Evo7 advice needed

[cincuanta]

Quick question for the Evo Men here..I'm getting an Evo 7 at a good deal,legit and everything,so what signs to pay attention for that would indicate potential probs drive train and otherwise?
Going to check the car and prob do a test drive. Unsure of why the guy is selling hence any advice is aprreciated.

[MISHI]

Your best bet is to go to mitsubishi lancer register's site and download the MLR buyer's guide

oh wait i could put it here for you

http://www.lancerregister.c...uyers%20Guide%20v1_00.pdf

(Body)

Check for any signs of an accident... when you're looking at the car open the engine bay and look for signs (wires spliced to headlight... clips in the paint showing another color, rust at welded point etc)

Make sure the car 'looks' right... no door looks out of place or seam... the bonnet and trunk all line up and latch good.

LOOK UNDER THE CAR!!!! Lots of people look at a car and say "oh it looks great" but plastic moulding and bumpers can hide a LOT of prior work. Look behind the back bumper and in the trunk spare tyre bay and make sure there is no deformation... look under the car for welding etc.

make sure the car drives straight. heavy pulling can indicate a previous issue. Evos have a camber bolt in front that ca adjust -1 or -2 camber however sometimes when serviced and the shocks removed they put one bolt in the wrong direction. this can affect your handling. Only by removing the front wheels can you see the bolt.

Watch the paintjob for a repair... you will know if there was repairs or filler incorporated to the car. if you see the car has USDM lights (indicators ON TOP) that can be a flag to ask questions about an accident. Make sure you have the components like jack and wheel spanners etc as many times you see a man call a price for a car and unwilling to drop yet they missing stuff...


(engine)

DO NOT SKIMP YOUR TIMING BELT/ BALANCER BELT!!!!!

This can make or break your ownership experience not to mention the bank account if it fails... Ask ask and ask again when the timing belt and balancer belt was last changed... also the water pump and seals (ALL seals)

if it has not been done, Get the money and have it done immediately. Trust me it's for your peace of mind... as well as once you changed all those things at once (Timing/ balance belt, Timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys, water pump, crankshaft seals, camshaft seals) you won't have to have it done anytime soon.

make sure the car has been off at least 10 mins if it were running and check the oil. Ask when last it was serviced... if the guy on cold start revs the engine hard to show off or let you know how it sounds, walk away...

look at the engine bay... if it's overly dirty with oily residue around, walk away. it could indicate trouble...

Don't be discouraged by a peeling rocker cover paint or a rusted heatshield cover... remember they take a lot of heat... Check the battery for the clamp and make sure wires aren't loose and about. Loose wires may indicate some work or mods/ damage were incurred. Check the radiator for any damage or bent passages... somtimes on removal for any work done it can tend to get damaged that way. Also it seems the water bottle seal on the VII's seems to leak slightly once under a little pressure... but that's minor. Check the power steering fluid and smell it. if it smells burned or brown in color it has to be replaced. Check vacuum lines for any cracking etc.


(Driveline)

Based on my limited experience, the boxes do tend to suffer from grating in high revsespecially in 5th gear. Nothing some gearbox synchros or a change of GOOD gearbox oil won't cure.

Now you may find that engaging reverse can be a bit difficult at times but from the few evos I'm been in it seems somewhat normal. (somewhat) I can't say if all are like this.... again it's limited experience...

If you find your gears are hard to engage at all in all gears, it could mean the clutch components or the fluid system (clutch master/ slave cylinder) is in need of change.

Often in evos you may hear a kocking type noise at idle when the car is in neutral and your foot is off the clutch pedal. Usually it's the release bearing but no harm really comes of it based on the few I've seen...

If your transfer is going to hell it'll make a siren sort of whine that increases with the speed of the car... not the engine revs (some people get caught with that) here's how it sounds



Rear diff may make the same noise as well. Sometime if you shift hard you may hear a loud bang on acceleration. This is somewhat normal and can be stiffened with aftermarket bushings...


Also (if car has ACD/ AYC) if you take the car around and take some corners etc and you suddenly think you have a donkey in your car sound wise it would mean that the ACD/ AYC pump has failed and / or the fluid has not been changed.

Ask the owner at what mileage did they change the SP3 clutch pack fluid in the rear diff and also when last they bled the AYC fluid in the pump (if at all)

usually some say the pump fluid isn't something that needs regular replacement, but should you get the noise and the clutch pack fluid was changed, then that is your next issue.


that's as much as I can tell you...

[cincuanta]

Comprehensive advice as usual from the big guns