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4G15 tuning and related info
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
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My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:15 pm
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^^^ don't think bout it too much

I had considered it, but it isn't worth it

now mind you, I am not saying that it is impossible

it's been done time and time again

but the implications of doing it are too much $$$

the average boost that can be obtained ~ 8 psi

give and take a little too

the ECU gonna have to live off a piggyback

the stock injectors would not be of too much use either

lets not forget about the pistons and the rings

spark plugs gonna need an upgrade, but thaz like the easiest part of teh turbo proj

then you have to consider fuel mods - fuel pump (prob external)

the stock ignition would suffice

but the reliabilty of the engine then decreases significantly

not even mention a tranny\gerabox to take that power

F4A41 just not gonna hold out too long

and

leave it as N/A

a turbo on this baby would definately be a nice project, but the practicality of it would be almost nil - as yuh gonna kill a great daily driver
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
Tech posts: 3019
Location: San Fernando
My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:31 pm
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^^^ thanx Dave, for your take on it in that PM

I will be doing some more investigating

need to talk to meh mechanic and consult some other resources along with Dave

will inform when I have more info
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Dave
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Joined: 22 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:12 pm
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would love to see it done and check me, i would help u put it together Wink
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
Tech posts: 3019
Location: San Fernando
My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:26 pm
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Question:

Do all turbo engines need a turbo timer?

what exactly is it's purpose?

cuz stock turbos do not have them
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blazing
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Joined: 10 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:00 am
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turbo timers leave the engine running while you go about your business. it cools the oil and extends the life of the turbo. it is not necessary but recomended.
the alternative is to just leave your car idling for 3 mins or so after a long/hard drive.

Quote:

I had considered it, but it isn't worth it


consider it again, cause it is worth it. Laughing
this isnt a civic engine you know
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kerron01
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:25 am
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true^^^ Laughing
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
Tech posts: 3019
Location: San Fernando
My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal

PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:44 pm
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[quote="blazing"]turbo timers leave the engine running while you go about your business. it cools the oil and extends the life of the turbo. it is not necessary but recomended.
the alternative is to just leave your car idling for 3 mins or so after a long/hard drive.
Quote:


thanx for the info

[quote="blazing"]consider it again, cause it is worth it. Laughing
this isnt a civic engine you know


I did re-consider

as indicated in one of my previous posts, I need to get more info

but you're right - 4G15 ent no civic engine - It's a Bishi engine

so I am still considering - no final decisions made yet
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
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My 2NRide: Mitsubishi L200 Animal

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:44 pm
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Some of my research to date:

Exhaust manifold - have it made or modify one to take the Turbocharger - need options of a manifold here

swap the throttle body for a bigger bore Throttle body - not absolutely necessary, but a larger TB would produce a better result

Stock intake manifold can work back

swap the fuel injectors for higher volume injectors - No two ways bout this.
need figures, I do not know what is the specs of the stock injectors either.


Change pistons and piston rings - need pistons that can better take the power. Forged piston is the best for higher boost and durability. To reduce teh compression ratio, use higher thickness gasket.

Valves - stock will work

Oil for engine and turbocharger - research inconclusive yet

Increase the diameter of the downpipe and install a free flow exhaust muffler to accomodate an increase in exhaust flow


Engine head - Dave suggests that the DOHC would be weak and might crack - need some options here

ECU - dave suggests that the stock would work, other research indicated a SAFC or E-Manage for better fuel management

Intercooler - FMIC is better suited due to the ease of installation and fit due to engine bay design than a TMIC

Turbocharger - size inconclusive to date

Boost Gauge - not investigated yet

O2 sensor - not investigated yet

also need to consider the down time of the car

what about parts availability?
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RA40-GTE
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:58 pm
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venum wrote:
Some of my research to date:

Exhaust manifold - have it made or modify one to take the Turbocharger - need options of a manifold here

swap the throttle body for a bigger bore Throttle body - not absolutely necessary, but a larger TB would produce a better result



If you find anyone custom fitting the "flange" for the manifold for the turbo, let me know...
i'm trying to figure out how this would be done on the v6, as both sets of pipes meet to the bottom of the engine, and i dont want the turbo to be mounted that low.

cant the 4g92/93 TB work on the 4g15 ... i think it could, and its a bigger bore (52mm ?) correct me if i'm wrong
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Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:05 pm
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oh gosh man, u want a w2j build
just get some fuel control via a SAFC and a manifold, turbo and a small intercooler and enjoy yourself
you could just lower the compression in the head and even that is not totally necessary

once u get a turbo, you can make the manifold from there
i would figure once u have all items and its just a matter if installation then around 2days max
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Rudman
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:09 pm
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Let me save U some work here. A decent Autometer boost guage (20 psi) and an A/F guage with a mounting A pillar pod will set U back $1000 at least.

Man gorne clear yes..........he turboing the 4G15...... Shocked Shocked Shocked

Aye pallie, U not running automatic with that setup right? I ent see U factoring a manual gearbox, competition clutch, clutch and brake pedals, cutting the firewall, etc, etc........

All this is additional downtime for the car. And prepare for the myraid of unforseen small parts U go have to be running down. U have a ride to work man?
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RA40-GTE
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:11 pm
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dave, a question...
how much boost can the engine take safely on stock internals and intercooler?
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Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:17 pm
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on the sohc carbed 4g15 in the c62 i put 9lbs max and then the water pump gave
the newer ones were not as strong as the older ones, the castings were weaker esp the ports between the head and were known for cracking even with normal use
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RA40-GTE
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:20 pm
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^^gracias senor..
i have more questions , but tomorrow for that.. Laughing
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Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:24 pm
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no probs meng Wink
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Mitsu power
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:26 pm
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there is aftermartket high flow intake manifold that comes down with these engines saw a couple of them on startlet engines as well. its mandral bent aluminum pipes that is connected to a collector that the T/B is attached to if you could get one it may greatly help your results.
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:15 pm
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Dave wrote:
oh gosh man, u want a w2j build
just get some fuel control via a SAFC and a manifold, turbo and a small intercooler and enjoy yourself
you could just lower the compression in the head and even that is not totally necessary

once u get a turbo, you can make the manifold from there
i would figure once u have all items and its just a matter if installation then around 2days max


yuh making it sound too easy Dave

was this all that you used on your application?

correct me if I am wrong and be as critical as you want, I welcome this from a knowledgeable 2nr as yourself

hear it, the setup that you describe would be using the stock pistons and rings, injectors

how would these hold out against low to mid levels of boost?

I would think that the application of boost would at least require some tougher pistons?

how would that affect the reliability of the engine as a daily driver?

I don't want to be seeing the mechanic every month

injectors?

the key factor of power that a turbo engine delivers is the amount of air in the cylinder, after all it's air that produces power

but with increased air an increased amount of fuel is needed to prevent burning lean and ultimately detonation, so stock injectors aided by a fuel management system should at the least be able to work

exhaust
you did not mention anything bout exhaust in your last post, why?

I really love acceleration more than top speed, so what do you think the effect of larger diameter down pipe would be on this setup

and for the tranny

As much as my left foot missing a clutch these days, puting a gearbox to this application would be nice, but this car is a daily driver and that gearbox would frustrate me, so its tranny for it

How do you think the stock F4A41 tranny would hold out?

this tranny is quite a robust lettle beyotch

the gear ratios are quite nice and I have no problems with it

do you think it can remain?

also the work of the installation of the gearbox (cutting firewall, installing pedals and shifters and all that especially wih my Mul-T-Lock setup) is just too much work

better buy a CM9A and done.
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blazing
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:07 pm
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Quote:

oh gosh man, u want a w2j build
just get some fuel control via a SAFC and a manifold, turbo and a small intercooler and enjoy yourself
you could just lower the compression in the head and even that is not totally necessary

once u get a turbo, you can make the manifold from there
i would figure once u have all items and its just a matter if installation then around 2days max


^^ditto

venum, with proper tuning you can hit 10-12 psi on those stocker internals. However for a daily driver it is maybe wise to go with 6-8psi.

4g15 injectors are 175cc i think, you NEED to upgrade to at least 210cc . 4g92 injectors are a direct fit and are rated at 210cc. However you should go with something 250cc up.

Also you need a new fuel pump and RRFPR, a walbro and aeromotive will do fine.

Exhaust needs a larger dump pipe and piping obviously as back pressure is the enemy of turbo cars. i say 2.25 or 2.25 will be good.

As for the Throttle body, the 1.8s come with a 50mm and the eclipse engines are 55mm and 60mm, compared to the 4g15's 45mms. All are direct bolt ups once you get the senors to match your current harnesses.

The tranny auto or manual, will hold up to the additional boost that you feed the engine unless you go past 15psi.

ECU-this is important. Get a SAFC or Emanage to control that stock ECU. This is pretty much the heart of your turbo car and you have to be a +%^&(*) if you think that the stock computer can manage the additional air and fuel coming into the engine.

For acceleration you will have to go with a smaller turbo like a t25, 13g, 14b, te04, or 13c.

Manifold- use your stock one and weld the flange on unless you have a good manifold builder with proper equipment (which i doubt) or alot of money to give to RPW.

Intercooler- a small side mount will be best. too large an intercooler will kill your boost and too small will not cool efficiently. FMICs are nice but not necessary and are usually too big.

Last but definately not least, your BRAKES AND SUSPENSION. No not simply putting EBC pads in the caliper. The brakes in the lancers are pretty sh!tty and is not safe for a turbocharged car. look to the eclipse for brakes.

there dont ask no more questions on those again Twisted Evil
Laughing
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venum
3NE2NR Diesel Boyz


Joined: 07 May 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:49 pm
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^^^ thanx man

thaz more than a mouthful

since yuh say not to ask no more questions bout that, I won't

bit I will ask this

average $$$ - hit meh a figure Mr. Green
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blazing
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:11 pm
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well it depends, but the basics are something like this:

ECU- E-manage and harnesses 2800 or SAFC - ??
Turbo - used 600-1200, new 1600 ++++
Manifold- flange and welding - 100
injectors - stock type 300+ - RC 1700 or so
SMIC - 300 - 600
gauges - at least 2- 600-1200
fuel pump - walbro - 900 / eclipse 400
RRFPR - 1000-1500
BOV - eclipse 300/ greddy 600 +
Air filter - 350 +
check valves for MAP- under 100
T-bolts and silicone couplers - 500
Gaskets, oil lines, colant lines, bolts and other misc things - 500+
Exhaust and intercooler piping - who you know
Proper Tuning - priceless

optional:
Throttle body - 500 to 800
catch can - 500+

then theres brakes and suspension to see about Exclamation
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