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changing plugs tomorow which ones to buy
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mikeae91
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:07 pm
   Post subject: changing plugs tomorow which ones to buy
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yeah guys wanna do i tune up tomorrow what plugs to buy and price.

4age 20v st
and whats the best way to clean my injectors

whats are the belt #'s
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:25 pm
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can go iridium heat range 6 they cost between $240 and $320 depending on where you shop, belts are 5pk 1050 and 5pk850, timing belt is 111 teeth, you doing the injector cleaning yourself?
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mikeae91
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:27 pm
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how u mean take them out or open throttle and sray inside with car cleaner,gumsolve
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:35 pm
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spraying any kind of cleaner into the fully assembled unit would be moot owing to the positioning of the trumpets, better to open the air box ( part labeled 4 throttle) with a hex key, remove the trumpets (10 socket) note the order i.e blacks on the outside brown on the inside, wash the trumpets with soap and water and let dry, wipe the bottom half of the airbox with a cloth and spray some Bars into each ITB while they're closed let it soak, then open them and spray the Bar's in each cleaning out the gunk, also remove the piping that connects the AFM to the airbox and clean it too as it may have some blow-by oil caused by high revs esp if you don't have a catch can or filter on the crankcase breather
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:39 pm
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As for the injectors you can have them cleaned by a mech or if you're technically inclined you can remove them, remove the 4 rubber gaskets off them (gently) and then spray and soak the injectors in Bars/ carb cleaner for at least a half hour

if you're cheap or unsure, just dump a bottle of redline in a half tank of premium and go for a highway blowout


Last edited by eliteauto on Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TRDcorolla
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:39 pm
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dont mean to spam, but this is what the toyota room is for, props to you cl101


carry on
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mikeae91
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 10:43 pm
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thanks man i think i'll do the highway blowout as i'm unsure about the injector takinh out. as for the thrumpets i already took out mines someone said it wudda make me go faster but i guess it just made me burn more gas i think.... leh me know ok.
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D3monic
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:36 pm
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Good info. i studying to do this weekend........ Mr. Green
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 5:52 am
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mikeae91, now lemme stress here that what I'm about to type is my opinion and is subject to correction by any of the guys more familiar with modding the ST.

In my opinion the removal of the trumpets would not net you any gains, I'm saying this based on the way the trumpets are positioned
Click for full-size.


it seems that they are curved to allow air entering the box to reach the furthest ITB/Cylinder first and then the subsequent ones from left to right, considering the immense vacuuming force that those throttles have when opened, I'd suspect having no trumpets there would result in the left-most cylinder being starved for air by comparison with the right-most one, increasing the possibility of leaning out cylinder 1
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toyotajumbie
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 6:16 am
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mikeae91 wrote:
thanks man i think i'll do the highway blowout as i'm unsure about the injector takinh out. as for the thrumpets i already took out mines someone said it wudda make me go faster but i guess it just made me burn more gas i think.... leh me know ok.
Now I just enquiring here eh........ If you remove the air intake box on a 20V silver top to expose the trumpets in the hopes of gaining a better flow of air in an attempt to gain more power, what do you connect the Air Flow Sensor to?
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:30 am
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toyotajumbie, I feel he just took the trumpets out the airbox and closed it back
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:07 pm
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to clean injectors , i get a chopped injector harness, and gumsolve.
remove injectors, remove rubber seals, plugin d harness with 2 extending wires to pulse on the battery , make sure u know who is positive and negitive, get someone to spray gumsolve at the top of the injector while u hold down the POSITIVE WHILE U PULSE THE NEGITIVE to simulate an injector pulse ...if the injector clogged u just have to continue sprayin and PULSING till it blows free Usually in around 20 seconds....wipe up and in stall ur seals back and u good.. this method work great for me jus be careful not to damage the meshin in the injector while u sprayin d gumsolve
#Fade in
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A172
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:22 pm
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haydn28 wrote:
to clean injectors , i get a chopped injector harness, and gumsolve.
remove injectors, remove rubber seals, plugin d harness with 2 extending wires to pulse on the battery , make sure u know who is positive and negitive, get someone to spray gumsolve at the top of the injector while u hold down the POSITIVE WHILE U PULSE THE NEGITIVE to simulate an injector pulse ...if the injector clogged u just have to continue sprayin and PULSING till it blows free Usually in around 20 seconds....wipe up and in stall ur seals back and u good.. this method work great for me jus be careful not to damage the meshin in the injector while u sprayin d gumsolve
#Fade in


x2

works well IMO
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:22 pm
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haydn28, the 20v injectors are side feed
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Zeriam
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:28 pm
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haydn28 wrote:
to clean injectors , i get a chopped injector harness, and gumsolve.
remove injectors, remove rubber seals, plugin d harness with 2 extending wires to pulse on the battery , make sure u know who is positive and negitive, get someone to spray gumsolve at the top of the injector while u hold down the POSITIVE WHILE U PULSE THE NEGITIVE to simulate an injector pulse ...if the injector clogged u just have to continue sprayin and PULSING till it blows free Usually in around 20 seconds....wipe up and in stall ur seals back and u good.. this method work great for me jus be careful not to damage the meshin in the injector while u sprayin d gumsolve
#Fade in
i do the same as well. 1 additional thing is i soak the injectors for a short while for the dried up bits to get loose.
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:31 pm
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Cl101 i know dat i said to spray from the part that goes in to the rail Neutral
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:37 pm
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it dont work well when u try to spray BACK up the injector , spray to allow natural injector flow , another method i workin on is to aquire an additional rail use a speare pump to pump gumsolve to the rail with old seals init from a container and pulse the injectors one by one , this shud give ah bess clean as the infectors will be under pressure with gumsolve flowing through it Idea
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:00 pm
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^^ that would work well
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:08 pm
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also using super will clog ur injectors faster and get coat ur tank with red sheit from its dye soo use it at ur discretion guys, ur 20v were made to run on 100 octane RON gasoline so a management like emanage blue is a good investment to get ur cars running well and make power, as it can trim and add fuel and timing also datalog ur cars sensors so u can actuall SEE and not GUESS what is happening , jus make sure u go by a tuner who knows toyota and tunes dem regularly WITH a GOOD wide band not d mango tree tuners i does be hearing bout,

emanage ultimate $5200 FREE install and road tune Mr. Green
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eliteauto
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:13 pm
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haydn28, how does the emanage circumvent the self-learning ways of the 20V ecu? Which on most piggybacks tends to revert back to factory settings
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:30 pm
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Cl101 it doesent , what i experience personally is AFR changes on my wide band and i datalog different timing values to the ones ti tuned (but not badly different) around 2 weeks to 3 weeks and the car pulls slower so all i do is RELOAD the stored map i tuned from my laptop on the emanage and Walllahh!

if u go emanage i will jus tune u conservitively to compensate for this effect or if u have a Pc and no laptop jus get a long Printer cable to connect from ur pc to car and do it like me Smile if u like d extra performance,,
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Hook
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:45 pm
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so every few weeks u hafta load stored fuel and ignition maps to compensate for the self-learning ECU?

there's no "set it and forget it" solution?
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:56 pm
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... even if ur ecu wasent self learning ur engine is ever wearing , volumetric efficiency is ever changing, an engine NEVER stays the same try dynoing an engine 3 times over 3 days and see if u get the same torque curve each time...., so before i race I always RETUNE my map, to get MAXIMUM power and d best powerband out of my engine, for normal application ....is a map reload too much to do? is 2 minuets of your time too much to ask for?,, for set it and forget it , go stand alone like MICROTECH, which is what i doing , but still a regular tune wudn't hurt #Fade in MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE is my motto
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A172
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 3:27 pm
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but even if you use say, the Microtech LT8, even though yuh might get a 'set it and forget it' map/tune....wouldn't that be a whole lot more effort to work it up to get similar or just slightly more gains that the emanage?

just wondering Neutral
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haydn28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:20 pm
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A172 wrote:
but even if you use say, the Microtech LT8, even though yuh might get a 'set it and forget it' map/tune....wouldn't that be a whole lot more effort to work it up to get similar or just slightly more gains that the emanage?

just wondering Neutral



stand alone ems is real wuk to set up no question bout it , as YOU the tuner must now create a base map to run the engine and apply OEM like configurations to the ems like water temp enrichment, air temp enrichment etc, before u can actually get to the meat of the tuning . compared to a piggy back where u install , and tune the stock ecu which already has air /water temp enrichment , knock retard etc., really the piggy back like d emanage ultimate is very close to a stand alone and is great for tuning, and i think it depends on what a person wants out of an engine,
personally i want total control over EVERY engine parameter , which a piggy back can't do so is MICROTECH LT8S is 4 me....shinakuma is the man to tune this ems for u all if any one decides to go this way Idea
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mikeae91
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 11:36 pm
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i changed plugs and cleaned the itb's its pulling gr8 but now the car isidling at 2000 rpm when i take out the air hose that goes to the step up it idles good but when i turn on ac the step up doesnt come on..

any ideas how to solve
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firehead..
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:24 am
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i havin d same problem to...but it not ideling soooo high...mine is @ 1000rpm....it also started happenin after i cleaned my intake as well jus two weeks back....u gettin ah hissing noise to when u mash d gas or at idel?
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Hook
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:10 am
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haydn28 wrote:
... even if ur ecu wasent self learning ur engine is ever wearing , volumetric efficiency is ever changing, an engine NEVER stays the same try dynoing an engine 3 times over 3 days and see if u get the same torque curve each time...., so before i race I always RETUNE my map, to get MAXIMUM power and d best powerband out of my engine, for normal application ....is a map reload too much to do? is 2 minuets of your time too much to ask for?,, for set it and forget it , go stand alone like MICROTECH, which is what i doing , but still a regular tune wudn't hurt #Fade in MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE is my motto


While that's a worthwhile motto u got there, do u seriously mean that every 3wks your engine wears enough to cause such a drastic change in volumetric efficiency that u MUST reload maps?
At that rate, u must be rebuilding the thing at every oil change!

But it can't be the same setting you're reverting to if the engine condition has changed that significantly enough to warrant it, so u MUST be completely re-tuning every 3 weeks, right? Performance fuel and ignition maps for a newer engine being used on an old worn engine? Surely you jest!

haydn28 wrote:
try dynoing an engine 3 times over 3 days and see if u get the same torque curve each time


try getting exactly the same atmospheric conditions (barometric pressure, air temp, humidity) 3 times over 3 days FIRST, before you see if you can get the same torque curve each time Laughing
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firehead..
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:26 am
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i havin d same problem to...but it not ideling soooo high...mine is @ 1000rpm....it also started happenin after i cleaned my intake as well jus two weeks back....u gettin ah hissing noise to when u mash d gas or at idel?
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Hook
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:37 am
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did y'all reset the ECU?

cuz when mine is reset it idles at like 1500rpm for a bit but it comes down to normal gradually
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