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my car care tips and info
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:27 pm
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Question

Last edited by Anil_Sooknanan on Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:59 pm
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Question

Last edited by Anil_Sooknanan on Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:47 am
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Anil Sooknanan wrote:
SAE on it which stands for ( Standard of Automotive Engineering )


You mean Society of Automotive Engineers.
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:27 pm
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ok my bad
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:54 pm
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so how come no one adding?
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SmokeyGTi
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:55 pm
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ay anil, pm me ur ph# i lost it!
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:46 pm
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every electronic fuel injected engine have a idle screw and it not the screw on the trottle or tps it's normally located close to the ACC valve black in colour (Nissan) , it's correct name is a air bypass screw . due to the fact that when the trottle is close no air can pass the butterfly so the air is channel around the butterfly and is adjusted by the screw for proper idle . so when you actually turn the screw on the trottle your messing up everything from the ecu readings to timing
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cheese pie
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:05 pm
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ok , now read through this thread, my lil tip

please check your battery water and add distilled water as requred
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cobo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:38 pm
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Yo Anil If your rotors are a bit uneven would you reccomend that they be machined or should they be replaced by new ones. I recently machined my rotors and I hear a constant squeaking noise on both sides of the car as if the the brake pads are rubbing against the rotor. Also I hear a clicking noise on the left hand side. Could this all be as a result of machining the rotors? Also my mechanic says that it may be that the brake pads are too durable and are cutting the rotors... dis sounding like rubbish to me, what you think?
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cheese pie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:14 pm
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rotors have a minimum thickness after being machined before they have to be replaced. its usually stamped on the side or can be found in the factory service manual for your car. Using a caliper measure the thickness and see if it falls withing specs, if not replace.
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cobo
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:54 pm
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will do, Thanks man.
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Knight1
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:27 am
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Quote:
Also my mechanic says that it may be that the brake pads are too durable and are cutting the rotors


Some pads can cut rotors if:

1) They are too harsh (depending on if alot of ceramic base is used in the compound - you can tell by the pad having a lighter than black colour...maybe like a grey or brow...but I doubt that's your issue)

2) The pads, when new, were not burnished/broken in properly.
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cobo
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 4:56 pm
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It was new OHK pads
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:49 pm
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OHK use to work good but now it works like crap use wagna pads
if you look at it the money you paying to get it cut and might not work properly you could just buy a new rotor
the thing is that if your rotor is thinner it's easier to warp
another thing to check is if the brakes are binding if so that could cause your problem
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:29 pm
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alternators are pretty simple . all you need is a mutlimeter (cost about $150 for one that does every thing in a car) and a 12v test light ($ 20) firstly, test the voltage of the battery using the 20v DC scale it should read between 12.7 to 14.3 any thing below and above is bad
to know if your alternator is powering up just take a knife or small screwdriver and touch the centre of the pully you should feel a magnetic field any thing heavy you won't feel it . next take the test light place he clamp and place it on the -ve side of your battey and take the probe and touch the battery output the the terminal of the alternator do the same for the "S" terminal the bulb should light if not check for blown fuses
theres more to it but it's a bit technical and long Embarassed
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nizmoB12
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:26 pm
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Is the battery output the fat single wire leaving the alternator? What is the "S" terminal?
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:32 pm
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yes the battery terminal is the biggest wire if you look through the pages here you would see more about alternators and there ID's but anyway the S is the sense
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:56 pm
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i've seen a lot of electrians using single single wire (wire used for wiring house) on cars which is wrong these wires are rated for low current but high voltage . a 1.5 mm is rated only for 18A a 2.5 is rated for 25A and if whatever is connected to it is pulling more current than the wire can handle your driving a candle Laughing
always remember cars work on high current low voltage . this may have you thinking but ent d house wire thicker than the small scronny thin wire the car came with no my friend. theories have shown current flows on what is called skin effect thats why they can carry more current
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firehead..
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:50 pm
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where u located anil?....i wanna service the vvl real bad....i took a peep inside the tappet pan cover and saw a whole lotta gunk in there....im guessing it was there before we swapped engines on the car....we only use royal purple or mobil one 10w-30 in it....it needs a full service jed...we never serviced it yet since we swapped the engine...jus did the usual...changed oil at regular invervals, cahngeed the filter,etc...well the plugs, i usine the irradium 6 rite now...
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Anil_Sooknanan
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:02 pm
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i live in Chickland Village , Freeport if your intrested you could give me a call
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