Tech Thread - Navara Specific

biggy82 · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 4:33 pm Post subject: Tech Thread - Navara Specific

ok peeps, post whatever good info you have on the Navara....most importantly, what problems you all have had and solutions.

Here is some basic maintenance info:

Engine Oil: Grade API-CF4 / ACEA B1, B3, B4, B5. do not use API-CG4. Volume required 7.6 L. API are not using the CF4 grading system again because the test is no longer available. CH4 is the recommended substitute. Viscosity 15W-40
Oil change interval 5000 kms mineral oil; 7500 - 10000 kms synthetic

Brake and Clutch Fluid: Grade DOT 3 or 4. Change interval 1 year or 20000 kms

Coolant: Grade Nissan coolant L250. Volume 10.2 L. Change interval 20000 kms. coolant is pre-mixed

Manual Transmission: Grade API-GL4. Viscosity 75W-85 or 75W-90. Change interval 30000 kms. Volume required 2WD: 3.99 L; 4WD: 4.32 L

Automatic Transmission Fluid: Grade ATF Matic Fluid-J. Change interval 40000 kms. Volume required 10.3 L

Transfer Case fluid: Grade Nissan ATF. Volume required 2 L. Change interval 30000 kms

Differential Oil: Grade: Standard gear: GearOil Hypoid LSD or API-GL5.
LSD gear: GearOil Hypoid LSD
Viscosity 80W-90. Change interval 30000 kms
Volume required: Front diff: 0.85 L; Rear diff: 2.01 L

Power Steering fluid: Grade Genuine Nissan PSF or Dexron 3 ATF. Change interval 30000 kms

Multi-purpose grease: NLGI #2

Please note that the change intervals stated here may be different from what you may see your owner's manual. the intervals are shorter to compensate for our country's ambient temperatureand road conditions

please feel free to post whatever info you have

biggy82 · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:55 pm Post subject:

I have had problems with my fuel system. it was at a well-known gas station close to a Major car Retailer which amplified my concerns per how sad the situation was Mr. Green

. i filled my tank my tank there and before it reached 3/4 tank, the van was bucking, heavy white smoke, no power etc.

had to drain and flush tank, pull and clean fuel rail, injectors and both primary and secondary filters. it did not affect the pump tho. total cost $2500

i have since installed this: http://www.algae-x.net/2/5/Fuel%20Conditioners.html

basically, it breaks up any agglomeration in the diesel so that it does not clog the filters or the injectors. plus it disperses water. i strongly recommend that this be installed in the Navara because the CR is very sensitive to bad diesel

Greypatch · Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:50 am Post subject:

Excellent start !!...

May I suggest you include the brands that are working for you with respect to the oil and brake fluids.

Members feel free to post questions and experiences (with fixes) so that we can all learn and not reinvent the wheel.

bleedingfreak · Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 3:41 pm Post subject:

Kudos to the Nissan Men. Allyuh really need this thread Wink

Hahahaha

Just kidding...

Biggy what is your mileage now?
And are you going to try out the Mobil1 Full Synthetic?
And why not use API-CG4 rated oils?

Patchie yuh get your van yet?

Navs seem to be the most susceptible to bad diesel...

Greypatch · Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 4:54 pm Post subject:

So Navaras are most prone to bad diesel...

Didthe water light come on ?

Besides Neal and Massey who else offers the Alge-X and price range...

We want to make the thread as informative as possible...

New Navara Owners (Junki, Aaron & others) Any problems with the fuel so far ?

have you all installed the Alge-X ?

biggy82 · Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 1:24 am Post subject:

biggy82 · Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 10:26 am Post subject:

biggy82 · Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 3:58 am Post subject:

Taken from the maintenance manual

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

General maintenance includes those items which should be checked during the normal day-to-day operation of the vehicle. They are essential if the vehicle is to continue operating properly. The owners can perform the checks and inspections themselves or they can have their NISSAN dealers do them for a nominal charge.

OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be performed from time to time, unless otherwise specified.

Tires: Check the pressure with a gauge periodically when at a service station, including the spare, and adjust to the specified pressure if necessary. Check carefully for damage, cuts or excessive wear.

Windshield wiper blades: Check for cracks or wear if not functioning correctly.

Doors and engine hood: Check that all doors, the engine hood, the trunk lid and back door operate properly. Also ensure that all latches lock securely. Lubricate if necessary. Make sure that the secondary latch keeps the hood from opening when the primary latch is released.
When driving in areas using road salt or other corrosive materials, check for lubrication frequently.

Tire rotation: Tires should be rotated every 10,000 km (6,000 miles) for 2WD models and every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) for 4WD models.

INSIDE THE VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be checked on a regular basis, such as when performing periodic maintenance, cleaning the vehicle, etc.

Lamps: Make sure that the headlamps, stop lamps, tail lamps, turn signal lamps, and other lamps are all operating properly and installed securely. Also check headlamp aim.

Warning lamps and chimes: Make sure that all warning lamps and buzzers/chimes are operating properly.

Steering wheel: Check that it has the specified play. Check for changes in the steering conditions, such as excessive free play, hard steering or strange noises.
Free play: Less than 35 mm (1.38 in)

Seat belts: Check that all parts of the seat belt system (e.g. buckles, anchors, adjusters and retractors) operate properly and smoothly, and are installed securely. Check the belt webbing for cuts, fraying, wear or damage.

UNDER THE HOOD AND VEHICLE
The maintenance items listed here should be checked periodically e.g. each time you check the engine oil or refuel.

Windshield washer fluid: Check that there is adequate fluid in the tank.

Engine coolant level: Check the coolant level when the engine is cold.

Engine oil level: Check the level after parking the vehicle (on level ground) and turning off the engine.

Brake and clutch fluid levels: Make sure that the brake and clutch fluid levels are between the “MAX” and “MIN” lines on the reservoir.

Battery Check the fluid level in each cell. It should be between the “MAX” and “MIN” lines.

Greypatch · Posted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:09 pm Post subject:

originalbling · Street 2NR Joined: 27 Sep 2004 Tech posts: 77 My 2NRide:

I am guessing that the Navaras are too new on the local market to hear about problems under local conditions or maybe even manufacturers defects with the models we get here?

If so then can anyone say what parts would normally need to be changed due to normal wear and tear/maintenance intervals and possible estimated prices?

navara boy · Joined: 19 Mar 2009 Tech posts: 0 My 2NRide:

so does the algea x work great and where on the van does it have to be installed

navara boy · Joined: 19 Mar 2009 Tech posts: 0 My 2NRide:

wat i wanted to know is the amsoil oil good for the navara and if what grade is good in full synthetic and wats the cost

GEAR_HEAD · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:47 pm Post subject:

^^^All Navara specific lubricants available in the AMSOIL brand. For more information & pricing please check - http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=230746
Wink

4X4 Trinidad · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 6:12 am Post subject:

Any one needing ALGEA-X , we are the official dealers in Trinidad for the Product .

Greypatch · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 6:30 am Post subject:

navara boy · Joined: 19 Mar 2009 Tech posts: 0 My 2NRide:

so biggy the amsoil is good but which grade can i use i am going to do a 10000 change soon and i want a full synthetic and it's availability must be good too.

biggy82 · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:29 pm Post subject:

4X4 Trinidad · Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:03 pm Post subject:

biggy82 · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:51 am Post subject:

If you own a vehicle with part time 4WD the need for different rpm front and rear represents a major problem. The transfer case will power the front and rear drive shafts with same rpm and is not able to satisfy the front axle's need for more rpm. Remember, the combined rpm of front wheels (A+B) is higher than the combined rpm of the rear wheels (C+D). Only full time 4WD systems are able to negotiate the needs of front and rear.

So, with part time 4WD engaged your front wheels are forced by good traction on the ground to rotate faster than the rear - but since the front drive shaft delivers only the same rpm as to the rear there is a fight between front wheels and rational force coming from the front drive shaft. The front drive shaft in effect tries to slow down the front wheels. This results in very wide turns (understeer) and dangerous handling on pavement.

The name "part time" derives from its use. It can only be used part of the time - most of the time (for most uses) it has to remain in 2WD. Only "full time" - notice the name - can be used full time for all uses.

The fight between front wheels and transfer case also makes 4WD performance suffer - the front wheels are not pulling like they should. They are in effect hindered by the front drive shaft.

The slowing effect caused by front wheels stresses all components between wheels and the transmission. It causes mechanical components to bind instead of moving freely - this situation is called "axle binding" ,"driveline binding" or "driveline wind up". First indicators while driving is a hard steering feel and the vehicle displaying jerky movement. Shifting back to 2WD will become impossible (gears and levers are extremely forced together). Continued 4WD use on dry surfaces will cause the weakest links to break (U-Joints, axles, differential gears, transfer case gears and chains, bearings, drive shafts).

When starting from a standstill with sharply turned wheels: The need for higher rpm in the front will most likely prevent you from getting started at all. If you step on the gas really hard (plus slipping your clutch) you might get the vehicle moving with spinning rear wheels but stress on all driveline components will be dangerously high. Chance is that you will break something.

When traveling with part time 4WD on high traction surfaces like asphalt, concrete, etc. handling of the vehicle will become unsafe (understeer) and the "driveline binding" will eventually cause component failures. Part time 4WD should not be used on high traction surfaces! Even when going straight most of the time, slight differences in tire pressure front to rear or vehicle load resulting in different axle speeds will cause "wind up" and eventually damage.

When traveling with part time 4WD on low traction surfaces like sand, gravel, mud, snow, etc. handling of the vehicle is unsafe (understeer) as well, but not as severe as on pavement. The slowed down front wheels simply skid a little on gravel, sand, snow, etc. during a turn. This in mind you should always approach difficult off-road obstacles in a straight line otherwise you might lose some of the much needed traction due to wheel slip on your front wheels.

Do not listen to guys who tell you it is OK to use part time 4WD on pavement! Severe damage will be the result.

Here is another important fact: Since front and rear axles are not able to rotate independently ABS will not work properly.

badart · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject:

^ good info,,,where;s a good place to use 4WD..somewhere not far?...i never really use my 4WD....jus test it out in a savannah