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DIY Manual Boost Controller - under $100 TT
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RS200
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Joined: 24 Apr 2003
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My 2NRide: Toyota Altezza

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 3:43 pm
   Post subject: DIY Manual Boost Controller - under $100 TT
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Hey guys, well i got a tubo XS manual boost controller, well that was made so shitty that they used a brass bolt to controll boost, so of course the allen key ripped the brass bolt up nad then i had to sue an extractor to remove the brass screw, well thats a custom fine thread bolt, so i tried to re-tap the thing, the tap broke and i started thinking, man i could make a better one for cheaper...

2 mins on google later and i found this link:

http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

now i hate manual boost controllers, but i dont have the cash to buy a $2400+ TT on a Profec B right now, so till then i am willing to try something...

so i went to LP Marine and Peaks got all this for under $65 TT



1/4" NPT Tee (I'll refer to it as the 'Body')
1/4" Male NPT plug
1/4" Female NPT x 3/16" hose barb
1/4" Male NPT x 3/16" hose barb
5/16"-18 x 1 1/2" SHCS (I'll refer to it as a 'Bolt') (I actually purchased mine from Peaks)
5/16-18 Jam Nut (I actually purchased mine from Peaks)
1/4" dia ball bearing (I actually purchased mine from Peaks)
Spring ~ 1.69" lg x 3/16" dia

this is how it is assembled



i still have to get the 1/4" male plug tapped 5/16-18 for the bolt...

ut it works pretty simple, you increase the tension on the spring by turning the bolt clockwise/righty-tighty, this increases presure on the ball bearing through the spring, that means more boost will be needed to move the ball bearing up and allow the boost signal to reach the wastegate...

you just got to make sure that with the sring all the way expanded your wastetgate functions as normal, openeing at its normal boost level/spring rate, and when you turn the screw in small incriments, you increase the ppresure on the ball bearing, raising the boost,

i'll be testing it once i get it tapped and ready and will post pics of mine assembled and installed.

check out the link for more information.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 4:11 pm
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yea a mechanic did tell me about that, i was going to try it this week Cool
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RS200
3NE 2NR Power Seller


Joined: 24 Apr 2003
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My 2NRide: Toyota Altezza

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 4:29 pm
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mine should be working by this evening... i'll try it our briefly to about 11psi or so, i cant use it over that till i get the car on the dyno...
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InDeForest
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 4:32 pm
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Oh i love it, i woulda done this if id seen it months ago. Hell i might still do it for kicks.
Actually, why does he have it between the actuator and BOV why not between the compressor nipple and actuator.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 6:22 pm
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CA19, lemme no how it works, i wont mind making one tommorow and trying it out right away or so, and have boost raise ready for sunday lol....but a mechanic tell me it have one where you get this knob thingy yuh connect a line to and out and yuh could manually set it inside the car
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X2
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 6:49 pm
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I'll tell ya how it works... not reliably..hehehe

I built one like that a while back (similar)... tried it... spiked from 12 all the way to 17psi and I had a heartattack.... thank god I was running a built motor at the time !

I haven't found a good BC on the market yet... my turbo XS MBC did the same shift and my buddy's greddy EBC spikes too... lorse. Maybe this one will hold low boost well ? Good luck meng... keep us up to date if you try it.

**Edit... read the whole link... not the very same one I built... but I still fraid MBC's nonetheless... Laughing
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RS200
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:54 am
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i didn't hook it up yet as LP Marince is completing the work for me today (tapping and drilling the plug)

Quote:

**Edit... read the whole link... not the very same one I built... but I still fraid MBC's nonetheless...


i hate tham as i said before - but i have seen this one get REALLY good reviews (for a MBC at least) and it is a copy of the one www.boostcontroller.com sells, which has gotten the best reviews - but all this, on low boost (none of the reviews were at 20+ psi - but at that level boost - you should be using electric soleniods)

- i too have a fully forged built motor (Crower and JE) so a small spike will be forgivable, but anything over 3psi and this thing is in the dumpster,i am using this for LOW BOOST - as in under 16psi..


i had a Blitz SSBC that never spiked, gave rock SOLID low and high setings and this was the one with the sinlge soleniod, had adjustable gain and overboost controll, both controlling the speed that boost builds - sold that to a WRX friend of mine and it works great, no spikes

the dual solenoid EBC's are even better.. I am getting a GReddy Profec B II thats the cat's pajamas.. rock solid boost controll and the best in the Nissan Enthusiast Communities...

its' all in how you install it and tune it. (setting gain etc)

Quote:

but a mechanic tell me it have one where you get this knob thingy yuh connect a line to and out and yuh could manually set it inside the car


this could work with this, but the problem wiht that is, with Manual Boost Controllers (MBC's) the longer the line used between the compressor and actuator/wastegate the more spiking and more lag.... GReddy has a in car MBC and has spiking problems caue i takes too long for the boost signal to reach the valve, then for thte signal to reach to the wastegate, by then a few psi of boost has krept by, causing a spike.

Quote:

Actually, why does he have it between the actuator and BOV why not between the compressor nipple and actuator.



thats jsut how they did it, they are pulling BOV sagnal from there... i am using it directly between the compressor and the wastegate... only about 6" of hose between the two...

there is a bleeder hole in their instructions that i am not too sure about, i'll be trying it with and without it to see how that helps out spiking and accuracy.
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InDeForest
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 2:08 pm
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Well I was thinking about this some more, and figured the bleed hole can have an effect on spiking, when the ball opens and the air rushing by, on its way to the actuator, bleeds out the hole, this lost air is whats causeing the actuator to open at later boost than its internal spring pressure, if its too big , youre gonna need more compressor boost put the same pressure on the actuator.
My point is anyway, that you could also change the size of the bleeder hole, if you think its too big, put a drop of solder on the mouth of it and you can smear in a smaller hole, if you know solder you what i mean.
Other thing i thought about is how well that ball bearing seals inside that barb fitting, gotta be snug
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ninjaboost
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 2:29 pm
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I have a few concerns......... cant wait to hear the results............

I too have made MBC's (the fellars who were at the dyno when I tested my car will confirm) and my last one which is somewhat similar to this, hardly spikes sometimes 1 or 2psi max..... and I could live with that Mr. Green

ps. it only spikes when I try to run more than 15psi and it cost me around TT$100
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nash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 2:49 pm
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I like the idea there,goes to show how much can be done at home !!! Idea
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RS200
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 3:47 pm
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well it worked... Very Happy

worked ok too, took me two trips up and down the main road, set to 12psi, no spiking, it slowly raises to 12psi and i can hear the wastegate open at about 9psi or so which is the regular wastegate setting/spring.

but after getting silly with a lil more boost in the rain - i head a exhast leak, the bolts on the manifold->turbo rattled loose, gotta wait for the car to cool, re-tighten them, drive home, put on the mech gloves and tighten them while they are hot... i think i'll use some lock-tight this time, and a breaker bar Twisted Evil
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RS200
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 3:49 pm
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total cost was about $80 TT for everything Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:27 pm
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sweeeeet
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Toysport
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 5:11 pm
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Sticky please?
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speed demon
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 5:32 pm
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brilliant god damn so what the 2400 was for please explain cause i dont know
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Quicksilver
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:53 pm
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I played with a couple setups like this..... the one on the car right now cost me TT$12 Laughing .... the 'ball bearing' type is more effective than the cheaper bleed type though.
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Quicksilver
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:54 pm
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delete
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ninjaboost
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 8:58 am
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Quote:
there is a bleeder hole in their instructions that i am not too sure about, i'll be trying it with and without it to see how that helps out spiking and accuracy.


was your test done with the bleeder hole?
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RS200
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:06 pm
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Quote:

was your test done with the bleeder hole?


without, but remember i have not crossed 12psi. i will be runnning allot more boost
next week tuesday when i go to the dyno... i'll see how it holds up then, (and will carry my drill and 1/32" bit to drill the hole if it starts spiking and creeping)

i also used the second ball bearing between the spring and bolt to stop the spring from binding on the bolt, it also make the adjustment have a nicer "sweet spot" Razz

Quote:

so what the 2400 was for please explain cause i dont know


~$2400 TT for a GReddy Profec B II electronic boost controller, allows in-car adjustability, high and low setting (as well as off for stock Wg setting), fuzzy logic, gain and overboost controll etc etc... the best (IMO) boost controller on the market.



right nowe my biggest problem is finding a way to secure it to the car so it dosent vibrate and rattle around. i was even thinking of screwing it directly to the boost port on hte compressor...
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InDeForest
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 5:57 am
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Ahh, how could I have forgotten to compare it to this.
http://www.dawesdevices.com/boost.html
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