can you run 2 different size alternators

[spam]

can you run 2 different size and brand alternators together ?

for example if i take 2 similar alternators and i think series them i get 1 bigger alternator 2 110 = 1 big 220

can i do that wit a 300 from one brand and a 220 from another brand ?

[noyztoyz]

yes u can

[SR]

[noyztoyz]

ive seen it done before, a friend had a stock 100 and a stinger 220 and it worked well.
My alternator boss told me yes i could run a 300 and a 350 together as well and thats my next upgrade.

Im thinking it should work fine once both alternators are externally regulated or internally regulated and not one of each.
When current is pulled, car voltage drops, voltage regulator will increase the field current in the stator of both alternators and both would increase output.
I dont see why it shouldn't work.
If i am missing/ignoring something please elucidate.

[infinite_RPM]

[noyztoyz]

yea its impractical to run them in series, he means parallel im sure.
i didnt agree on that series part like how you so carefully highlighted up there lol

[bargin boi]

DONT KNOW IF DIS WUD HELP U..JUS TRYIN

made some posts last year trying to get input on installing a second alternator - on a 2000 PSD. I got some great feedback and completed a successful installation last night. I worked very hard with my test meter and did a ...... shall we call it custom use set up, rather than placing faith in the PCM. Here are the highlights.

1) New factory (2nd) alternator purchased off eBay for .... $60 from an ambulance conversion company that takes them off new.

2) The factory second alternator bracket is readily available from Ford. F8TZ*10A313*AA. You need to specify the "passenger side". Althought the brackets are the same part number, they are definitely not the same bracket. $130.45

3) You need an additional idler pulley that bolts into the new bracket. F8TZ*8678*FA. $20.48

4) You need three replacement bolts. Two of which will replace existing bolts (shorter ones.) that fit into the a/c mounting bracket. The other one replaces a bolt (shorter one.) that fits into the front of the engine block. It holds down the main groundng cable on the back side, and holds the tranmission cooler and wiring set on the front side. N606068-s100 (x2) and W701844-s309 (x1). The nut on the latter bolt is reusable.

5) You need three alternator bolts. These are the same as the bracket hold down bolts. N606068-s100.

6) I was sold a wiring harness that was designed for the original 110 amp alternator that Ford offers in the dual optional alternator set up. The plug is not the same if you get the standard PSD alternator. These are AMP brand connectors and the plug pins can be released and snapped into the other plug. When I got my alternator from eBay, it had the factory plug and about 3 inches of each wire. You may need the plug. The color coding is not correct either, but you're only dealing with three wires....... deal with it. F81Z*14305*CA $45.97

7) Finally, you'll need a new serpentine belt. Dual alternator option. JK8*1381* $66.18.

Installation took about 3 hours and was made easier by removing the top idler pulley (blocks one of the mounting bolt locations.) and by removing the serpentine belt. (Blocks everything). After carefully studying several different wiring schematics, and noting that they are all different, I made the connections by bolting the main output wire to the fusable link on the passenger side where the other alternator and both batteries already connected. I connected my ignition wire (orange/lt. blue) wire to ignition connection of the #1 alternator.

The exciter control wire (Light green/red) is supposed to connect to the PCM. I have been over the truck 100 times with Ford techs and other thinktanks and I cannot find the connection place. However, during the testing of the second alternator at idle speed and under varying loads, I deceided that a manual control switch was going to be sufficient. I already had an Isspro volt/ammeter set up, and found that use of the second alternator holds that volt meter steady at 14.8 volts....... high beams, a/c, and 16 - 55 watt off road lights.

Although not thinking is an easier way to operate, the manual alternator control will force me to monitor electrical loads. Through testing at different points, I have concluded that the built in voltage regulators on these Motorcraft alternators work very well. There is no bouncing or spiking of voltage, and they seem to load share almost too perfectly. Keep in mind, I am running 2 140 amp alternators. Not the 110 amp units that Ford uses on the factory dual set up.

Always happy to have more input. Pictures will be taken and made available on request. Thanks to those of you who gave input last year. So far I couldn't be happier





FOUND DIS ON GOOGLE ... POSTIN 2 SEE IF DIS WUD HELP YOU


LINK IS AS FOLLOWS : http://www.ford-trucks.com/...r-install-successful.html

[theblitz]

I was recently reading about a dual alt kit setup (some american model) that specifically said not to install both alternators to share charging duties, i.e. on the same load. That kit allowed your stock alt to do its normal job and the second alt to be used primarily for a second battery not connected to the first at all.

Seeing that they had that as a warning I was a bit concerned. If there's a way to do it onto one system I'd like to know.