticed a difference with dimming lights when playing music. also i not sure if this is to attribute to the big 3 but bass is also slightly deeper, and amps run a little less hot, in terms of voltage i really cannot say as yet, but will check later.
also what i wanna do next is change the battery to chassis ground to the shock tower apparently this is a better place than stock. |
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me_ngod4eva Ricer
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Tech posts: 29
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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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| silent_riot wrote: | | In those engines, the grounding spot is on the transmission casing, just under the battery tray. |
Is this the Connection you're talking about? It's just under the Battery tray as u described but the Battery Negative runs to it.
Can I also use this point for the Engine Block to Chassis Connection?
Or is this location better to use?
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3stagevtec punchin NOS
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Tech posts: 4799 Location: killing two stones with one bird... My 2NRide: Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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^ either will do.. actually, any free bolt on your engine block will work..
but pick the safest of the two locations! connect your engine to a cleaned point on your chassis, and connect that same point to the negative terminal on your battery.. that is the best possible connection setup for grounding..
another thing, don't remove your factory wires.. if in case the new wires you run have a fault, you can fall back on the factory wiring.. |
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