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haydn28
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:17 am
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Rematch A172?

Mr. Green
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A172
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:39 am
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rematch for wha?

I fed up pwn yuh since dem days Neutral
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xtech
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:27 am
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automatic Starlet 120KM/hr in 2nd gear shifting like a manual
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AllTrac
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:26 am
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haydn28 wrote:




Rematch A172?

Mr. Green


Shocked Shocked i never heqar bout this one Shocked

*drains gas from m2 and puts up jack stands*
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reddo_tuner
Riding on 17's


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:28 am
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xtech wrote:


automatic Starlet 120KM/hr in 2nd gear shifting like a manual


xtech, thais you?
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:33 am
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xtech wrote:


automatic Starlet 120KM/hr in 2nd gear shifting like a manual



why was the shifter yanked from "N" to "2", please tell me that's not a "launch"
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xtech
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:38 am
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yes it was a launch but i dont do that fraid i might blow something up..... Mr. Green

no it is not me i dont own a starlet. but i do drive like that with the Laser.......

have to teach reddo how to do it
Laughing Laughing
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Advil
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:27 pm
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xtech wrote:
yes it was a launch but i dont do that fraid i might blow something up..... Mr. Green

no it is not me i dont own a starlet. but i do drive like that with the Laser.......

have to teach reddo how to do it
Laughing Laughing


and break yuh tranny one time
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josh.dookie
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:57 am
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Big up toyota power, the lil engine that could!! or the lil engine that really could put out!
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reddo_tuner
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:38 pm
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sm
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:21 pm
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reddo_tuner wrote:


wayyysssss i now seeing the potential
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:16 am
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^^^ nice it looks like it was set up for circuit type racing..

still using a ct type turbo @1.4 bar and doing 13s is good
300 fly wheel HP = aprox 250whp ftw

its still using stock rods i think ..cause they made no mention of any rods..

5efte ftw

Smile
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-LiNkS-
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:26 pm
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This is my GT 16psi of trust boost...no nitros vs and 4g63 modded RVR....an won the 1/4 mile run

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/N9VrvBFVQpY&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param></object>
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xtech
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:51 pm
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-LiNkS- wrote:
This is my GT 16psi of trust boost...no nitros vs and 4g63 modded RVR....an won the 1/4 mile run


aye aye.......the man say he RVR had a broken TPS, running low boost, an plus it had a boost leak
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-LiNkS-
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:14 pm
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Quote:
aye aye.......the man say he RVR had a broken TPS, running low boost, an plus it had a boost leak


he never told me that when ask for the race.......here was my issues.....
-no LSD box on my car while he had 4WD Evil or Very Mad
-i had worn out tires...no grip wat so ever dats y the slow start
-worn out clutch
-pump gas....forgot to put a "dog in the tank" (octane booster) Twisted Evil
- and 1.3 of cut ass
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-LiNkS-
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:19 pm
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same as here when i got spanked..... Embarassed
-1st, 2nd, 3rd....only moved 6 feet of the block

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ryglqUIkE2s&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param></object>

But the next week i got him at a rolling start...and it wasnt 16psi Twisted Evil Wink
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reddo_tuner
Riding on 17's


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My 2NRide: Toyota Starlet Powered Tercel - Starcel

PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:15 pm
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xtech
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:46 pm
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1994 Starlet VS ?? Import Battles........What the hell we was doing in 1994 no bamboo no care

Real kicks Very Happy Laughing Laughing
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shinakuma
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:01 pm
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Wat qtr mile times do u make wit ur Starlet Link ?
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honda hoe
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:05 pm
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shinakuma,

tune meh car nah Neutral
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-LiNkS-
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:43 am
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shinakuma wrote:
Wat qtr mile times do u make wit ur Starlet Link ?


the car was tuned to do 13's....but never got to do a time qtr mile run cause i have no lsd gearbox..... but from the cars i have run i can estimate it less than 14s...


here are some more vids of my friends cars....

value="always"></param>

4 speed boxed GT
value="always"></param>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-wJJI-fKck&NR=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2byewctclU&feature=related
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shinakuma
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:20 pm
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U can run on d qtrmile without an lsd gbox why does dat prevent u from running ?? How much whp u have? U run impressive against d soarer
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:48 pm
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shinakuma wrote:
U can run on d qtrmile without an lsd gbox why does dat prevent u from running ??


wat bout with auto gearbox eh? Confused
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reddo_tuner
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:44 pm
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xtech, Laughing Laughing Laughing good question
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reddo_tuner
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:20 pm
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Taken from toyotagtturbo.com

Quote:
You need to relocate the filter to the front where there is ample cold air, if you have a filter (open filter) in the engine bay then it will get very bad heat soak. The stock inlet track also goes right over the manifold and is very restrictive so you need to junk this to get any good results. Otherwise use the stock air box with panel filter that already has a cold air feed.

The inlet track on stock cars is fine, Toyota didn't need to make it any better but when pushing the boundaries on a hybrid you need to junk it. We also sell relocation kits.

Have a read of this list, no manufactures mentioned to be as impartial as possible:

Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match:


• Hybrid CT9

• Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold

• Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap

• Decat

• Cat Back system 2.5inch

The car is now expelling gases more efficiently.


• Relocated Air Filter to front bumper

• Reduce Intake length

• Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track

Car is now breathing more efficiently


• Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers

• Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material)

• Uprated Thermostat

• Rad Cap

• Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days

• Consider Oil Cooler WITH thermostat if planning on track days

Car is now cooling more efficiently


• New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades 7,Cool

• New HT leads

• Inspect Dizzy/Cap/Rotor

Ignition system now works


• Uprated Fuel Pump

• Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit

• Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends on needs)

• Rolling Road Session

Car now fuelling adequately


• Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss

• Quickshift Kit

• LSD if poss

Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker


This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min:

• Uprated Front Disks

• Uprated Pads

• New OEM Rear Pads

• Braided Brake Lines

• Cusco BMCS

• Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill)

You can now stop!


• Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs

• Front and Rear Strut Braces

• Panhard Rod

• Lower Arm Bar

• Anitlift kit

• Front and Rear ARB's Uprated

• Check and replace worn bushes

• Good tires

• Full Geometry setup on 4 wheel alignment system (Camber, Toe, Castor, Corner Weights etc)

Power to ground greatly improved.


That’s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. You don't need to go for everything all at once but it's a good long term plan, take each step at a time.

This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch.
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haydn28
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My 2NRide: GAZA corolla wgn 1.5

PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:15 am
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reddo_tuner wrote:
Taken from toyotagtturbo.com

Quote:
You need to relocate the filter to the front where there is ample cold air, if you have a filter (open filter) in the engine bay then it will get very bad heat soak. The stock inlet track also goes right over the manifold and is very restrictive so you need to junk this to get any good results. Otherwise use the stock air box with panel filter that already has a cold air feed.

The inlet track on stock cars is fine, Toyota didn't need to make it any better but when pushing the boundaries on a hybrid you need to junk it. We also sell relocation kits.

Have a read of this list, no manufactures mentioned to be as impartial as possible:

Here you go, this is a basic overview on how to get a well balanced 200hp setup with brakes and chassis to match:


• Hybrid CT9

• Free Flow Mild Steel Manifold

• Wrap Manifold/Decat in Heat Wrap

• Decat

• Cat Back system 2.5inch

The car is now expelling gases more efficiently.


• Relocated Air Filter to front bumper

• Reduce Intake length

• Heat Reflective tape for Inlet Track

Car is now breathing more efficiently


• Raise the Rear of the Bonnet with washers

• Front Mounted Intercooler (wrap throttle body side pipes with heat reflective material)

• Uprated Thermostat

• Rad Cap

• Consider better radiator and breather/header tank if planning on track days

• Consider Oil Cooler WITH thermostat if planning on track days

Car is now cooling more efficiently


• New Spark Plugs (consider colder grades 7,Cool

• New HT leads

• Inspect Dizzy/Cap/Rotor

Ignition system now works


• Uprated Fuel Pump

• Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit

• Engine Management/Piggy Back/Fuel Controller (depends on needs)

• Rolling Road Session

Car now fuelling adequately


• Uprated clutch with flywheel is poss

• Quickshift Kit

• LSD if poss

Car can now handle power and you can shift quicker


This should net you around 180bhp - 200bhp on 18 psi max. This then leaves the brakes and chassis which will need to be sorted to cope with the power. I would recommend at a min:

• Uprated Front Disks

• Uprated Pads

• New OEM Rear Pads

• Braided Brake Lines

• Cusco BMCS

• Dot 5.1 Toyota Fluid (bleed dry and refill)

You can now stop!


• Coilovers / Fixed height shocks with springs

• Front and Rear Strut Braces

• Panhard Rod

• Lower Arm Bar

• Anitlift kit

• Front and Rear ARB's Uprated

• Check and replace worn bushes

• Good tires

• Full Geometry setup on 4 wheel alignment system (Camber, Toe, Castor, Corner Weights etc)

Power to ground greatly improved.


That’s a basic list of what we recommend, obviously there are many more parts that will net you a good handling car that can stop with power to match but that should give you a good idea on where to take her pending needs. You don't need to go for everything all at once but it's a good long term plan, take each step at a time.

This doesn't take into account basic servicing which is a must, make the most out of what you have no point adding mods until the car is up to scratch.


once setta nonsense dem GT fellas talkin Laughing

look how much things u have to do to run a 14s 1/4 mile ,

the stock starlet could handle 250-300whp without any suspension or brake upgrades..

these fellas think they need these things cause the sad reality of it is that they simply CAN"T drive or tune a GT Cool
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xtech
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:11 am
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300whp Jamaica style

Project not finished for updates visit
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52987

Background
The GT Turbo is a dying breed in Jamaica. Unlike Europe where there is a constant flow of Starlets here there is a three year import restriction. This means the last legal EP82 to enter our shores was in 1999 and the last EP91 would be 2003. Back in the mid-2000s Starlet tuning hit its peak in terms of power output, tuning development and popularity. Right now its a known quantity allowing for anyone with a budget to buy and make a high horsepower Starlet. Over the past year or two there has been a resurgence in demand for the GT Turbo due to its low cost and high levels of performance potential. With basic modifications the average Starlet can generate 200whp. Hardcore owners have been able to exploit the 5E combination to make impressive horsepower numbers and quarter-mile times.

The Starlet community is a small one in Jamaica. As I've said on my own personal site, hardcore.ep91.com, it became a very factionalized situation with tuners hiding information from each other on grounds of ego and profit. However, in more recent times as their popularity has dropped, the information flow has been more relaxed. Most Starlets have fallen into the hands of performance faithfuls and this is where my story sort of began. I've been associated with this car from its previous owners.

On this site EPs are new entity, in Jamaica, Starlet tuning has evolved without a lot of the niceties you UK guys enjoy. Back then there were no off the shelf pistons and rods. Power had to be made with what was available. To give you one example, the common turbocharger was the Garrett as these were cheap from any junkyard, but as the Impreza moved stateside and secondhand Mitsubishi turbochargers off eBay are now more common.


Click for full-size.

The car
The car was initially owned by my friend Colin Morris, who brought in the car from Japan. It was converted to a high compression 5E-FHTE when his original engine died. It went on to win our local 14-second drag class. As the owner upgraded to an Evolution the car was sold to another friend, who eventually began to scrap it for a Motorsports project. It was eventually rescued by the current owner sans engine, gearbox, and in pieces. Left with no choice, it had to be rebuilt, at which point I was drafted into the project.

The goal is simple, 300whp, a feat easily achievable on the stock engine internals. Recently there have been questions about the ability of the stock motor to achieve such figures on this site. The truth of the matter is that 300whp from a stock 5E in Jamaica is so simple most people don't bother to even document it. As I did over on my home site wheelsjamaica with the AE111 Levin/Trueno I will document the build up to make it a definitive 5E thread. I'll try to answer all the relevant questions I can while providing insight into Jamaican tuning.

The 5E
I was initially one of the first people in Jamaica to go 5E. This was about '99-'00. I went to the 5E when I lost my EP91 4E-FTE. Since I couldn't find a Glanza engine I opted for a 5E bottom half. My experience with the 5E was not initially a great one, as I went through several motors learning how it worked because there was not a lot of knowledge outside of Japan. However I recognized the potential something I passed on to Noel Rhone, our local Starlet Guru. All I have on the 5E is again on hardcore.ep91.com, but I'll give you a quick rundown.

There are two 5Es, a FE, and a later FHE, and even within those are several variants, ranging from ACIS equipped models, to coil-pack engine. The 5E is a combination of the older 3E and the 4E. 5E-FEs have the thinner connecting rods. The deck height is taller than the 4E to give the 5E its extra displacement, and the ACIS heads have slightly more aggressive camshafts. Much like i discovered the 5E has a bad reputation here in Jamaica. Its known to be an unreliable engine that easily destroys con-rod bearings and pistons. Over my experience I've come to understand the engine and just like anything new or different you have to know what you're doing. Its not just a matter of throwing stuff together. The bottom-line though is that if you want to make more than 300whp the increase in displacement can support it. There is more than enough evidence that if pushed a properly built 5E can make 400whp+. I might even dare say the 500 range.

From my experience there are three reasons why you'd use the 5E;
1)You want over 300whp
2)You already have a 5E
3)You have no engine and that's what is available to you.

My first 300whp was my friend Juice. He was actually the one that connected me to this site. Juice damaged his 4E and was convinced to go 5E. His car runs stock internals using 4E-FTE pistons and two headgaskets. It uses a rather small IHI/Garrett combination. Using an eManage Blue it was programmed to 298whp before my eyes by my tuner and friend David Diedrick. His engine has since been rebuilt allowing me to confirm its contents hadn't changed since then. He had posted his 'controversial figures' and eManage file on the old GTTurbo site a while back.

The Story so far
The car has actually been running for a while now, until last week. The owner was anxious to get it on the road, but since he got it in parts and sans drivetrain he bought an already prepped 5E engine and gearbox. Unlike me, he opted not to pull the engine down before installation. The turbo of choice was the td04L off a WRX, but I told him not to bother using that on the 5E because it would be too small. The 5E has very high cylinder pressures due to its FE head and therefore lots of exhaust energy, more so than most 1500cc engines. A friend, as fate would have it, crashed his STi and we scrapped the td05-16g off that car. The next step was the manifold. Rather than use the standard 5E N/A manifold the owner decided to have a proper tubular manifold built using the runners from the 4AGE20v. It was cheap , and while I worried about the size of the runners, on the road it turned out to be fine with the car hitting boost as low as 3000rpm.

Then bad luck. While he sorted out the management the headgasket failed flooding cylinder four. Unable to compress the coolant the car bent a connecting rod, but made it home fine. This turned out to be good news as the engine when pulled apart revealed several issues. The engine was used, and had been sitting down for at least a 6 months or so, meaning it needed to be refreshed and this is where the whole thing starts. I'll be documenting the 5E build up and its eventual 300whp.

Stage One: Clean up


On the right is a 5EFE rod originally in the engine. It was damaged by hydro-lock. To the left are the new stock 5EFHE rod to be used.

Stock 5E pistons. Not to be used. The normal route is to shave these down for a custom CR...

...but we will be using these, stock 4EFTE pistons.

The 4EFTE oil pan and pick up.

Factory head, throttle body, cams, and larger injectors 460cc.

TD05 Turbocharger from a WRX STi

...after some discussion the owner decided to have a tubular manifold made up. Its made from the OEM 4AGE20v headers,
so we know it will last with the proper bracing.

All that power meant the stock mounts had to be converted to Teflon inserts done locally.
A rough ride but necessary with these power figures.

The management system of choice, in Australia.


From the compressor map you can see that the tdo5-16g peak efficiency (77%) is in the 6psi to 18psi range. This would be the optimum range. However you can run as high as 28psi and still have decent enough efficiency, only a 5% drop off, in performance. On the road the car was able to achieve 7psi by 3000rpm without a proper tune, so I suspect depending on tune we should be able to run between 15psi and 20psi to achieve the goal.
Boost doesn't destroy internals, detonation is a bigger engine killer than anything. You can run as much boost as you like, as long you accept the fact that if you detonate, the motor will go bang in an instant. One of the questions I get often from GT Turbo is "how much boost can I run?" This has long led me to believe that most on this site don't understand how a turbocharger works. The comment that a td05-16g can't produce 300whp, further confirms the level of understanding of many members. These are the same people who cant believe a CT9 can't make X amount of power.

Boost is an irrelevant concept many times in these discussions. All turbochargers make boost. What makes a CT9 at 10psi make less power than a td05-16g at 10psi isn't boost, its CFM. The CFM rating is the airflow rating of a turbocharger. You need to know this when getting a turbocharger. That CFM determines how much air the turbo can move at maximum, which in turn can tell you how much power it can make. CFM = airflow = air available to make power. Most companies list the max CFM of their turbocharger. So for people to determine that X turbo cant make X power without even looking/understanding the specifications of a turbocharger or basing it off boost pressure is just silly.

Now, I'm not going to claim brilliance because the reason I know how this works is because
a)I discussed this with a turbo expert years ago in relation to the CT9
b)he recommended the Maximum Boost book to me which explains it all, mathematically.
When you have a turbocharger there are two options for power production 1)Increase boost on stock turbocharger till you reach or near the edge of the compressor efficiency
2)Get a higher flowing turbocharger. Simple and basic, but you've got to understand how the the numbers on a turbocharger work.

As far as I know, no one here has ever seen a CT9 compressor map, so I often ask on what basis do people believe that the CT9 is blowing hot air at 15psi. The truth is the same reason we're having this discussion, a friend told you, or you heard it somewhere. So this now comes down to who you believe. The UK tuner who cant get past 133whp because he keeps telling you the CT9 is useless at 15psi, or the JDM tuner who hits 172whp at the same psi because he has measured the outlet temps and figured out that 15psi is smack dab in the middle of the efficiency range of that turbocharger. And if you've ever looked at a compressor map you can easily see how wide the peak efficiency island is for a turbocharger.

Fortunately, we do have specs on the MHI td05-16g. The small td05-16g is rated at 520cfm, using MHI 1bar/60% efficiency rating. The larger td05-16g is rated at 580cfm. According to the manufacturer specifications that's enough airflow for 350bhp. If you count in the 10% loss for wheel hp, that's still over 300whp. This is also not an absolute, but a rough figure not taking into consideration the Volumetric Efficiency of the host engine. The better or worse the VE of the engine is will determine what side of that figure you end up on. The td04L is rated at 250hp for its flow rating. However, like i said, I've seen cars on the low side of that, and others on the high side. There was a beautiful example of the latter in GT a few years back where they churned out 278whp. I just read that Magazine article where Dave tuned a EP91 to similar figures.

I do not use boost to make power, so to speak. What I do is try and get the turbocharger into its maximum efficiency island and tune from there. Why? Because that peak island is where the turbocharger is making the least hot air, that would possibly reduce power. On page 2 I put up the compressor map for the turbocharger being used and gave the specifications in relation to the tune there. The common UK trend is simply to just keep turning up the boost which will most likely move the turbo into the more inefficient areas of its flow, ie: more heat from the compression function.

My only concern with this build is the management the owner is using. Due to costs he's opted for the Microtech, a system, poorly supported, and that hasn't proved itself well here in Jamaica, or from other comments elsewhere in the Caribbean. I don't believe the Microtech can handle what we are going to throw at it. However, due to its reputation, no-one is going to buy it from us and the owner has opted to struggle with it rather than purchase an eManage Ultimate.

Let me also comment on the "how much boost can I run?"

You can run as much boost as you want until a) the turbocharger goes supersonic b) until you reach the mechnical limits of the turbocharger or the engine.

Point B is very important because its not generally boost that will kill your engine, its detonation. You can run as much boost as you want for as long as you want as long as the engine doesn't detonate. The second it pings, its the shockwave from that process that will break the piston or cause bearings to fail. That's not a function directly of the boost. Its how good the tune has been to maintain the optimum a/f ratio given the circumstances. What forged internals do, in most cases, is mask poor tuning. Your car is still probably detonating, but because the stuff is stronger it just shrugs off the shocks, to a point.

The other thing is, you don't have to believe me, which is the point of this post. I am not screaming superiority, just trying to inform.

Click for full-size.

Engine now complete with all factory parts.

Click for full-size.

Click for full-size.

The larger SR20DET has been adapted to fit the STANDARD 4E-FTE intake manifold.
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eliteauto
punchin NOS


Joined: 10 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:51 am
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nice link
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sadique
3NE 2NR for life


Joined: 21 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:49 am
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very nice!!
ah feelin to buy ah starlet Twisted Evil
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A172
TriniTuner 24-7


Joined: 11 Aug 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:15 pm
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hardcoreep wrote:
One of the questions I get often from GT Turbo is "how much boost can I run?" This has long led me to believe that most on this site don't understand how a turbocharger works. The comment that a td05-16g can't produce 300whp, further confirms the level of understanding of many members. These are the same people who cant believe a CT9 can't make X amount of power.


LMAO #owned

ent

setta facking google tuners across dey

worse yet is when de NZ boys come and post up dey dyno sheets and make dem emo Laughing Laughing Laughing


hardcoreep wrote:
Boost doesn't destroy internals, detonation is a bigger engine killer than anything. You can run as much boost as you like, as long you accept the fact that if you detonate, the motor will go bang in an instant.


tried explaining that SAME exact ting to a dude who claims he wanna turbocharge his high comp. engine but 'fraid to do so for fear of 'mashing up sumn' bla bla

oh well Neutral
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