CS Lancer!

idlemind · Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:21 pm Post subject:

yep...if i can get my contact in FL to pop out the glass alone for me das better fete

ZeroOne · Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:31 pm Post subject:

venum · Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 8:05 pm Post subject:

That oil in the GDI will work better that great

TURBOT u like a flecking lawyer with all them clarifications needed, I feelin like in a commision of enquiry

Reminds me of me . . .

I used the semi-synthetic back then as I was a poor fella in those days, couldn't afford the good stuff, if I had to I would have, but I tried the semi-synth first to see if it would have worked before going to the full synth and it did, my pocket was grateful that it did

For your mild tappet knock case, the full synth mobil1 or shell or castrol or Amsoil or valvoline or chevron or redline or royal purple or whatevr suppose to work

nes123,
Amsoil is highly rated, but I find supply to be too inconsistent to commit to (yes there are powersellers and a few places sellin) but I want to use an oil that I can readily find in MOST parts places whenever I need over the long term

I dont drink alco so LLB or Green Sands is just fine for me

And I avoid aspartme as much as I can

ZeroOne · Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:00 pm Post subject:

ALL HAIL venum, Laughing

TURBOT · Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:36 pm Post subject:

venum,huh who me? lol

and i read that we dont need 5w 50 oil or oils with such varying bodies due to our climate...........the temps dont vary much so we do not need oils with so many additives which allow for such a broad body spectrum.....i think anything less than a 20-30 point variance is the better ones to use..

venum · Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 11:08 pm Post subject:

You are right about the temp range of the oil in our climate.

A 20w should be fine in the tropics

But the additives - no

The additives is what increases the quality of the oil and the response/long term performance of the engine

All oils have additives, even good ole Castrol GTX 20W 50, but we know how late generation mitsu engines perform when this oil is used

Rwd box lancer engine (4G12, 12V sohc i think) will work fine with it, but not a 2002 4g94 GDI or 4G18

All Shell oils locally are made from a NP base oil (of a certain contractual specification) and Shell's own additives (which are blended in after)

So there is plain mineral 20W 50 yellow bottle Helix that has additives, different additives to the Castrol GTX, which will have the same effect as the GTX, mention above.

There is also semi-synthetic 15W 40 blue bottle Helix Plus and full-synthetic 5W 50 grey can Helix Ultra which contain different additives than the yellow can Helix, but have an entirely different effect on the engine - why is that?

What is different?

The different body spectrum and the additives

The different body spectrum may not account for the different engine performance (although I believe that it does), but the additives sure do

Oil is not oil

They all do the same damn thing at the end of the day, but the way they do it and the other things they do while doing it is what is responsible for the differnt engine performance

turbo_beast369 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:16 am Post subject:

venum yuh have meh confused now lol....

so the oil to use in a 4G18 is either Mobile One 5w 50 Full Synthetic OR Shell Helix Ultra 5w 50 Full Synthetic?? I just wanna get rid of my Castrol GTX 20W 50....

venum · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:40 am Post subject:

turbo_beast369 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:24 am Post subject:

venum wrote

venum · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:49 pm Post subject:

^^^that is because some air bypassing teh filter

filter not sealing

never had that problem

u sure u got a AS-1047 Question

turbo_beast369 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:27 pm Post subject:

yeah I know that air bypassing the filter.....as i said i tried puttin some grey silicone on d air box housing in an attempt to fully seal it off...

its says exactly this on my filter box: Sakura A-1047 NOT AS-1047

venum · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:58 pm Post subject:

when u say it was not sealing, I assume it was too thing for the airbix to properly close

the filter is rectangular, so it can only fit one way

also, does your filter have a rubber seal around it Question

TURBOT · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:19 pm Post subject:

I have the same prob with my filter...... it is a tad too small.... Using it like that for the while till I get a dropin k&n

idlemind · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:09 pm Post subject:

allyuh eh want a lifetime of use from a K&N Question

the Drop-In Filter # is 33-2105

its fits snug, forward and in place is its only natural way.
if u cant clean it on time it can simply turn upside down and the air dam hits the cleaner corner of the correct side always....what is this thing about Sakura yo Question

ronsin1 · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:21 pm Post subject:

fras · Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 6:30 pm Post subject:

idlemind did u find out what seal the other part# was for?

idlemind · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:11 am Post subject:

errrr....what Question

venum · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:22 am Post subject:

Yeah ronsin is rite,

There are 2 filters, a thin one and a thicker one. We both buy from the same parts place and the parts guy mentioned something about this a while ago.

But I am not sure if they both carry the 1047 number

I use the same one that the CK lancers use

turbo_beast369 · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:21 pm Post subject: