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Grounding Your Car
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dmitc
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Joined: 19 Dec 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:06 am
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Hook wrote:

BTW....u ever found out what that blue/red bracket on the brake master cylinder was for?


as far as i could see it's incase the nuts for the brake booster was to come loose this braket prevents the whole setup from moving.
other than that me nah know
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red bwoy
I LUV THIS PLACE


Joined: 02 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:02 pm
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i think hook said it earlier but i did the groundin on my bj an ran a 4.0 guage wire from de alternator hot to the battery an a similiar set up to wahts in the picture noticible difference in response not big but noticable take ah


#bump #bump for ah bess post dey jackal
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V2NR 3.0
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Joined: 06 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:39 pm
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jnqaz wrote:
wat the point of all that grounding?
if u dont mind me asking..
cuz THATS ALOT OF GROUNDING!
neva heard of people doin it to that extent unless they into the music and stuff


It drastically improves electricals dude.
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demboyzaudio
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Joined: 19 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 2:23 pm
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I wanna try this soon..
Was looking for this post a while now...
Same b14 Very Happy
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7143
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Joined: 04 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:09 pm
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jackal,wel done man....good read....
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V2NR 3.0
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:43 pm
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I use this system to ground my car. excellent
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7143
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:16 pm
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wat was d overall cost to do this??
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Hook
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Joined: 18 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:58 am
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I did mine from the diagram, so including the extra connection to the alternator body, that's 8, 0AWG loop connectors (these actually hold up to 3 sets of 4AWG wires on one connector) and about 4yds of 4AWG wire...tie straps (to keep everything away from hot engine surfaces), solder and 100W soldering iron was mine and a roll of electrical tape (yeh I taped mine to cover all that red..not a fan of excessive loom)...cost came up to around $100 when I did it last year...methinx wire prices have gone up since then tho, but it still shouldn't be too expensive

measure up and make the grounding harness off the car so u can take ur time and do it properly, then install then engine is dead cold (for safety sake) and clean all connection points properly before installing

also, take ur time soldering that heavy wire (it would help to tin the wires and connectors first, then just assemble the joints and apply heat for everything to meld together) and ensure the soldered points are good and strong
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X_Factor
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Joined: 27 Apr 2003
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My 2NRide: NISSAN SENTRA b14

PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:28 am
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^^ in addition to hooks scene...get a good brand wire, Stinger, tsunami, rockford, american bass, exf, jl. PG, DB etc...
dont waste ur $$ buyin cheap cables with more insulation than copper..observe this when going to purchase the wire...look at the size of the core

solder and crimp the wire, trying to keep the end as a circle over the wire..but dont beat it with a hammer and get the terminal all out of shape and flat--it just looks untidy..

after that, there is something called heat shrink tubing...getting that and putting over the area you joined looks even more professional, covering where the wire enters the terminal and about 1-2 inch on the wire itself
u'll need a heat gun to shrink the tubing..but i placed it over the stove and that worked just as well

all the points in ur vehicle that u decide to ground, make sure and sand them properly and apply some electrical grease after to prevent rusting

measure ur wires properly so that it wont have alot of excess making it look bulky and untidy, you can also put loom if u wish

i dont know if it makes any difference, but i used 0g wire from the battery to chassis--usually that piece of wire is about 8" long for the most..and then 4g for the rest
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Devon.Lopez
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:17 pm
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great diagram Twisted Evil
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thelem
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 9:36 pm
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nice man nicee
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pups
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:32 pm
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great post...im goin to do this weekend in the b14....do i need a distributor block like how jackal has it or can i jus ground off to the chassis
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Hook
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:55 am
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either way is fine....I made a grounding harness like the diagram so there's only one connection and everything grounds to everything else so it's all the same potential anyway
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TrinbagoMan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:27 pm
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I going to do this next week.

Items to buy from what i have gathered on this thread:

5 yards of good quality 4 guage cable.
12 lugs
1 audiopipe grounding box.
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Parvin
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:41 pm
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Are the distribution blocks really needed or could it be done on the regular grounds ?
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:43 pm
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^^can be done on the regular grounds
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Hook
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:47 pm
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Yup, just ensure all grounding points are sanded clean and the wires securely fastened so that good electrical connections are made.
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VexXx Dogg
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Joined: 01 May 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:43 pm
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dmitc wrote:
Hook wrote:

BTW....u ever found out what that blue/red bracket on the brake master cylinder was for?


as far as i could see it's incase the nuts for the brake booster was to come loose this braket prevents the whole setup from moving.
other than that me nah know


in case anyone was still wondering, taht is a master cylinder brace.
It bolts onto a part of the chassis with a thicker gauge metal than the firewall, such as the shock housing. Under extreme braking conditions, you get a consistent pedal feel.

I got a cusco unit installed on my car, made a huge difference for a minimal cost. It is an absolute must for persons with upgraded brakes Wink
< 100USD.
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Parvin
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Joined: 20 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:20 pm
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dmitc wrote:
tinytim wrote:
Here's a useful diagram I found that outlines major grounding points.

Click for full-size.




I'm trying this out using this diagram. Ck4 lancer.

Could any1 tell me where to find points 1 & 2 please. Here are 2 pics that I took. I didn't want to interfere with anything before i break any seals or stuff like that.

Click for full-size.


Click for full-size.
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Morpheus
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:05 am
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Just look for where the stock/original grounding cables arte and replace them or add to them.

For the CK there is one from the intake manifold to the firewall. That should cover #2

#1 I think it more to the left of the cylinder head. Can't remember if is more to the back.

NOTE: I referring to 4G13SOHC and 4G15DOHC eh. I see u have a 4G92SOHC but the principle should be the same.

Basically u can ground from any point. That diagram is just a general guide. Make sure all surfaces are clean, bare metal and that all connections are secure. Also route and neaten cables properly. U should be ok.

Hope that helps
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Parvin
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:14 am
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Thanks man
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Morpheus
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:54 am
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^^No problem
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legendkiller@1891
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:19 am
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excellent info here!
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Hook
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:23 am
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hooray for spam!
*ahem*
I mean..great thread! excellent info! good work guys!
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Parvin
Street 2NR


Joined: 20 Sep 2006
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My 2NRide: Mitsubishi Lancer

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:15 pm
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Can anyone advise where I can get the heat shrink tubing to buy ?

i have asked all over and everyones looks at me like I am lost
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Morpheus
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Joined: 22 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:31 am
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Where u from? Check Shams Electronics in El Dorado. Have not seen it there myself but it's worth a try.
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Hook
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:11 am
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^^^ yup! I get all my heat shrink from there...kinda pricey, but I ain't seen it nowhere else so...
There are different sizes and colours stapled to a small board with one end shrunk so u know what size to expect after u heat it.
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Parvin
Street 2NR


Joined: 20 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:38 pm
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Morpheus & Hook

Thanks alot fellas. I got it and completed my stuff.

Thanks again.
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Morpheus
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:01 pm
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Good for u Parvin. Care to give a lil review? Idle better? Electricals/electronics working better,etc.


And I sure u know dis coming. 'Giwwe' a lil sample pic nah. Mr. Green
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X_Factor
punchin NOS


Joined: 27 Apr 2003
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Location: St. Augustine
My 2NRide: NISSAN SENTRA b14

PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:12 pm
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if anyone is gonna do this soon, can u do a before and after voltage test to see how much the increase was?

also the stock wire (+ve) from the alternator to battery can be change for even better results but i suggest using a 2g wire for that
i used two pieces of 4g though
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